THE smoky-sweet aroma of incense sticks offered by late-morning worshippers wafts through the tranquil Cheng Hoon Teng Temple, Malaysia's oldest Taoist sanctuary. Devotees, cloaked in the soft glow of sunlight filtering through the darkened chambers, solemnly bow before a resplendent, gilded statue of the Goddess of Mercy.
"Notice her gaze," murmurs Pek Choo, our congenial tour guide, before adding: "Rotate yourself a full half-circle, and you'll discover she's eternally positioned to have the premier vantage point of the historic opera theatre just across the road."
Here, at the heart of the ancient temple, the gleaming statue of Guan Yin is flanked on her left by Ma Choe Poh, the maritime deity, and on her right, Kuan Ti Yeh, the patron god of commerce and traders.
This sumptuous chamber is awash in lavish detail. Opulent black lacquer-work provides a canvas for intricate Chinese characters traced in golden ink. Delicate strands of red fabric and twine dangle from above, whispering ancient tales and prayers with every rustle.
Amidst the steady influx of pilgrims and tourists, a reverential hush pervades this venerable sanctuary. It's as though the very presence of the deities housed within compels even casual murmurs to bow in muted awe. Here, in the watchful gaze of timeless gods and goddesses, whispers take on a sacred quality that affirms the sanctity of the space.
The reverential quietude is suddenly punctuated by the muezzin's plaintive call emanating from the nearby Kampung Kling Mosque — a captivating melange of Corinthian architecture, Portuguese ceramics, and Hindu ornamentation, masterfully assembled by Indian Muslims in the 18th century.
A few blocks away lies the 230-year-old Sri Poyyatha Vinayagar Moorthi Temple, Malaysia's most venerable Hindu shrine. Unfortunately for us, the temple will only be opened later in the evening.
Still, we're amazed that this lesser-travelled Jalan Tokong (Temple Street), which runs parallel to the more touristy Jonker Street or Jalan Hang Jebat, showcases three distinct places of worship sitting in peaceful juxtaposition; each a sentinel to a different faith. Here, in this quiet lane, the harmonious coexistence of disparate religious practices stands as a living monument to Melaka's vivid and complex history.
Though it appears to be just another languid day in Melaka, a city steeped in history and situated a mere couple of hours from Kuala Lumpur and a short journey from Singapore, beneath this calm veneer lies an enduring tapestry of rich multiculturalism.
For centuries, this city has been a vibrant blend of cultures, and it's now easier than ever to experience it firsthand. As new hotels rise and international visitors arrive in droves, the Courtyard by Marriott Melaka stands as a modern testament to this openness.
Located in the Unesco-recognised heart of the city, this 28-storey hotel adds a contemporary silhouette to a skyline that includes landmarks like the 1710-built St Peter's Church.
As our van eases to a graceful halt beneath the hotel's elegantly designed porte-cochere, the soothing cadence of a nearby water feature envelops us. It's a serene welcome that speaks to what may be the hotel's most distinguished attribute: an abiding sense of tranquillity.
"I can't wait to jump into bed for a quick snooze!" I blurt out, earning a quelling look from my editor, who's also my travel partner and fellow adventurer. This is no time to nap, she tells me sternly. "We're to check in and then continue exploring. It's Melaka!" she declares excitedly, heading for the lobby.
WELCOME TO SERENITY
Melaka or not, it feels like I'm stepping into a different world here in this wide space, with its muted tones and lighting that's in sharp contrast with the colourful, eclectic scenery outside.
Dominating the lobby is an arresting array of elongated bamboo seating. I cautiously lower myself onto one, only to find its aesthetic appeal outpaces its comfort. "These seats weren't designed for endless lounging," I observe.
Still, there are plenty of room for that elsewhere in the hotel. The Courtyard Cafe and the nostalgically named 1939 Lounge provide an array of inviting seats, allowing for moments of relaxation or, inevitably, for tackling work when time allows.
