Zimbabweans flock to the Eastern Highlands to escape the warmer temperatures of the lowlands, writes David Bowden
ONE of the big attractions of travelling in a temperate country is that the cooler weather makes outdoor activities so much more enjoyable.
While many think of Africa as hot and tropical, the temperatures in Zimbabwe’s Eastern Highlands are very moderate and often quite cool.
The Eastern Highlands have long been popular with Zimbabweans who come to escape the warmer weather of the lowlands around the capital of Harare. For decades, they have gone to the Eastern Highlands to enjoy outdoor activities such as bushwalking, golf, mountain climbing and fishing.
Despite it being winter months (June to August) when I made plans to travel to Zimbabwe and the Eastern Highlands , the last thing I thought I’d be doing would be sitting in front of a log fireplace and turning on the electric blanket in bed each evening.
TEA, FALLS AND VIEWS
Tea is produced in the Eastern Highlands. My accommodation at Aberfoyle Lodge, near the head of the vast Honde Valley, is surrounded by a carpet of carefully manicured camellia plants from which tea is produced.
I really have to pinch myself to reassure myself that I am in fact in Zimbabwe and not Malaysia as there is a close similarity between the two landscapes. The similarities continued with signs of colonial heritage of both, from the quaint colonial accommodation and golf course to forest walks and temperate garden beds full of flowers.
The nine-hole course here is well maintained and golf clubs are available for hire. The course weaves through tea plantations and native forests and helpful caddies are available for an injection of local knowledge. There is a putt-putt course for a less challenging game of golf and other facilities in the lodge such as squash court and snooker table make this an essential place to relax in the fresh mountain air of the Eastern Highlands. Serious walkers should enquire about the Turaco Trail operated by the lodge owners and lasting over several nights in the great Zimbabwean outdoors.
COLONIAL CHARM
Much of the highlands is trapped in a quaint colonial time warp and this is best reflected in the accommodation available. Most properties are small establishments which no doubt boomed when the economy flourished but now the original furniture is mostly due to the high cost of replacing it rather than a desire to remain in the colonial era.
Most properties have open fireplaces, serve traditional English fare, offer old-fashioned service and, in some, make hot water bottles available to keep beds warm at night.
It would be easy to spend at least a week travelling through the highlands and staying in several small hotels such as Aberfoyle Lodge (www.aberfoylelodge.com) and Troutbeck Inn (www.troutbeckinn.net) close by to Nyanga National Park in the northern parts of the highland.
Most accommodation is remote and spending more than one night in each makes sense to fully appreciate all it offers.
Aberfoyle Lodge is a long way from anywhere and I’m glad I stayed for two nights as it is very restful with delicious food, a challenging golf course carved through the forest, superb recently-renovated accommodation and excellent forests walks through the tea plantations and along a stream.
Troutbeck appeals as it is a larger hotel with comprehensive facilities, including a golf course and trout fishing in a lake. Troutbeck has several comfortable lounge areas in which to relax and there is also the Hare and Hound Bar which is spacious and features a roaring log fire.
Apparently, the welcoming log fire in the hotel’s reception is noted for having burned continuously since 1951.
Two other recommended options are La Rochelle Country House and Spa (www.larochellecentre.com) at Penhalonga and Leopard Rock (www.theleopardrock.com) in the Bvumba Mountains towards the southern parts of the highlands.
Food is a highlight of my brief visit to La Rochelle, the former estate of the late Sir Stephen and Lady Virginia Courtauld and now a gracious country retreat with extensive manicured gardens. A walk around the gardens is recommended, especially if one of the helpful gardeners accompanies you to the prestigious Courtauld Orchid Collection.
NATURE ESCAPES
Many visitors know Zimbabwe for its extensive national parks covering vast open plains and the opportunities these present in spotting wildlife. The mountainous Eastern Highlands have a different landscape and what animals there were, were mostly hunted out decades ago.
However, Nyanga and Mtarazi National Parks present some wildlife spotting opportunities for animals like zebra, kudu, impala, waterbuck, wildebeest and an aviary of birds.
Mount Nyangani at 2,590m in Nyanga National Park is the country’s highest peak and there’s a steep four-hour return walk to the summit where some amazing views of the highlands and into neighbouring Mozambique can be had.
There are several waterfalls around Nyanga with the most accessible ones being the Nyangombe Falls in Nyanga National Park.
Guests at the delightful Leopard Rock property should participate in a guide-led nature walk through their private game sanctuary attached to the property and expansive golf course. Guides show us ostrich, impala, giraffe and several species of monkeys in the open savannah vegetation.
Zimbabwe has many contrasting landscapes with the Eastern Highlands being noticeably cooler than other parts of the country. It is one of the least visited parts of Zimbabwe so visitors feel they almost have it all to themselves.
HOW TO GET THERE
There are no direct flights from Malaysia to Zimbabwe but Emirates provides a daily service via Dubai and Lusaka (Zambia) to Harare, the capital of Zimbabwe. While there is no shortcut to the 20-hour flight, flying with Emirates with its extensive in-flight entertainment programme and superb food and beverages creates a great start to your Zimbabwe holiday.
GETTING ABOUT
The Eastern Highlands are several hours from Harare and extend some 300km, north to south so mobility is important in seeing several locations. Hire a car or better still, use the services of a travel company, especially if you are travelling in a small group. I travelled in such a group and used the helpful services of a mini bus and driver supplied by Nyati Travel and Tours (www.nyati-travel.com).
VISA REQUIREMENTS
Tourist visas are issued at immigration upon arrival for a fee of US$30 or RM120 (US dollars are the only currency to bring with you) plus a passport-sized photo. Consult Zimbabwe Tourism (www.zimbabwetourism.net) for all travel requirements to the country.