JUST 15 kilometres northwest of Beijing's frenetic city centre, nestled among rolling hills and serene lakes, lies a sanctuary that offers a glimpse into the splendour of imperial China. A Unesco World Heritage site, the Summer Palace, known as Yihe Yuan, is a sprawling landscape of exquisite gardens, glittering pavilions, and scenic walkways, which have inspired poets, artists, and emperors alike for centuries.
For me, stepping into the Summer Palace is like stepping into another world — one where history comes alive and tranquillity reigns supreme.
Beijing is a city that never sleeps; a place where modern skyscrapers rise alongside ancient temples, and the sounds of traffic and bustling crowds echo through the streets. But as I make my way to the Summer Palace, leaving the city centre behind, I begin to feel a sense of calm wash over me.
The chaos and rush of Beijing slowly fade, replaced by the promise of peace and serenity. After a short 30- minute drive, I arrive at the palace's entrance. The transformation is immediate. The air feels fresher, the sounds quieter, and the landscape more inviting with every step I take.
Once inside the palace grounds, it feels as if time has slowed down. The towering presence of Longevity Hill and the shimmering expanse of Kunming Lake greet me like old friends. Known as the "Garden of Harmonious Pleasures", the Summer Palace stands as a testament to China's deep reverence for nature and artistry. It's a place where history whispers through ancient corridors, reflections dance on calm waters, and every path leads to a new story waiting to be discovered.
KUNMING LAKE: A MIRROR TO HEAVEN
One of the most striking features of the Summer Palace is Kunming Lake, an expansive man-made body of water that covers more than two-thirds of the palace grounds. Inspired by the famous West Lake in Hangzhou, this serene lake was designed to blend harmoniously with the surrounding landscape, creating a picture-perfect reflection of the traditional Chinese garden aesthetic.
Standing at the edge of the lake, I'm mesmerised by the sheer vastness. The water stretches out before me like a mirror, reflecting the distant pagodas, willow-lined shores, and ornate bridges that dot the palace grounds.
There's a serenity to Kunming Lake that's difficult to describe. As I gaze at the small boats gliding lazily across its surface, carrying visitors deeper into the heart of the palace, I feel at peace. It's as though the lake itself has the power to quiet the mind, to slow time, and to transport me into a different realm.
I couldn't resist the opportunity to experience the lake from the water, so I decide to hop aboard a traditional wooden boat. The soft breeze, the gentle lapping of the water, and the breathtaking views from every angle make the experience truly unforgettable.
As the boat drifts toward Nanhu Island, home to the stunning Dragon King Temple, I find myself lost in thought, reflecting on the countless emperors and empresses who must have made this same journey, seeking peace and solace in these serene surroundings.
ICONIC MASTERPIECE
As I look out to the lake from my boat, I find my gaze drawn to the Seventeen-Arch Bridge, an architectural wonder that gracefully stretches across the water. This marble bridge, a masterpiece of Qing Dynasty engineering, connects the eastern shore of Kunming Lake to Nanhu Island. Its 17 symmetrical arches create an almost dreamlike reflection on the water's surface. I'm duly struck by its elegance and grandeur.
The bridge is lined with 544 intricately carved marble lions, each one unique in its design. I take my time to cross the bridge, stopping often to admire the craftsmanship of the statues and to take in the stunning views.
As I reach the centre of the bridge, I pause to watch the sun begin its descent toward the horizon. The golden light bathes the bridge in a warm glow, casting shimmering reflections on the water below. It's one of those moments that feel almost otherworldly, a perfect harmony of nature and human artistry.
JOURNEY THROUGH ART AND TIME
After crossing the Seventeen-Arch Bridge, I make my way to the Long Corridor, or Chang Lang, one of the Summer Palace's most famous attractions. This covered walkway stretches over 700 metres meters along the northern shore of Kunming Lake, winding its way through the palace grounds like a ribbon of colour and history.
But the Long Corridor is more than just a passage — it's an immersive gallery of over 14,000 intricate paintings, each one depicting scenes from Chinese folklore, landscapes, historical events and mythical creatures.
As I walk under the colourful beams and panels, I'm captivated by the detail and beauty of the artwork. Every step along the corridor reveals a new story, an interesting glimpse into China's rich cultural heritage.
The Long Corridor also offers ever-changing views of the surrounding lake and gardens. At times, I would glance out between the painted beams to catch a glimpse of the still waters of Kunming Lake, the distant pagodas or the lush greenery of the palace grounds. The corridor provides a perfect balance of art and nature, offering both shelter from the summer sun and a connection to the beauty of the outdoors.
