THE announcement comes somewhat earlier than expected, catching me totally off guard. I try to maintain my composure as I navigate through the growing crowds that have begun to gather since early evening.
Gloomy, dark clouds loom overhead, nudging me to quicken my pace.
By the time I reach the main entrance, the place is already bustling. There are many devotees dressed in white, some engaging in lively discussions, while others seek solitude near the imposing pillars adorned with intricate dragon carvings.
As one of the authority figures begins outlining the evening's instructions, those who arrived first have started forming a line, with me — having been a little late — standing further down the road.
The ceremony commences without much fanfare. Each participant kneels on a red cushion facing the main altar.
The first will toss a pair of red crescent-shaped wooden blocks, known as jiaobei, into the air. If one lands flat-side up, the person will receive the gods' blessing to carry the statue for the night. If both blocks land flat-side down, it means the opposite. Anyone interested is allowed to try, provided they have observed the stipulated nine-day vegetarian diet.
When my turn arrives, I close my eyes and whisper a prayer while holding the jiaobei to my forehead. After a tense moment, I toss them into the air. One block lands awkwardly near my thigh on the kneeling block.
A collective "nay" echoes in the air. Undeterred, I rejoin the line, hoping for a better outcome.
Two more participants succeed in their attempts, and I try to stay positive. When the managing trustee (lor chu) hands me the jiaobei for my second attempt, I repeat the ritual, closing my eyes tightly. Again, a resounding "nay" fills the space as one jiaobei falls onto the cushion. I berate myself for the repeated mistake.
I know I have only one more attempt left, provided that statues are still available. The god I seek to represent is Tua Thai Chu, or Nezha, one of the three Sam Thai Chu deities.
With a sense of calm determination, the trustee hands me the jiaobei for my final try. This time, I aim to toss them at an angle, hoping they will land on the floor rather than the cushion.
As the blocks hit the ground with a satisfying thud, the crowd erupts in cheers. Relief washes over me as I open my eyes and rush to the young woman beside the lor chu, eager to write my name as a successful bearer of the statue.
Euphoria lifts my spirits as I kneel before the main altar, which houses the Nine Emperor Gods and the majestic figures of Nezha. I take a moment for a private conversation with the gods, expressing my gratitude for the honour bestowed upon me.
We are instructed to return to the main hall within an hour, before the firewalking ceremony begins.
HEAT OF ANTICIPATION
As the sixth day of the Nine Emperor Gods Festival unfolds, the atmosphere shifts with the night.
The crowd has swollen, drawn by the bustling vegetarian stalls that have come alive, offering delicacies like pancakes, sweet corn, vegetarian bak kut teh and mee jawa. Families and friends fill the streets, creating a vibrant, communal spirit.
All successful candidates make their way to the main hall within the designated timeframe. We queue according to hierarchy and approach the altar amid the thunderous sound of drums.
I am the first to be called forward and, with utmost care, I gingerly grasp the flat wooden base of Tua Thai Chu's statue, preparing to carry it to its designated location. One by one, the other bearers receive their statues too, including Tua Pek Khong, while the lor chu himself confidently holds the Dou Mu Gong statue.
I can see that a clear path has been made for us by a string of volunteers holding flags. As we march towards the firewalking site, the crowd gathers around us, eager to catch a glimpse of our solemn procession. The heat from the embers intensifies as we approach the site. The pile of wood, previously arranged with care, has been ignited, leaving behind a glowing pathway.
Upon reaching the firewalking site, we gently place the statues on a table, accompanied by a thick, lighted joss stick resting in front of them. Raindrops begin to fall, but that doesn't dampen the excitement.
The heat is palpable and I try to remain composed.
The mediums, acting as vessels for the gods, are the first to walk on the glowing embers, testing the heat. They direct pairs of men dressed in white, who pound the embers to ensure an even surface. As they strike the pathway, scores of reddish particles leap into the air, captivating the audience.
As the rain intensifies, I seek permission to pray in all the din, sharing my intentions with the gods in a personal moment of reflection. The firewalking ceremony is about to start as the joss stick burns shorter.
BLESSINGS FROM THE GODS
One by one, we the "chosen" are summoned to hold the statues firmly against our chests for balance. The lor chu leads the way, carrying Dou Mu Gong, followed solemnly by the rest in our designated order.
When it is finally my turn, I stand in trepidation before the glowing embers, a sense of fear gripping my core. Yet I remind myself that I am on this journey with the gods' blessings. But rather than walking, I run across the pathway anyway, the heat biting into my feet with every step.
The sensation peaks when my right toe presses against the embers, sending a sharp painful sting through me. I can't help but stumble slightly, but I am adamant to press on. Imagine my relief when I finally reach the end of the path.
Contentment washes over me as I am eventually escorted back to the main hall, the statue of Tua Thai Chu firmly in my sweaty grip. It really feels as if a heavy burden has been lifted off my shoulders, and I really do feel "lighter" than the previous day.
Despite my feet stinging from the heat, I kneel at the main altar to thank the gods as the statue is returned to its rightful place by the person in charge.
Suffice to say, it has indeed been an unforgettable night.
Tan Bok Hooi has a postgraduate degree in particle physics. An author of six books (Malay and English), he established LIVEFREE, a consulting company focused in healthcare with emphasis on talent acquisition and consultancy.
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