Muar, heart of a small town

THE rain lightly pelts my window just as dawn is breaking outside. I lie snugly in my hotel bed in Muar, the venerable, ancient town located at the estuary of the Muar River.

I doze off for another hour or so before I get awakened once more by morning light streaming through the large windows by my bed. Does travel get any better than this?

The town hasn't awakened yet. The strangeness of watching this little town come to life as the sun rises from the East makes me romanticise a watchfulness about the place that I'm staying in.

It would be fanciful to speak of Classic Hotel as "bearing witness" to the times and tides of Muar, unless we imagine what has witnessed them in all this time.

For about a quarter of the century, the three-star hotel has stood as a watchful sentinel over the town; observing while immersing itself within the town's lively cacophony.

Located in the heart of Muar, Classic Hotel looms over the gabled rooftops of old colonial buildings and newer buildings, a landmark of sorts that draws weary travellers within its walls and gently turning their sights towards this little town teeming with hidden treasures.

The town suddenly springs to life as the sunlight fills the street below my window. Shutters roll up and it's business as usual as people start thronging the once-quiet street.

I have a busy day today but the comfortable king-sized bed I'm lying on begs to keep me within its lush covers for just a few more minutes.

"We've prepared a programme we certainly hope will be of interest, and an invitation to gain weight," promised Simon Juanito Buenaventura, the general manager in his welcome letter thoughtfully placed in my room.

There's much to explore, he promises, and the itinerary speaks volumes of what Muar has to offer. It may just be a normal ordinary little Malaysian town, functionally identical to every other. But look closer.

With plenty of heritage architecture and an infectiously languorous mood, the royal town (also known as Bandar Maharani, or "Empress Town") was historically a very important commercial centre.

So important in fact that it had its own rail system known as Muar State Railways, which ran from 1889 to 1925.

With each road in its central core painted a certain colour, Muar is very pretty and well worth spending a day or two exploring. It was also voted the cleanest city in the Asean region in 2018.

Muar, says Buenaventura, makes for an intriguing and rewarding off-the-beaten-track stop between Melaka and Johor Baru.

The real lure of Muar, however, is the fact that it's slowly rising to become the nation's gastro-destination.

From the famous Sup Gearbox Kambing, traditional otak-otak, Assam Pedas, satay (for breakfast, no less!), Mee Bandung to fresh seafood, you're certainly spoilt for choice!

There's also the 100-metre stretch along Jalan Haji Abu with Jalan Meriam at the northern end and Jalan Ali in the south known as Muar's Glutton street, offering a wide variety of local delicacies for hungry patrons including pork satay, chicken rice, oyster omelette, among the decent array of Chinese hawker fare.

When a town has an area called "Glutton Street" (bestowed by the local Chinese residents), you know things are serious!

But any great travel adventure begins — of course — with the choice of hotel. What I love about Classic Hotel is the southern hospitality, which I think is intrinsic to Bangsa Johor culture. It isn't stiff or formal, but rather honest and from the heart, which puts you in relax mode right away.

It goes without saying that while the hotel itself is modest in many aspects (there's no pool nor gym offered), I like the feel of the place, which is charming and slightly out of step with the times.

RELAXING STAY

The spacious room ticks all my boxes, boasting a deceptively comfortable king-sized bed and floor-to-ceiling drapes to draw across expansive windows offering town and river views depending on where you're located between levels five and eight of the nine-storey building.

The bathroom features a spacious shower and bathtub combo, which gives you the option of a quick shower or a long luxurious soak after a hectic day.

Opened in 1996, the hotel underwent a full refurbishment in 2018 to enhance its looks and facilities.

There are 156 newly-renovated, spacious rooms, which are equipped with complimentary high-speed WiFi, creating a perfect sanctuary to unwind after a high-energy day of work meetings or exploring the town.

A local coffee house on the ground floor serves the famous Muar 434 Coffee and local cuisines.

My favourite part? The hotel is located just next to the town's premier shopping mall (Wetex Parade) and is within walking distance to all key attractions and famous eateries such as Muar Uptown and Glutton Street.

Throughout my stay, the affable general manager and his team of friendly hotel staff are at hand to take me through the town and experience Muar's charms first-hand.

"The hotel's location is its number one asset," says Buenaventura, smiling.

"We wanted to do something apart from offering the norm — hotel rooms, beds, banquets, weddings, residential seminars. Guests want to feel like they're experiencing the local flavour. They want it to be memorable and part of the local scene, not like they're tourists."

This "travel experience" is also an extension of a trend where hotels are moving away from a uniform experience, no matter where they are, to one in which properties blend into their communities and offer travellers access to local art spaces and businesses.

As we're walking through the night bazaar at Uptown Maharani Muar, the sights are not unlike what we might encounter at Petaling Street, Kuala Lumpur.

But there's a difference, insists Buenaventura. "You don't find foreigners manning the stalls."

It's the locals who ply their trade here in this long colourful stretch of stalls selling anything from food, beverages to souvenirs and clothes.

Walking the town with the general manager and his team feels less like venue-hopping and more like dropping in for a catch-up with a series of food-loving old friends.

Everywhere you go (whether it's the Muar Soup House with its robust, steaming hot soups or the Cendol Kampung Hulu with its sublime cendol and all its glorious sweet trappings), the experience is as convivial as it is culinary. And it's not just food either.

