Cameron Highlands is more than tea and scones. Shuib Taib immerses in its charm and mystery
AFTER almost six hours on the road, no thanks to a pick-up truck that turned turtle and caused a massive crawl along the Tapah-Simpang Pulai stretch, we finally arrive in Cameron Highlands.
The air is refreshingly cool but not cold. In the 1970s, temperatures used to be much colder, according to regular visitors. I can’t tell the difference since this is my maiden trip.
As we drive through small towns, I find new buildings and shoplots an eyesore. It is the black and white colonial bungalows, especially those with chimneys, which captivate me.
The narrow roads and English-style bed and breakfast cottages lend a delightful old world charm. Not to mention the rolling hills and colourful flowers dotting the roads.
Since it is a weekend, it is crowded everywhere. At the market, visitors gather at stalls selling strawberries and fresh vegetables. Then there are roses in various colours. I buy somein red, pink, orange and purple.
At about 1,500m above sea level, the climate here is ideal to cultivate fruit and vegetables.
Sadly, the clearing of land to make way for illegal farming activities has caused landslides and soil erosion.
LUXURY ABODE
Cameron Highlands Resort is a tranquil 56-room hideaway amid tea plantations and rolling hills. The colonial style boutique hotel, with its leather couches, timber-beamed ceilings and roaring fireplaces, reminds me of Cameron’s English heritage.Indeed, with Christmas just around the corner, it is an ideal choice for those celebrating yuletide.
MY CUPPA TEA
Mention “tea” and I usually think of ginger-infused teh tarik. But when in Cameron Highlands, I see images of gentility, dainty pastries on delicate china, warm scones, succulent strawberries and clotted cream.
The time-honoured afternoon tea is presented to perfection in the comfortable confines of the Jim Thompson TeaRoom. Indeed, I can’t think of anything more English than a selection of finger sandwiches, light-as-air sweet and savoury pastries and delicious scones served with clotted cream and strawberry jam. Complementing this spread is a wide selection of exquisite Cameron Highlands teas of course. The tea room is furnished with the finestquality Jim Thompson fabrics and the ambience is warm and cheery.
Embodying the charm of an English colonial home, the room is a cosy, elegant afternoon tea retreat. Is it any wonder that Cameron Highlands is sometimes referred to as the little corner of England in Asia?
The English Afternoon Tea, priced at RM45++ per person, RM80++ for two, is available daily from 3pm to 5pm.
JIM THOMPSON ENIGMA
Before Cameron Highlands, I had no clue as to who Jim Thompson was and why he was such a mystery. It takes a Jim Thompson trail walk to get me completely hooked. As we get into comfortable gear for a walk in the hills, our guide tells us more about Thompson, an American businessman (believed to be a CIA undercover agent) and the Thai Silk King who went missing in the hill resort onMarch 26, 1967. He often stayed at the house belonging to his friend, Dr Ling Tien-Gia Singaporean chemist, and his Caucasian wife, Helen.
Thompson, married and divorced, was known to be a womaniser and was believed to have had a string of affairs, including Ling.
On March 26, Thompson arrived in Cameron Highlands with his longtime female acquaintance, Constance Mangskau.
After lunch, Thompson left Dr Ling’s house (now known as Moonlight bungalow) at 1.30pm and was never seen again.
The following day, the police, armed forces, orang asli and search and rescue dogs combed the area, including a hill trail now known as the Jim Thompson Trail.
“The strange thing was, a few days after he went missing, two monks from Tibet came to look for him. Apparently a small Buddhist statue had been stolen from them and they believed Thompson had kept it. About a year after Thompson’s disappearance, his sister was killed in the US.
“When he left Moonlight bungalow, Thompson did not take anything with him, not even his passport. If he did indeed go into the jungle and was attacked, we would have found traces of his footsteps, or bits of torn clothing or blood. There was none. We combed the whole area but there was no trace of Jim Thompson,” said Major (rtd) Mukhtar Mohamed who was involved in the search effort.
MURDER MYSTERY DINNER
The Jim Thompson story has inspired a twist in Christmas tradition in the form of a 1960s murder mystery dinner. The evening begins with Japanese-inspired saketini cocktails at theal fresco Gonbei Bar, where we turn up dressed-to-the-nines. I run into Saloma and Tan Sri P. Ramlee, fictional doctors such Dr Aikenhead, according to the character cards we are given prior to the event. My character is a fashion designer and no, I do not kill Jim Thompson.
Once we get acquainted with our new ‘characters’, we proceed to The Dining Room where the fun begins as dinner is served. That night, two murders are committed, blackmail money passes hands and guests comb the resort grounds for clues and evidence. The dinner party culminates with the voting for and selection of Performer, Super Sleuth, Best Costume and Wealthiest Player. I did not win any of the titles but I sure had fun!
CHRISTMAS TRADITIONS
The annual Christmas Tree lighting has the guests completely floored. Thousands of fairy lights strung on pine trees lining the driveway are lighted up just as the choir bursts into Joy To The World, bringing warmth and cheer to the chilly evening.
Attention then turns to the sumptuous Christmas dinner in The Dining Room, beginning with pumpkin soup topped with seared scallops. The next course brings lighter, yet no less delicious flavours to the palate in the form of prawn and porcini ravioli. My favourite is the main course of beef wellington.
As the choir comes in to serenade again, we are served a mini dessert platter of Christmas pudding with mince pie with orange sauce and strawberry trifle with dark chocolate praline. The evening ends with guests singing Christmas carols at the crackling fireplace, accompanied by the resident pianist.
BATHING IN TEA
There are four different types of spa treatments but I feel compelled to try the tea bath. After all, I am in Cameron Highlands which is also famous for its tea plantations. But why a tea bath?
Well, it’s the signature treatment here and is said to relieve stress and refresh the skin as well as slow down ageing. This healing therapy is inspired by the restorative properties of tea as well as thebeliefs of the indigenous people.
This knowledge is drawn from the orang asli who have a deep understanding of plants, herbs and flowers that have the capacity to heal.
After about 15 minutes of soaking myself in tea, it is time for a Balinese-inspired rub. How is the massage? Well, I fall asleep somewhere along the way, so it must have been really good!