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The art of the tengkolok

BOTA: Back then, the tengkolok — the traditional Malay headgear for men — was a status symbol. Only the rich wore it.

Today, the trend of wearing tengkolok, especially during Hari Raya is getting more popular among people. It speaks of a strong identity of the Malay culture and tradition.

Tengkolok maker Osman Abd Rahman, 38, fondly known as Tok Tulis Perak, said today, the tengkolok worn were designs that had been modified from the original style.

"Commoners were not allowed to wear the same designs worn by the royalties. So the designs and shapes vary from state to state and each shape is folded in semblance of natural elements such as animals," he said.

There are a variety of names for tengkolok. There are Warisan, Lang Patah Sayap, Ayam Patah Kepak, Dendam Tak Sudah, Gajah Berjuang and Menyonsong Angin.

The father-of-three said he had received up to 150 orders for Tengkolok Warisan as well as Tanjak Keriasi, a modern feel infused with traditional details.

"The implementation of the Movement Control Order (MCO) saw a drop in orders. Last year, I had to close orders on the second day of Ramadan. This year, most of my customers are concerned that their items may not be delivered during this period.

"But I am grateful that we have entered the fifth phase of MCO and the number of orders have drastically increased and I even received orders from Singapore," he said when met at his home in Kampung Teluk Kepayang, Bota Kiri here today.

Osman said Tanjak Keriasi and Tengkolok Warisan were made from songket and cotton.

Prices range between RM70 and RM100 for cotton, while songket tengkolok are priced between RM100 and RM180.

"Tengkolok is suitable to wear with the traditional baju Melayu. Wearing tengkolok is not old-fashioned. Wearing it helps one preserve the Malay culture. I want to save this art from fading away," he added.

Osman hopes the younger generation will learn the art of tengkolok folding so that the knowledge can be passed down to generations to come.

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