We're promptly ushered through check-in and soon find ourselves in a spacious room in similarly warm and subdued hues. Plush bedding beckons, while a window frames a sweeping view of the city skyline.
From our vantage point on the 18th floor, the vista below offers a revealing glimpse into the state's preservation ethos. In a landscape where pre-war architectural gems outnumber contemporary high-rises, it's evident that the city has chosen to safeguard its historical character, cautiously shaping its skyline over time.
My editor flashes a grin. "Time to see what this hotel's all about!" she says. Bidding adieu to my comfy bed, I follow with a sigh.
What's a great hotel without a killer pool? This one doesn't disappoint.
We descend to the 8th floor and step out to behold an infinity pool that's a showstopper. It's as if the pool's edge dissolves into the cityscape, creating a harmonious blend of skyline and water. Next to this splashy spectacle, a laid-back pool terrace beckons, inviting us to imagine lazier afternoons.
But it's not all leisure here: The hotel's top-notch fitness centre catches our eye. It's equipped for everyone, whether you're into light jogs or heavy lifting. "I think my workout today will be exploring the town," I say, picking up my pace as we pass by the gym, much to my editor's amusement.
"How about a glimpse of the ballroom?" she proposes, her eyes twinkling with mischief. I raise an eyebrow. Ballrooms aren't usually on my must-see list. "You never know when you might need one!" she retorts, grinning broadly.
We descend a level and stumble upon the hotel's crown jewel: the Grand Ballroom. Noteworthy for its absence of pillars, this architectural marvel is an extravagant canvas that can accommodate up to 1,000 guests in a setting of unparalleled elegance. "So, scouting venues for your wedding?" I quip. She laughs, but something tells me she's not entirely ruling it out.
Yet, for all the opulence that this four-star sanctuary offers, its most compelling attribute may well be its strategic location. Situated within arm's reach of Melaka's rich tapestry of historical and cultural landmarks, the hotel serves not merely as a retreat, but also as a gateway to the vibrant world beyond its walls.
It's soon time to explore the city again. Awaiting us at the lobby is our intrepid guide, Pek Choo. "Let's go!" she exclaims and off we go on another adventure!
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
Eschewing the well-trodden path to landmarks like the Porta De Santiago (A Famosa) — a relic of European architecture dating back to 1511 and constructed under the orders of Alfonso de Albuquerque, and the famed "Red Square" which includes a former town hall and governor's residence dating back to the 1650s and believed to be the oldest Dutch building in the East, to the famed Queen Victoria fountain as well as the 18th-century Christ Church Melaka — our guide is keen to explore lesser-known terrains.
Today, Melaka is a far cry from its fabled past of conquering armies and colonial ambitions. Once boasting one of the globe's wealthiest ports, the city now exists largely as a historical footnote. The spices that once fuelled global exploration — nutmeg, cloves, and mace — now sit forgotten in antique cabinets, relics of a bygone era.
We weave through the narrow, atmospheric streets, walking past hundreds of lantern-hung shophouses, some distinctly Chinese in style, others bearing geometric Art Deco trademarks, and grand residences with ornately tiled stoops built by wealthy families of the past. For centuries, these streets served as the town's commercial and residential centre.
There's certainly so much to see and explore, I murmur to my editor and she nods wordlessly. We half wish we could have more time to explore these streets on our own. Who knows the stories we'd find here? From dying trades to ancient graves, Melaka's streets are filled with so much hidden tales that have yet to be told.
We visit the Baba & Nyonya Heritage Museum, built by Baba Chan Cheng Siew (1865-1919) and comprising a combination of three terraced lots acquired by the Chan family in 1861.
Situated on Heeren Street — officially Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lock — the historic building was reinvented as a museum by Chan Kim Lay (fourth generation). The museum opened its doors in 1985 to showcase a grand Peranakan residence, brimming with artifacts and steeped in family lore.
