'Tamu' treat in Sabah

PENAMPANG: IT is cheaper to buy groceries from the weekly open markets, or tamu, in Sabah.

Most districts have a spot where tamu come to life for a day or two, featuring an array of products. They are where one can find vegetable sellers, medicine men, blacksmiths and craftsmen next to each other.

In Donggongon town here, the tamu, which comes under the district council’s purview, begins at 5pm on  Wednesdays and ends at the same time on Fridays. The sight of vehicles double-parked on the streets, people pushing trolleys, butchers heaving cleavers and women spraying water on bonsai plants tells of the vibrancy of the tamu.

Fresh produce is highly popular at any tamu, and at the one in Donggongon, the organic variety, as well as wild vegetables and traditional items, are the most sought-after.

“Vegetables and fish are sold at a lower price here compared with supermarkets,” said Nani Durahman, 43, from Inanam, Kota Kinabalu, adding that she set a budget of RM50 for fresh produce to feed her family of nine.

She also vouched for the freshness of the goods sold at the tamu.

Wild-caught mahseer (pelian or kelah), freshwater prawns (udang galah or insasangau), catfish (baung or patin) eels (lindung or belut) and carp (lampam jawa, gayomato or tabaus) are sold alongside cultured fish, such as tilapia, and are priced between RM15 and RM40 per kilogramme.

Several types of seafood are also sold live.

Nani said many housewives practised haggling at the tamu.

“I always haggle over the price, but usually, you can get produce at a lower price when the sellers are about to pack up.”

The rattling sound of coffee grinders, coupled with the aroma of coffee and the sight of colourful desserts, entice customers at the tamu.

Mechanic Justin Sunggil, 26, said he always made a beeline for the dessert section, where fresh hinompuka (steamed cake wrapped in banana leaf) and pinjaram (sweet fried cake made of rice flour) were sold for between 20 sen and 50 sen apiece.

He said there was also a “manly” section at the tamu, where tools, parang, cast nets and chainsaws were sold.

“You can buy a lot of things at the tamu, including potted plants, tobacco, handicrafts and medicinal plants.”

He said the “fear factor” items available were butod, or sago worms, and tumbakon, or sea worms.

“Nothing beats these items when it comes to luring or scaring people,” he said, adding that the presence of such items made the tamu unique.

Other popular tamu are those in Tamparuli and Membakut, which are open on Wednesdays; Telipok (Thursdays); Papar (Saturdays); and Kota Kinabalu Gaya Street, Kota Belud and  Tuaran (Sundays).