David Bowden relives a bygone era via Puffing Billy, one of the world’s finest preserved steam railways, in Melbourne
I’VE read that they are called ferroequinologists and while I don’t profess to be a card-carry member of the trainspotting brigade, I do like a train journey all the same.
My Latin is a bit rusty but even I know that ferro has to do with iron; and equine, something to do with horses — so combine the two and you have iron horse which is a euphemism for a train. So ologist completes the meaning which is someone who likes trains.
Over the years, I’ve travelled on many iconic trains and while I haven’t had the pleasure of meeting any Agatha Christie or Hercule Poirot types on board, I’ve enjoyed some amazing journeys.
Australia is a vast country as I discovered while researching my latest book Great Railway Journeys in Australia and New Zealand that has just had a global release.
In the many weeks spent in Australia, I travelled 4,352km over four days on the iconic Indian Pacific from Perth to Sydney, I spend 48 hours travelling from Townsville to Mount Isa and back without a break and, also spent just a matter of minutes on the delightful Cockle Train from Victor Harbor to Goolwa in South Australia.
For me, there’s no better way of exploring a country than on trains. So it was only natural that when I was in Victoria I just had to ride the Puffing Billy in the Dandenong Ranges on the forested outskirts of Melbourne.
AUSTRALIA’S FAVOURITE TRAIN
Nobody knows how the name Puffing Billy came about (apart from the fact that it belches out black smoke) but everyone knows the train to be one of Melbourne’s most popular tourist attractions.
This relic from the past entered service with the Victorian Railways in 1900 to transport passengers and cargo (mostly potatoes and timber) through the hilly district between Gembrook and Upper Ferntree Gully to the east of Melbourne.
By 1930, the line was already a liability to the state railway and after a landslide in 1953 the decision was made to close the railway in 1954.
Not one to give up easily, a preservation society was formed and the line reopened in 1962 and has since, carried millions of eager passengers from all around the world (it averages over 400,000 passengers per year).
Today, Puffing Billy is one of the world’s finest preserved steam railways. It commenced operations in 1900 and operates every day of the year except Christmas Day.
Its return journey from Belgrave to Lakeside covers 26km through towering eucalypt forests, tree fern-lined gullies, farmland and small acreage residential properties in the Dandenong Ranges.
One of the attractions is that passengers young and old can enjoy in safety the possibility of extending their legs over the side of the open-sided train (with protective railing) travelling at no more than 15km/hour.
Admiring the train at different times of the years is another appeal as there can be dramatic changes in the weather and the colours of the foliage. Enjoy a myriad of autumnal hues and the crispy misty atmosphere of winter.
This, not-for-profit train operated by the Emerald Tourist Railway Board in conjunction with the Puffing Billy Preservation Society employs 100 full-time staff supplemented by the hardworking efforts of over 900 volunteers.
THE TRAIN
The Belgrave to Gembrook line was one of four experimental narrow gauge lines opened to develop rural Victoria.
Five Baldwin steam trains designed in the US are operated by the railway and supplemented by three diesel trains on days when total fire bans are in place. Some were built in the US and imported while others were built in Victoria. Baldwin trains were built in Pennsylvania by Baldwin which happened to be one of the world’s largest steam train producers.
Steam trains are painted in different colours and numbered 6A (black), 7A (Canadian red), 8A (green), 12A (Canadian red) and 14A (black).
Various restored heritage carriages are hauled by the locomotive and feature open sides plus informative guides and route maps. Both first and second class coaches operate but there is no differentiation in pricing.
All the main stations have well-stocked restrooms serving hot and cold snacks and beverages plus souvenirs.
THE JOURNEY
Most Puffing Billy journeys start in Belgrave, 42km from Melbourne with electric Melbourne Metro trains providing a one-hour connecting link (the steam train station is a short walk from the Metro Station).
Various travel options are available with most passengers travelling on the Belgrave-Lakeside-Belgrave service that takes about three hours.
Belgrave Station is normally a hive of activity prior to the train’s departure with trains being shunted and refuelled at the locomotive running shed and workshop here and, passengers refuelling themselves at the well-stocked restroom and souvenir shop.
Not long after departure, the train crosses the iconic 15-span, Monbulk Creek trestle bridge (91m) which is suitably curved to enable good photography especially from the rear of the train. The train passes through Sherbrooke Forest with its majestic stands of towering Mountain Ash eucalypts (the world’s tallest flowering plant) and an understorey of luxuriant ferns.
Menzies Creek Station, 30 minutes from Belgrave is the first stop and a place where trains often cross. Continuing, the train passes through Clematis Station and the Paradise Hotel before pulling into Emerald Station, the highest station on the line and a railway repair yard.
Nobelius Packing Shed, a venue for dinner and dance excursion trains is passed before the train pulls into Lakeside.
Here, the steam train takes on water while passengers alight and take in the fresh air at Emerald Lake Park or even walk the trails and picnic spots here and rejoin a later train back to Belgrave.
Passengers who continue on the Gembrook train will pass through Wright, Cockatoo and Fielder before reaching the former timber town of Gembrook. The train stops here for an hour for passengers to explore the historic town.
Daily departures from Belgrave to Lakeside leave at 10.30am, 12.30pm and 2.30pm with a one-hour stop at Lakeside Station. Various excursion trains also operate in addition to the scheduled services.