THERE are places in this world where history doesn't just whisper through the walls; it roars. In Beijing, two landmarks stand as eternal witnesses to the rise and fall of empires, the resilience of people, and the tides of revolution — Tiananmen Square and the Great Wall of China.
These iconic sites draw millions of visitors every year, but beneath their imposing presence lies a more profound story — a story of power, endurance and the indomitable spirit of a nation.
MONUMENT TO CHANGE
In the heart of Beijing, the vast expanse of Tiananmen Square stretches out like a canvas upon which centuries of Chinese history have been painted. Tiananmen, meaning "Gate of Heavenly Peace", is far more than just a gathering place for tourists. It's a site steeped in glory and tragedy, the very soul of modern China.
Tiananmen Square was first built during the Ming Dynasty in 1417 when Beijing was taking shape as China's new political and cultural heart. However, it was during the early 20th century, under the leadership of Mao Zedong, that Tiananmen Square became the grand space that we know today.
Mao envisioned the square as a vast public forum where more than half a million people could assemble to witness the dawn of a new socialist era. He sought to create a space not just for political assemblies, but one where the people of China could feel unified under a common purpose.
However, behind the grand architecture and open space lay a deeper, more human story. In the early days of the People's Republic of China, the square became a focal point for public celebrations, military parades and meaningful political events. But for many, it's also a place of reflection, where echoes of the past remind us of the complexities of revolution and the price of change.
MAGNITUDE OF HISTORY
One of the most potent reminders of this history is the 1989 pro-democracy movement that unfolded on these very stones. While the square has long been a symbol of state power, it also became the setting for one of the most poignant demonstrations of the people's voice then.
What began as a student-led protest calling for political reform ended in a crackdown, an event that still resonates in the minds of many.
As I stood there under the beating sun, looking at the square's famous red walls and the looming portrait of Mao Zedong, I couldn't help but reflect on the sheer magnitude of history that surrounded me.
Just like the countless visitors who gathered here, I felt a sense of awe — not just at the scale of the square but at the weight of its history. Families wandered through, snapping photos, children laughed and played… yet behind their smiles, I wondered how much they knew about the history of this place.
Walking further, I arrived at the Mausoleum of Mao Zedong, where lines of visitors were silently queueing up to pay their respects to the man whose image still dominates the square.
Just up ahead, the Monument to the People's Heroes stood tall, a testament to those who fought in China's revolutionary wars.
It's a reminder that the square isn't just about Mao or the Communist Party, but about the millions of ordinary Chinese people, whose lives were shaped by the turbulence of the 20th century.
And yet, Tiananmen isn't only a place of struggle; it's a place where, in the shadow of state power, people come together in celebration, remembrance, and quiet reflection.
HUMAN SPIRIT
While Tiananmen Square tells a story of modern China, the Great Wall, meanwhile, is a testament to the ingenuity and endurance of the ancient world. Located in Huairou district, far from the bustle of central Beijing, the Great Wall snakes across rugged mountains, its ancient stones standing as a silent witness to over 2,000 years of Chinese history.
Construction of the Great Wall began as early as the 7th century BC, when warring states built defensive walls to protect their territories. However, during the reign of Qin Shi Huang, China's first emperor, these walls were connected, forming the iconic structure we know today.
The wall stretches over 21,000 kilometres, an unimaginable feat of engineering that required the labour of hundreds of thousands of workers — many of whom never returned home.
For centuries, the Great Wall served as a bulwark of Chinese dynasties against northern invaders, including the Mongols.
But beyond its military function, the wall mainly symbolised the strength and unity of the Chinese empire.
Over time, it also came to represent the perseverance of the Chinese people, who, despite immense hardship, built something that lasted for thousands of years.
Among the many segments of this colossal structure, the Juyongguan Pass, or Juyong Pass, holds a special place for its historical significance and the unique blend of cultural and spiritual experiences it offers visitors.
Located just 50km northwest of Beijing, Juyong Pass is one of the three major passes along the Great Wall, alongside Jiayuguan and Shanhai Pass. As one of the most accessible sections of the capital, Juyong Pass has long been a popular destination for residents and international tourists.
BACK IN TIME
For those travelling from bustling Beijing, the journey to Juyong Pass feels like a step back in time, away from the modern metropolis into the heart of ancient China.