The real secret of Muar is its "small town" vibe where, like the sitcom Cheers, "everybody knows your name." And if they don't, they're still keen on learning your name. Muar's residents are some of the friendliest people I've encountered. They're intensely proud of their home and are so excited to meet visitors.

A clear case in point was when the Muar Municipal Council was willing to switch on the glittering park lights at the Dataran Tanjung Emas specifically for our little group to experience (the park is currently closed due to the pandemic).

With friendly locals, great food and a certain laidback charm, Muar has much to offer and according to Buenaventura, it's slowly making its name as a unique destination for tourists, both local and foreign.

"It's got the main street, the beautiful murals, pre-war buildings and small businesses, the river — all the elements that one imagines when they think of that warm and fuzzy small town that somebody left to go to the big city and comes back and reconnects with their roots," he enthuses.

As we head back to the hotel after a long day of food-tasting and walking around the town, the street slowly starts to empty. Night falls and with it, comes the tranquil silence of small towns.

As Muar settles in for the night, the warm and cosy room at Classic Hotel beckons.

Tomorrow's another day. The town will wake up like clockwork and there's still more to explore and discover in this ordinary town when the sun rises again — if you look hard enough. Travel certainly doesn't get better than this.

MUAR'S GASTRO DELIGHTS

MUAR SOUP HOUSE

47, Jalan Sisi, Pekan Muar

RUDDY and thick, the piquant, cosy and hearty soups offered in this outlet hit you in the same satisfying way.

The Famous Muar Soup House, which started as a typical pedicab stall in 1958, is located at Jalan Sisi and around the corner from Classic Hotel.

Recommendation: Sup Gearbox Kambing (Mutton marrow soup) loaded with generous chunks of tender mutton and complete with a straw to draw out all the marrow goodness!

The beef and chicken soups are just as delicious. Served with either bread or rice.

CENDOL KAMPUNG HULU

Jalan Sisi, Pekan Muar

LOCATED in the picturesque back alley of Muar town with beautiful murals lighting up the walls, Cendol Kampung Hulu offers the delightful local dessert in many variations.

The coconut-milk dessert is served cold and is perfect for hot days, with the toppings leaning towards local fruits, such as dragon fruit, durian or even sea coconut.

Recommendation: The durian cendol is laden with actual durian fruit, which makes this an absolute experience for durian lovers. The sea coconut cendol is a close runner-up. What's not to like about cendol anyway?

SATAY WARISAN

13, Jalan Majidi, Pekan Muar

FANCY satay for breakfast? Muar might be the only town on the map offering this anomaly.

Delicious aromatic beef or chicken meat on skewers, barbequed over coal fire and served up with delicious spicy peanut sauce, makes for an interesting brekkie choice.

But judging from the packed-to-the-brim restaurant, it's probably the breakfast of choice for the locals!

Don't forget to try their soto ayam (spicy chicken soup with cubed rice, chicken and bean sprouts), lontong (compressed rice cake cooked in banana leaf) and mee rebus (noodle dish in a sweet potato-based gravy).

Recommendation: Satay of course! A little spicier and a lot more aromatic than what you'd usually get around Klang Valley, the satay serves a hearty albeit a rather rich breakfast in the morning.

MUARYI TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE

33, Jalan Ali, Pekan Muar

IF you're tired of simply eating and wish to gain a little know-how on how to make traditional delights like otak-otak (a blend of spices and fish paste, traditionally wrapped in nipah leaves and grilled over a charcoal fire), why not take part in the DIY workshop here instead?

Here, you'll learn about the history of otak-otak in Muar while packing the delicious mackerel fish paste into strips of nipah leaves.

Recommendation: The workshop, of course! And the fact that you get to eat as much otak-otak as you can pack in those tiny strips of leaves. If you're lucky enough to visit them during durian season, you could taste the famous Muar D13 durians. Otherwise, they might just have the frozen version (which taste just as good!).

TANJUNG EMAS MEDAN SELERA

Tanjung Emas, Muar

THE nondescript hawker centre may not look like much but judging from the crowd, it's in all likelihood a jewel in the rough.

There's a variety of dishes to try from the stalls, including the very delicious Assam Pedas. The fish is fresh and served with a tangy, savoury and spicy gravy.

Other must-tries include their Mee Bandung (yellow noodles served with egg and a thick broth-gravy made from a combination of dried shrimps, onion, spices, shrimp paste and chillies) and Rojak Petis (a tangy fruit and vegetable salad with a sticky and sweet black fermented shrimp paste as dressing).

Recommendation: The Assam Pedas of course and Mee Bandung. The original and authentic version of Mee Bandung served in Muar District is still considered the best!

SAI KEE KOPI 434 MUAR

121, Jalan Maharani, Muar

COFFEE lovers need not look any further. Founded in 1953, Sai Kee Coffee's founder Kiar Am Sai started his coffee roasting business in a double-storey wooden house at Jalan Ismail, Muar.

His signature product Kopi Cap 434 remains a favourite brew among the locals.

Recommendation: Do try the Queen's Coffee! A unique blend of medium roasted beans, it's topped with a coffee flower, which lends a subtle and sweet aroma.

The coffee packs quite a punch too! The locally-sourced Elephant Bean coffee comes a close second although not quite as pretty looking as the floral inspired Queen's Coffee of course!

elena@nst.com.my

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