Despite its name, the menu at Kemaman Classic Kopitiam does not restrict itself to Terengganu fare, writes Ewe Paik Leong
IT’S teatime and I’m sitting in Kemaman Classic Kopitiam waiting for paung Terengganu, Kemaman coffee and mini roti canai. The tables around me are new, topped with marble slabs. The stools and chairs feature designs of a bygone era but they are also new.
One wall displays three rattan bubu or fish traps, presumably to inject a Terengganu flavour to the cafe’s decor. But I feel a turtle would be more to the point.
My order arrives. Paung Terengganu turns out to be buns that are accompanied by butter and a dollop of kaya. One bite of a bun releases a dull flavour which makes me sink into gloom. Something has been added to the dough and that something has destroyed its taste. Slathers of kaya — insipid and flat in itself — are unable to put life into the bun, which is coarse inside.
Next, the mini roti canai passes muster. The two small pieces of roti canai are ordinary but are lifted from mundanity by the chicken curry which bristles with buzzy spices. Things end on a high note with the Kemaman coffee that delightfully punches me on the nose with its robust, charcoallike aroma. The bitterness of the coffee comes as a nuance which milk further mellows.
Despite its name, the kopitiam’s menu shows that it tries to please everybody and tries to be everything.
There are roti naik, roti kiap, sandwiches (chicken, cheese or egg), French toast and half-boiled eggs for breakfast.
Then the kitchen tours to Indonesia (penyet set of various kinds, bakso urat, nasi ambeng, etc), to the West (fish fillet set, black pepper chicken chop, pan-fried fish, lemon chicken chop), to Thailand (nasi goreng Pattaya, nasi goreng tomyam, etc) before coming back to our shores (nasi dagang, nasi kerabu, nasi lemak, Cantonese style braised rice and Cantonese style kway teow).
Beverages include ice-blended drinks, milk shakes and sodas, but no soft drinks.
SECOND TO GO
On my second visit, I go for nasi ambeng which is served with begedil, ayam masak merah, ayam goreng, ayam masak kicap, sambal Jawa, serunding kelapa, hard-boiled egg and sambal tumis. This dish yanks me into the vortex of a culinary hurricane!
There are earthy and nutty flavours from the begedil; a burst of tang and mint from the ayam masak merah; a slight crunch of charisma from the ayam goreng; a comforting stroke on the cheek from the ayam masak kicap; and a nutty murmur from the sambal Jawa.
Then there’s a citrusy flavour from the kaffir-lime-spiked serunding kelapa that sings melodiously on the tongue; the blandness of hard-boiled egg that brings me down to earth and the jolting chili-heat of sambal tumis that comes as a thrilling whack. Phew!
Assam laksa rounds off my meal. This bowl of noodles, onions, cucumber, pineapples and chillies is grounded in dull dry spices, and my expectation of vivid layered flavours is not fulfilled. However, adding prawn paste slightly invigorates this dish.
THREE A LUCKY NUMBER
On my third visit, when bawal penyet set is laid on my table, I feel like calling the food police! This dish is not as per specs as the fried pomfret is not smashed! Okay, I’m kidding but you get my point.
As, in general, fried bawal lacks crispiness as compared to the fried chicken, the culinary equation becomes unbalanced when the former replaces the latter. Encumbered with the limp bawal, this dish cannot exploit its full potential though the other ingredients are spot on.
Next, a bowl of bakso urat — described as “Padang-style beef balls” — is accompanied by three types of sauces: sambal, chilli and dark soya. The denseness and richness of the beef balls balance the moderately clear soup that carries a peppery undertone. Dipping the beef balls separately in the three sauces adds an element of intrigue to the dish.
As I sip my Bandung cincau after my meal, I turn to gaze at the several empty tables. The cafe deserves more customers, its nasi ambeng is amazing.
FAST FACTS
Kemaman Classic Kopitiam
2nd Floor, Main Place Mall, Jalan USJ 21/10, Subang Jaya Tel 012-313 6435
HOURS 10am to 10pm daily
FOOD Fusion of Malay, Chinese and Western fare
PICK Nasi ambeng, bakso urat and Kemaman coffee
PAY RM12.90 to RM28.90 for nasi ambeng (depending on size); RM8.90 to RM13.90 for other noodle and rice dishes.
MOOD Cheery, clean and casual
SERVICE Prompt but stiff
I SAY Go give it a try