The first thing that will strike you is the sheer scale of the landscape. It's nestled in a narrow valley between two majestic mountain ranges, creating a natural fortress that has protected northern China for over 2,000 years.
The air is crisp, and the towering mountains rise endlessly into the sky, providing a dramatic backdrop for the Great Wall as it winds through the rugged terrain.
The Great Wall at Juyong Pass is a marvel of military architecture, built to withstand the test of time and the onslaught of invaders. The walls, made of large stone blocks and bricks, are tall and imposing, equipped with strategically placed watchtowers and fortresses that served as lookout points and defence posts in the past.
One of the most striking features of Juyong Pass is the Cloud Platform, a series of functional gates beautifully adorned with intricate carvings and Buddhist inscriptions.
This architectural masterpiece is a reminder that the Great Wall isn't just a military structure, but also a cultural and spiritual landmark. With their exquisite details, the gates tell stories of ancient beliefs and practices, adding depth to the experience of visiting Juyong Pass.
Beyond its military significance, Juyong Pass is also a place of profound spiritual importance. At the heart of this lies the Guan Yu Temple, dedicated to the legendary Guan Yu, the god of military wealth.
REVERED DEITY
Guan Yu is a revered figure in Chinese history and mythology, celebrated for his loyalty, bravery and martial arts skills. Over the centuries, he has come to be worshipped as a protector of business people, believed to bestow success, prosperity and protection on those who honour him.
Visiting this temple is a profoundly moving experience. It's nestled within the Great Wall's embrace, surrounded by towering mountains and the ancient stone walls that have stood for millennia.
On a recent visit, I observed a steady stream of visitors to the temple, both locals and tourists alike, bearing offerings of incense, fruit and symbolic tokens, their faces reflecting a mix of reverence and hope.
Many bowed deeply as they approached the altar, where a statue of Guan Yu, looking resplendent in his warrior's garb, stood guard. The sight of so many people gathered in silent prayer, their wishes and hopes carried on the smoke of burning incense, was profoundly moving.
A China International Press Communication Centre (CIPCC) representative named Albert shared that these rituals were significant.
"People come here to burn incense, worship and pray sincerely. Guan Yu is believed to be able to ward off evil spirits, assist in the recovery of the sick, and help people attain wealth," he explained.
Business people, from small shop owners to corporate executives, visit the temple to seek Guan Yu's blessings before embarking on new ventures. The belief in Guan Yu's power is so strong that many consider visiting the temple essential to their business success. This mix of ancient tradition and modern aspiration makes Juyong Pass a fascinating place to visit.
As I climbed its steep steps, I couldn't help but reflect on the human cost of its construction. It's said that the bones of the peasants who died are buried within the structure, earning it the sombre nickname "the longest cemetery on earth".
Yet, for all its history of conflict and sacrifice, the Great Wall today is a place of peace. Visitors walk its length, marvelling at the stunning views of the Chinese countryside and the sheer magnitude of the wall itself.
LASTING MEMORIES
As I stood atop one of its towers, gazing out across the seemingly endless stretch of stone, I realised that the Great Wall, like Tiananmen Square, isn't just a monument to the past. It's a reminder of what humanity can achieve in moments of unity and division.
While the historical and spiritual significance of Juyong Pass is undeniable, the area's natural beauty is equally captivating. The pass is surrounded by lush mountains, dense forests, and clear rivers, creating a serene and picturesque environment that invites exploration.
For those who enjoy hiking, the trails around Juyong Pass offer stunning views of the Great Wall as it snakes through the mountains, with each twist and turn revealing new vistas of the ancient structure and the landscape it dominates.
The best time to visit Juyong Pass is during spring or autumn, when the weather is mild and the natural surroundings are most beautiful. In spring, the mountains are covered in vibrant green foliage, and wildflowers bloom along the trails, adding splashes of colour to the rugged landscape.
In autumn, the leaves turn brilliant shades of red, orange and yellow, creating a breathtaking contrast against the gray stones of the Great Wall. For photographers and nature lovers, Juyong Pass is a dream come true. The combination of historical architecture and natural beauty provides endless opportunities for capturing stunning images.
Whether photographing the Great Wall as it disappears into the misty mountains, the intricate details of the Cloud Platform, or the serene atmosphere of the Guan Yu Temple, you're sure to come away with great photos — and memories — that will last a lifetime.
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