Wander into the museum's expansive open-air kitchen where the woks, an ancient ice-cream maker and gleaming Nyonya ceramics harken back to a bygone era. Once under the matriarch's watchful eye, servants bustled about, crafting traditional Nyonya delicacies. It's certainly enough to work up quite an appetite!
My stomach rumbles loudly, eliciting a laugh from Pek Choo. In a city teeming with eateries that serve time-honoured recipes, the question of where you've eaten isn't a trivial one. Indeed, the culinary landscape here is as storied as Melaka's own rich tapestry of history.
Guided by Pek Choo, we arrive at Restoran Lim Jit, a renowned chicken rice ball shop on bustling Jonker Street. The throng outside the establishment confirms its celebrity status, and for a moment, I worry about snagging a table.
But with a determined stride, Pek Choo navigates the crowd and confers with a staff member. Moments later, she turns and waves us over, beaming. Her prescience in reserving a table pays dividends. Soon, a heaping platter of succulent steamed and roasted chicken with densely packed rice balls graces our table. Hunger, it seems, is the best seasoning.
DYING TRADES, ENDURING MEMORIES
We spend the remainder of the day meandering through the city's more subdued byways, encountering artisans deeply immersed in their age-old crafts. Among them are a tinsmith too engrossed in his work to chat, a lantern maker lamenting that his art may vanish with him, and Ting Wee Chia, a third-generation woodcarver renowned for his pai pan — traditional wooden signboards that adorn Chinese homes and businesses.
This craft calls for a medley of skills, including classic Chinese literacy, elegant calligraphy, and expert wood carving. Though Ting is absent, recovering from burn injuries sustained in an accident, we take our time admiring the remarkable pieces that fill his workshop.
"Oooh… this is beautiful!" my editor exclaims, lifting a beautiful silver chain that glimmers in the sunlight streaming into this cluttered space. Within the intimate confines of a nondescript shop run by third-generation silversmiths, Kua Beng Siong and his brother Kua Beng Seng, we find ourselves captivated by an array of exquisite silver jewellery.
My editor's eyes twinkle as she peruses a selection that includes rings, necklaces and anklets. Indeed, the allure of this diminutive boutique proves irresistible; we happily lighten our wallets to acquire some of its remarkable pieces.
As the sun sinks toward the horizon, we embark on an enchanting river cruise along Sungai Melaka, a waterway that metamorphoses in the embrace of nighttime, its surface sparkling with reflected lights. Buildings surrounding us take on a celestial luminance, imbuing the scene with an almost magical quality.
It's difficult to reconcile this tranquil tableau with historical accounts of Portuguese conquerors using this very river in the 1500s to seize the city. As we drift, the shadowed outlines of the iconic Red Square come into view, juxtaposed with the vibrant hues of the adjacent Chinatown.
Our evening culminates in a feast of Nyonya fare at Atlantic Nyonya Restaurant, where we savour bona fide Peranakan dishes — among them, ayam buah keluak, udang masak lemak nenas, tender ladyfinger topped with sambal belacan, and pai tee.
"Typical," Pek Choo decrees with instructive delight as each dish arrives. "This is typical Nyonya food." If this is typical, I think, then what does amazing taste like? Here, it seems, the two descriptors may very well be synonymous.
As we retreat to the muted warmth of our hotel, it becomes evident that the establishment serves as more than just a mere innkeeper. Indeed, the Courtyard by Marriott Melaka acts as a vital gateway to the historical fabric that cloaks the city it calls home. While the mission may appear daunting, the hotel stands as another portal to a city teeming with stories and history.
And in Melaka, we lay our heads down on plush bedding and sleep soundly, our dreams awash in a vivid tapestry of warriors, princesses, ancient conquerors and enduring legends.
COURTYARD BY MARRIOTT MELAKA
Where: Jalan Lorong Haji Bachee, Kampung Bukit China, 75100 Melaka.
Phone: 06-221 2288
Discover Melaka with Agoda Promo Code to seize additional discounts on hotel bookings.