The luxe island getaway is slowly gaining traction with the cost-conscious. A slew of affordable lodgings have enabled more to enjoy idyllic beaches and also discover the essence of local life, writes Angela Goh
A DECADE ago, I could afford an air ticket to the Maldives but not the price of accommodation. The paradisiacal destination has eluded me until now.
More affordable lodgings having opened up in recent years, drawing an increasing number of beach-loving budget travellers to this archipelago of 1,190 islands (188 are inhabited by Maldivians while 122 consists of exclusive tourist resorts).
Since 2009, Maldivians could open their own guesthouses and hotels, and tourists were allowed to stay on public or inhabited islands such as Himmafushi and Guraidhoo, among the local population. Before this, tourists were restricted to luxury resorts on private islands through a “one island, one resort” philosophy. There was no alternative to the exclusive high-end proposition and this prohibitive cost has kept many budget travellers away.
Today, one of the lowest cost options is to stay in the capital Male, where lodgings are more affordable (rates start from US$50 (RM211) compared to US$500 per night at a luxury island) and pay less inflated prices for food at local restaurants (a plate of fried rice is US$15 compared to US$30 in resorts).
Hotels, guesthouses and tour operators can arrange all kinds of water sports and underwater activities, including islandhopping packages and daytrips to private island resorts.
An even less pricey alternative is to stay on Hulhumale (the island connected to the airport), where hotels cost less than in Male.
The upside to both places is that travellers get a taste of the “real” Maldives, mingling with the friendly locals.
MALE
Just under six square kilometres, the overcrowded city of about 75,000 (housing nearly 40 per cent of the country’s population) is one of the world’s smallest capitals. Colourful high rises mirror the casual, laidback feel of the tropical islandcity life.
Its culture and food display a rich amalgamation of regional influences of South and West Asia. The official language Dhivehi, for example is a derivative of Arabic, Sinhala, Urdu and Hindi. English is widely spoken.
Male’s grid-pattern layout makes for easy navigation among the warren of narrow, tidy streets and alleyways packed with neatly parked motorcycles.
Guide Ahmed Mujthba or Mujay says one of the best places to start is at Medhu Ziyaaraiy (Central Tomb), a manor-like building in navigational hues of whitewashed walls lined with blue. This is the resting place of Maulana Al-Hafiz Abul Barakaath Yoosuf Al-Barbari, a religious scholar from Morocco who converted the Maldivians to Islam in 1153. Before that, the people were Buddhists.
Across the street from the mausoleum is the quaint 17th century Old Friday Mosque built in 1656 (non-Muslims may enter with prior permission). Mujay takes me inside, where intricately carved Arabic writings and ornamental patterns adorn dark teakwood ceilings and doors. The exterior walls exhibit fascinating tactile refinement, being made of corals, moulded and shaped into exquisite patterns.
Equally fascinating is the main market, which bustles with chatty traders selling items ranging from raw edibles to electronics. At a fruit stall, I sample Maldivian coconut candy (similar to ours), pine nuts and the local stumpy, sweet banana.
Nearby, the fish market gets busy in the afternoons when fishermen bring in their catch of yellow fin tuna, jobfish, jackfish and barracuda, among others.
The market is divided into two sections. One side is where fish are sold while the other half is the fish cutting section. I am captivated by the large sizes and different types of fish, particularly the torpedo-like tuna. Noticing my close inspection of a barracuda, a friendly seller shows me the aggressive hunter’s sharp, nasty fang-like teeth, for tearing its prey apart.
At the cutting section, I watch in wonderment how these skilful fish-cutters, who clean and slice the fish for customers, perform with precise yet artful manoeuvres.
The shearing away of the yellow spiky fins of a metre long tuna is executed with the adroitness of a master craftsman.
One buyer tells me that an average sized tuna can feed his family of 15 for four days. The ubiquitous tuna is the staple of curries and salads, eaten with rice or the local bread “roshi”, resembling the chapati.
The guide takes me onto a fishing boat berthed at the harbour across the fish market. There, I meet the fishermen made up of relatives and friends whose families have been fishing for generations.
They tell me how they fish without using nets, which are outlawed in the country to keep fish stock sustainable. With hook and line in the ocean, they watch for dolphins, which are followed closely behind by shoals of tuna.
Another interesting feature is the names of houses stated on the front entrance. As an amusing side attraction, I walk curiously into lanes to read the names, which range from the mundane “Ever Bright”, the odd “Neutron” and intriguing “Merry Glory” to the eye-brow raising “Crony”.
HULHUMALE
This island is connected to the airport by a causeway and without having to contend with the relative vagaries of water transport, Hulhumale makes a more convenient transit base than Male, particularly for late arrivals and early departures.
This man-made island is built from a coral reef with land reclamation still ongoing.
