A trip to Kuala Kedah opens Alan Teh Leam Seng’s eyes to its numerous attractions which include fresh and affordable seafood
THE timing could not be more perfect. I am about to reach the highest point of Jambatan Tok Pasai when the first rays of the sun begin to pierce through the horizon, heralding the start of a new day.
This gleaming white bridge is the pride of the people of Kuala Kedah.
It is a symbol of progress in this sleepy hamlet where hordes of tourists stop briefly to catch the ferry to the island paradise of Langkawi. But I am not in Kuala Kedah for the boat trip. I have something more important to do.
The other day, my friend let me in on a secret. A group of us were having coffee at our usual warung (stall) hangout when the topic on the exorbitant prices of seafood surfaced.
Ragil expressed surprise that we did not know where to get cheap and fresh seafood even though we have lived in Alor Star all our lives.
All heads turned towards him in unison. The silence was deafening as we waited in anticipation for him to reveal his secret.
The Kuala Kedah pasar pagi (morning market) has been around for a long time but not many people know about it because of its obscure location.
The morning market is not in Kuala Kedah town itself. This is the main reason why many fail to find it. The market is actually on the opposite side of the Kedah River. The easiest and most scenic way is via Jambatan Tok Pasai.
“Take the first left turn the moment you reach the end of the bridge. Continue driving for about 150m and the market will be within sight,” said Ragil, reminding us to go early as finding a suitable parking space will be challenging along the narrow road leading up to the market.
TO THE MARKET
I am glad I took Ragil's advice. The road is indeed narrow and the situation is made worse with children riding their bicycles as if they are kings on the road.
Finally, I find a suitable parking space right next to a cluster of food stalls.
The smell of freshly baked pancakes wafting in the air is enough to make me hungry. As I have not had breakfast, now seems like a good time to relax and have a hearty one.
The apom lenggang stall manned by two teenage boys draws me in like a magnet. I am game for something new and their grated cheese version looks promising.
I order the set which consists of five pieces of freshly-prepared pancakes with generous cheese toppings. They are a bargain at RM4. I like the way the cheese melts and gives the pancakes a rich creamy taste.
I finish my kopi-O panas and head towards the stalls. I start with the ones selling seafood at the wooden jetty beside Alor Melaka which is a small tributary of the Kedah River. The sheltered stalls here are exclusive to members of the local cooperative who are all fishermen.
Most of the people here were affected by the great Asian Tsunami of 2004. They lost their homes, boats and fishing equipment. Their lives were turned upside down in the aftermath of that fateful Boxing Day catastrophe.
Two years later, they moved into the new cluster homes just beside this market. Incidentally, this pasar pagi began as a result of their relocation in 2006. The cooperative encouraged the fishermen and their families to start their own business on this strategic plot of land which was idle at that time.
Aided by Fama (Federal Agricultural Marketing Authority) and other related government agencies, this market provides an avenue for fishermen to bypass the brokers.
This allows them to market their catch directly to the public at a relatively cheaper price compared to markets in Alor Star. Initially, there were just a handful of stalls but today the number has ballooned to more than 30.
A quick survey reveals an amazing array of fresh seafood on offer. Price-wise, I can say that my ringgit is going further today than it has in a very long time. In less than half an hour, I have several kilogrammes of ikan temenung safely packed in my ice box.
The fish are unbelievably fresh judging from the clarity of their eyes and slime-covered bodies. I also buy squid, large prawns and several slices of ikan merah or red snapper. I spend a grand total of less than RM50.
I am sure the amount will be at least double had I bought the same from my usual market.
TO THE MUSEUM
With my shopping assignment duly completed, I decide to check out the nearby Kota Kuala Kedah historical complex.
This red brick fort is clearly visible to holiday-makers each time the Langkawi bound ferry chugs out of the estuary.
Kota Kuala Kedah is especially significant as it is the only surviving Malay-built stockade from the 18th century in our country.
The fort's strategic location allows it to guard the entrance to the Kedah River. Over the centuries, foreign forces like the Achenese, Siamese and Bugis have attempted to gain control of this fort which was built during the reign of Sultan Abdullah Mukarram Shah.
I suggest visiting the museum first. It is housed in a handsome single-storey wooden building which once served as the village school.
From the many interesting exhibits, I find out that there was an earlier fort built on this same site by the Portuguese.
I am taken aback by this revelation. Perhaps the Portuguese were in Kedah in the 16th century for the lucrative spice trade. At that time, Kedah was one of the major pepper producers in the region.
Before leaving I decide to take a walk around the fort perimeter to get a feel of the fort size.
I like the original brick work and the lighthouse which is designed to look like a chess piece.
I remember reading at the museum earlier that the mortar used to hold the bricks together was made from sand, egg white and honey!
I wonder if modern-day contractors would be willing to adopt this time tested concoction to improve on their workmanship. After all, this fort built in 1771 has managed to stand the test of time.
It is already starting to get crowded by the time I head back to the car park.
I see many families among the arriving visitors. Obviously they are taking advantage of the weekend. While a vast majority are here to visit at the ancient fort and spend quality time with their loved ones, others come for an entirely different reason.
A small group, comprising mostly teenagers, is armed to the teeth with pails, fishing rods, ice boxes and bait.
I pause a moment and turn towards the shoreline and observe for several minutes. The increasing water level indicates that the tide is turning. The anglers have timed their arrival perfectly.
Most of them head towards the recently restored sea wall and set up their stuff. Schools of ravenous fish will soon be heading up the estuary and the young anglers will be ready with their irresistible sand worm bait.
As for me, I am ready to bid Kuala Kedah farewell but based on my experiences today I will surely be back again very soon.
Pictures by ALAN TEH LEAM SENG