CLIMBING INTO HISTORY
Rising 60 metres above the northern shore of Kunming Lake is Longevity Hill, a majestic elevation that offers both historical significance and breathtaking views. The hill is dotted with temples, pavilions, and pagodas, each one a testament to the architectural genius of imperial China.
The most iconic structure on the hill is the Tower of Buddhist Incense, which sits majestically at the summit. Its golden tiles gleam in the afternoon sunlight, and as I approach the tower, I can feel the weight of history in its presence. The tower was once used by the imperial family for religious ceremonies and is one of the most important structures within the palace complex.
Climbing to the top of the Tower of Buddhist Incense is no easy feat, but the effort is well worth it. From the summit, I'm rewarded with a panoramic view of the Summer Palace, the Kunming Lake shimmering below and the distant skyline of Beijing just visible on the horizon.
The view is nothing short of spectacular. I stand there for a while, simply taking it all in, imagining the emperors who had once stood in this very spot, gazing out over their imperial domain.
OPULENT SYMBOL OF STABILITY
Descending from Longevity Hill, I make my way in the direction of one of the Summer Palace's most famous and intriguing attractions — the Marble Boat. Also known as the Boat of Purity and Ease, this intricately designed structure sits along the shore of Kunming Lake, its reflection shimmering in the water.
Despite its name, the Marble Boat was never meant to sail — it's entirely made of stone. Commissioned by Empress Dowager Cixi during the palace's reconstruction in the late 19th century, the boat is often seen as a symbol of imperial luxury and excess.
The Marble Boat's design is both opulent and whimsical, with its stone base carved to resemble waves as if it were floating on the water. As I stand before it, I can't help but reflect on the paradox of its existence — built during a time of great political and social upheaval, the boat represents both the grandeur and the fragility of the imperial court. While it may no longer float, the boat remains an enduring symbol of a bygone era, a reminder of the lavish lifestyle of the imperial family.
GLIMPSE INTO ANCIENT COMMERCE
Tucked away on the northern side of Longevity Hill is Suzhou Street, a hidden gem that transports visitors into the heart of an ancient water town. Modelled after the famous canal towns of southern China, particularly Suzhou, this area was initially constructed to entertain the imperial family. The emperors and empresses would visit the street to watch merchant scenes reenacted by palace staff, creating a lively marketplace for the court's amusement.
Today, Suzhou Street has been restored and is lined with quaint shops selling traditional Chinese crafts, antiques and souvenirs. As I stroll along the narrow lanes, flanked by a gently flowing canal, I find myself imagining the bustling marketplace that once thrived here.
The street's quiet charm and intimate atmosphere provide a peaceful escape from the more crowded parts of the palace. It's easy to lose track of time as I wander in and out of the shops, admiring the craftsmanship of the items on display and imagining what life must have been like in ancient China.
GARDEN OF VIRTUE AND HARMONY
Located near to the northern entrance of the Summer Palace lies the Garden of Virtue and Harmony, or Dehe Yuan, a complex of theatres and courtyards that once served as the venue for imperial performances.
Built during the reign of Empress Dowager Cixi, this garden was designed as an extravagant setting for Peking Opera performances, a favourite pastime of the empress. Traditional Chinese opera performances are still staged here occasionally, offering visitors a rare glimpse into the opulent entertainment culture of the Qing Dynasty.
Although I'm not fortunate enough to witness a live performance during this visit, the mere presence of the Grand Theatre and its adjoining structures still evoke a vivid sense of history.
The Summer Palace is more than just a collection of beautiful buildings and gardens; it's a place where history, culture and nature come together in perfect harmony. Every path I walk, every structure I explore and every view I take in tell a story of China's imperial past, its artistic achievements and its deep connection to the natural world. It's no wonder that the palace continues to inspire visitors that converge here, offering them a glimpse into a world that's both ancient and timeless.
My visit to the Summer Palace has been more than just a visit to a historical site; it has been a journey through time, a sensory experience that has left me with a deeper appreciation for China's rich cultural heritage.
As I depart the palace grounds and make my way back to the bustling city of Beijing, I continue to carry with me the sense of calm and wonder. Suffice to say, it's a place that stays with you long after you have left, a reminder of the beauty that exists when nature and human creativity come together in perfect harmony.