Hulhumale is comparatively low density, spacious and less hemmed in than Male. There is a fully functioning township, complete with uniform-looking four storey buildings connected by wide tree-lined roads. However, buildings are still being constructed and the din of building works reverberate amid the sound of lapping waves.
Lodgings comprise small hotels and guesthouses (no international hotel brands as yet) and the rates are slightly lower than in Male.
I stay at a mid-range guesthouse for US$65 per night, with ensuite bathroom, air-conditioning, balcony, TV, tea-coffee making facility and complimentary airport transfers. Land being a precious commodity here, hotel rooms tend to be small and bathrooms can be a bit of a squeeze. Excursions can be booked from the hotel or directly from various tour operators.
One of them is Pro-Excursion Maldives, a small tour outfit along the beach at Hulhumale. It offers a wide range of day tours such as private island resort day trips from US$150 per person, tour of local island Himmafushi (from US$70) and its adventure package (island tour, snorkelling, sandbank, dolphin watching, from US$100).
A bridge linking Hulhumale and Male is being constructed and when completed, tourists will have a choice of navigating congested Male or roomy Hulhumale.
LOCAL ISLANDS
In the Maldivian context, “local” islands refer to those where Maldivians live and work, as opposed to private islands where luxurious resorts dominate.
Staying on local islands is another lowcost option with guesthouses costing on average US$50 a night and these islands are connected by public ferry.
According to Yaameen Yuusof, who co-owns Pro-Excursion Maldives, the price of day trips leaving from local islands are lower than those starting off from either Male or Hulhumale. “The distance to scenic locations for snorkelling and diving is shorter from these islands compared to Male and Hulhumale. As for sandbank experience, the sandbanks further away from Male are more attractive,” says Yaameen.
Such inhabited islands are functional and very low-key rather than designed for tourists and they share the same features. “All local islands look alike throughout the archipelago. The only slight difference is the water quality and type of beach, whether sandy or rocky”, says Yaameen, who guides me on a visit to Himmafushi.
But what these places lack in idyllic atmosphere they make up for with the warmth and friendliness of Maldivians.
Central for cultural exploration
HOTEL Jen Male offers the best accommodation in the Maldivian capital. Combining a friendly, welcoming style, the four-star hotel offers a superior level of comfort and standard of hospitality underscored by the Shangri-la brand.
The hotel is steps away from the jetty, which can be reached on foot, after a five-minute boat ride from the airport. Several top tourist attractions are just around the corner from the hotel while the rest are within walking distance.
The best part about Jen Male is that it offers an hour-long free tour (advance booking required), exploring the history and culture of the Maldives few have the opportunity to experience, apart from the typical island resort exposure.
Starting from 10am, the walking tour led by a licensed guide covers the major tourist sites, including the Old Friday Mosque, Medhu Ziyaaraiy (Central Tomb), Grand Friday Mosque, the main market, fish market and Republic Square.
DINING CHOICES
Meal choices include familiar regional staples ranging from our Malaysian fried rice and tom yam soup to western fare. All-day dining Lime restaurant on the second floor serves a good buffet spread as well as a la carte. The delicious Sri Lankan chicken curry is a must try.
Breakfast is a spread of Asian and western fare, including vegetarian, light and hearty helpings, for a well-balanced start for the day. The choices range from vegetable fried rice, beef stroganoff and wok fried vegetarian noodle to mixed vegetable clear soup and soft chicken pau (the bun texture is notches above most I have come across in Kuala Lumpur).
The view from Azur rooftop restaurant and bar is a pleasant panorama of the azure ocean and neighbouring islands. Together with the scenic view, I savour the delightful Sri Lankan seabass in spicy curry sauce, so fresh and succulent as if freshly harvested from the Indian Ocean.
TOUR PACKAGES
Jen Male also books various daytrips, including private island tours, which are booked direct with the resorts, ensuring a comfortable and safe journey for guests on speedboats operated by the resorts. The resorts have also been pre-selected, such as Taj Exotica (US$161 per person), Cinnamon Dhonveli (US$130), Centara Rasfushi (US$120) and Adaaran Hudhuranfushi (US$65). The package includes lunch, transfers, and use of beach and shower facilities.
FAST FACTS
HOTEL JEN MALE
Ameer Ahmed Magu, Male, Maldives
TEL +960 330 0888
EMAIL hjmd@hoteljen.com
WEBSITE www.hoteljen.com/ male/Maldives
TRAVEL FILE
How to get there
SCOOT flies to Maldives four times weekly (Mon, Wed, Fri, Sun) from Singapore with daily connecting flights to Kuala Lumpur. Scoot- Thru is a complimentary service offering seamless flight connection and check-through luggage (for Scoot, Singapore Airlines and SilkAir) at Singapore Changi Airport. Details at www.flyscoot.com.
Hulhumale-based tour operator Pro-Excursion Maldives is located on Hirundhu Magu; Email: proexcursion@gmail.com, yaamin1985@gmail.com, WhatsApp: +960 912 1036.