On a tour of the former state capital of Pahang, Zulkifly Ab Latif discovers the Zero KM marker and many heritage buildings
MY body aches as I wake up and sit upright on the cold grey slab of concrete that has been my bed after arriving from Kuala Lumpur by KTMB night train two hours ago.
It is 6am, and the town which previously seemed empty and abandoned slowly begins to stir to life. Across the street from the train station, a man is dropping bundles of stacked newspaper near a newspaper stand under the dim yellow glow of a street light. A motorcycle whizzes by, the rider cheerfully whistling while carrying a basket full of fresh green vegetables behind him.
I am in Kuala Lipis, a small town tucked away amidst the jungles of the state of Pahang that still feels as if it is in the middle of nowhere, just as it was some 140 years ago when it was only accessible by river.
Despite the fact that Kuala Lipis is now easily accessible by modern roads, I chose to take the train, partly to relive the nostalgia of how it was to explore the country’s hinterlands, particularly its old frontier towns, back in the days before the convenience of modern highways.
A HOLE-IN-THE-WALL FOOD COURT
Illuminated by morning light, Kuala Lipis paints a rustic picturesque view, with old colonial era buildings lining its main street known as Jalan Besar.
Many of the shops are still closed as I walk along the main street looking for a spot to have breakfast. Some 30m from the small alley that leads to the old Kuala Lipis train station, I spot a large sign that reads Medan Tangga.
Interestingly Medan Tangga is a food court, a staircase of hawker stalls sandwiched between two rows of shoplots. Here various selections of local delicacies are available, ranging from old town breakfast favourites such as roti bakar (kopitiam style toast) to Hakka noodles.
Medan Tangga looks and feels unique, a hole-in-the-wall establishment where all the clientele knows each other.
Sitting alone at a table while taking in the sights of Medan Tangga and admiring the vintage cup and saucer that my coffee is served in, an Indian man sitting at the table next to me throws me a friendly smile and asks where I came from.
I tell him and he nods while glancing at my camera on the table. As if understanding the purpose of my visit, he promptly suggests I take the walking tour of the many old buildings around the town.
“They are very nice-looking, you should also take the picture of the old Kuala Lipis milestone near the Post Office “ he adds.
Thanking the man who I find out is named Kumar, I decide to take up his suggestion and embark on the walking tour.
Kuala Lipis is a really small town, and according to Kumar it is possible to explore most of it on foot in a just a day.
ON FOOT FROM 0KM
The main road of the old quarter of Kuala Lipis town for example is a mere 400m long, and at one end of it I find the town’s Post Office and the famous Kuala Lipis Zero KM marker.
Near the Post Office is an area called Information Square, where there are faded notice boards providing brief historical
information about Kuala Lipis as well as a map detailing the many heritage buildings and other tourist attractions. Apparently the Post Office is one of the first built in the country, dating back to 1910.
Deciding from the information map, I then make my way to the Pahang Club building, situated nearby is the town’s government hospital. The old building is one of the first buildings built by the British, and served as the initial residence of the British resident when Kuala Lipis replaced the town of Pekan as the state capital of Pahang in 1898.
The building then became known as Pahang Club when it was repurposed as an exclusive club for high ranking British officers in 1926. Made entirely from wood with a large airy verandah, the Pahang Club building evokes memories of Pahang’s colonial past, when the British first adapted their lifestyle and architecture to the hot temperate climate of then Malaya.
Walking on the creaky floor boards of the verandah and trying to peer into the interior through the small gaps of the locked wooden doors, I find it unfortunate to see the building inastate of disrepair.
Some parts of the verandah is sagging, while the corners are slowly covered by overgrown plants. The building’s surrounding area is now merely parking space for the nearby hospital visitors, and there is even a white van that looks as if its been parked in front of the main entrance stairs for quite some time.
COLONIAL BUILDINGS
In contrast to the Pahang Club building, the next stop on my walking tour sees heritage buildings continuing to be used for their initial purposes, such as the Lipis District Office built in 1919 on top of a low hill.
Housing various district administrative offices, the white and red classical building with its high arches and open balconies is a majestic reminder of the days when Kuala Lipis served as Pahang’s state capital before it was moved to Kuantan in 1955.
Situated below the hill near the river is Clifford Secondary School, another example of the continued use of a heritage building for its original purpose. First opening its doors to students as the Government English School in 1913, it was later renamed after the then British resident Sir Hugh Clifford in 1929.
Despite the bustling activity and cheerful laughter of the students here, the school’s building also has a dark past, since it was also used by the Japanese military during World War 2 as a headquarters, with one of the now classrooms even being used as a torture room.
Next to the old school building is the Malay Hostel, built in 1926 to accommodate the increase in students during the days when the school was the biggest educational institution in Pahang.
Since I am visiting on a school day, it is worth mentioning that the school’s security guard who kindly let me in advises that visitors wishing to see the heritage buildings should plan their visits on weekends and public holidays, as to not intrude on the school’s daily purpose as an institution for education.
Although quite possible to be reached on foot, the next stop on my walking tour proves to be my last since I find it a challenge and physically tiring due to the steep climb and hot afternoon sun.
Situated on top of the highest hill in Kuala Lipis is the Residency Building, home to the British residents during colonial times.
I must admit that I underestimated the height of the hill when I began my walk, since I am quite exhausted and sweaty when I finally reach the top.
The building, erected in 1922, is another marvelous example of Colonial British architecture, having served as home to
British residents such as Sir Hugh as well as male student hostel in the 50s and 60s.
Now under the management of the district authority, the Residency Building is now a guesthouse offering accommodations to visitors and there is also an outdoor cafe and restaurant that only opens come night time.
I am back at the Kuala Lipis train station, waiting for the 3.40pm shuttle train that will take me to Gua Musang in Kelantan for the next step in my journey.
It has been a fulfilling day walking about the small rustic town, full of sights and sounds that harken to more simpler times in Pahang’s rich cultural history.
Kuala Lipis is indeed a preserved time capsule worth visiting, and will not disappoint those that take the time to walk its old streets and explore.
FAST FACTS
GATEWAY TO NATURAL ATTRACTIONS
SITUATED on the confluence of the Jelai and Lipis river, Kuala Lipis began as a gold-mining centre and trading post for items harvested from the jungles.
Attracted by its wealth of natural resources, the British arrived in 1887 and even made Kuala Lipis the state capital of Pahang in 1898. Kuala Lipis is accessible by railway either from Johor Baru or Kuala Lumpur.
There are 14 heritage buildings around Kuala Lipis, most of which is within walking distance of each other. Located in the third largest district of Pahang, Kuala Lipis is not only a picturesque historical town but also the gateway to many natural attractions such as Kenong Rimba Eco-Park, a popular forest reserve destination for backpackers exploring the country by rail.
From the town, visitors can either choose to enter the park via off-road vehicles or by boat, with many of the local hotels offering information on the tours available to the park.
Further inland from Kuala Lipis and accessible by the local shuttle train is Taman Negara Sungai Relau, near the small village of Merapoh.
Taman Negara Sungai Relau is a popular gateway to climbing Gunung Tahan, Peninsular Malaysia’s highest mountain and the route takes two days horter compared to the routes starting from Kuala Tahan in Pahang.
PICTURES BY ZULKIFLY AB LATIF