The State Wildlife Nature Park of Lembah Jemaloi in Jelebu, Negri Sembilan promises enjoyment to all manner of nature lovers, writes Zulkifly Ab Lati
THE hammock sways from side to side as I turn over inside it in a foetal position, hoping to find more warmth under the sleeping bag that I am using as a blanket. I do not know what the temperature is, but the mercury must surely be dropping since I feel extremely cold.
Although I have learnt that sleeping in hammocks is almost always a cold experience, thanks to the cool night air, I find that tonight is a particularly cold and almost unpleasant experience. So cold in fact that I cough myself awake.
A shaft of white light suddenly pierces the thick black night. It is Hardy Adrian’s headlamps she picks up pieces of wood and throws them in to the embers of a dying campfire. The wood smokes briefly then catches fire, and the campsite is illuminated again by flickering and dancing orange flames. I wiggle out of my hammock and make my way to the fire, like a moth to a flame.
A nature photographer and collaborating researcher at SEENature, Universiti Kebangsaan Malaysia, Hardy does not seem surprised to see me up and awake. “Too cold for you, too?” he asks. I answer yes and sit next to the crackling fire, its heat giving a pleasant respite from the frigid air. I look at my watch and notice that it is only 2am, still hours away until the jungle around me returns to being hot and humid.
It is only the first night of my three-day hammock camping in Lembah Jemaloi, a state wildlife nature park located in Jelebu, Negri Sembilan, and it is already proving to be an unforgettable one. The campsite I am spending the night at is called Sungai Damar, a serene spot next to a majestic fall some 20 metres tall.
About 2½ hours’ hike from the nature park’s entrance, the river and falls make Sungai Damar one of the more rewarding spots to camp in when visiting Taman Alam Liar Lembah Jemaloi. For those looking for a different view, there is also a small overgrown trail next to the campsite that leads all the way up to Sungai Damar falls.
KILLING THE NIGHT
From Sungai Damar, we make our way to Sungai Kering, our second campsite and also the starting point to the trail up Gunung Besar Hantu. At 1,462m high, Gunung Besar Hantu or Big Ghost Mountain is Negri Sembilan’s highest mountain and is a popular attraction for hikers looking for challenge and adventure.
I am following Hardy and his two colleagues camping here not to climb the mountain, but instead to explore the surrounding area, looking for interesting critters to be catalogued and photographed.
Hardy tells me several scientific expeditions involving the forestry and local universities have been organised here, signifying Lembah Jemaloi’s importance as an irreplaceable repository for flora and fauna.
Sungai Kering (which means “dry river” in Malay) is a shallow current of clear spring water, churning between boulders and longfallen trees.
Having picked suitable trees, I begin tying my hammock’s ropes when I notice something imbedded into the tree trunk further above. It is a dart from a traditional blowpipe, a hunting tool of the Orang Asli, or aboriginal people of Malaysia. Located near the nature park are three villages of the Temuan tribe of Orang Asli, with some of the villagers still venturingintothejungles toforage andhunt.
Making my way to the river I discover other objects that were also left behind by other visitors although they are intensely less interesting than a blowpipe dart — water bottles, energy drink cans, plastic food containers and wrappers. With an increase in park visits for recreational activities, litter is understandably a problem but nevertheless, it is a disappointing and frustrating sight.
Darkness blankets the jungle interior. Dinner is under torchlight and headlamps. It is a delectable spread prepared by Mohamed “Bear” Azam, a seasoned outdoorsman who has been on many adventures. Affectionately called Bear, his deep voice booms with mirth whenever a humorous anecdote is told by the rest of us.
“This is a nice spot, we should camp here\ again, ”Bear announces. When Bear, who has camped in other far more remote wilderness, says a return visit here is worthwhile,I silently
take note.
Hardy stands up and announces that it is time to go to work. He specialises in macro photography of small insects and reptiles. With a good headlamp, sharp eyes and patience, a night time hike in the rainforest can reveal a treasure trove of nocturnal creepy crawlies.
Taking the trail from Sungai Kering that heads up to Gunung Besar Hantu, I follow Hardy and Mohd Faidz, who is better known by his trail name of Chitot. Chitot, who is an avid hiker, has now developed an interest in jungle insects and reptiles.
Having summited the mountain numerous times, Chitot is familiar with the trail and acts as the guide. He informs me that there is another campsite further up the trail named Orchid Camp, where most hikers would spend the night before attempting to reach the peak of Gunung Besar Hantu.
We walk in a slow and deliberate pace with our headlamps scanning the branches and damp leaves of the jungle on each side of the trail. Throughout the walk, Hardy or Chitot would suddenly stop and scrutinise something between the verdant green foliage before moving on.
Hardy finally discovers a worthwhile find when he spots a small spider. “That’s a huntsman spider, Heterepoda Davidbowie,” Hardy says.
“David Bowie? As in the singer?” I ask, amused.
“Yes,” he answers, then laughs.
Described in 2008 from a specimen collected in 2007 near Cameron Highlands, Pahang, the spider is named in honour of the late English songwriter, singer and actor, in due part to his album The Rise And Fall of Ziggy Stardust and the Spiders From Mars (which I’ve listened to) as an attempt to draw attention to the marginal status of many spider species whose habitats are threatened by human activities.
Our search continues well into the night, and we discover stick insects, tree frogs and jungle geckoes before finally reaching a river running across the mountain trail.
“Let’s call it a night. Any farther, we might end up at the peak,” Chitot jokes.
SOAKING IN THE COLD WATER
After a quick scan of the camping site on our final night at the State Wildlife Nature Park of Lembah Jemaloi, Hardy, Bear and Chitot decide to make some changes to the accommodation plans. Instead of spending the night in Lata Kijang, the grand 80m-tall waterfall that feeds into the Kenaboi river which runs through the forest reserve, we make our way back to the main entrance of the park.
The fall is accessible by foot as well as off-road vehicles about an hour from the entrance of the park. Often confused with Lata Kinjan, which is another magnificent fall located in Perak, Lata Kijang is a frothy cascade of water that plunges into a valley, its outer fringe covered with dense tropical vegetation.
Chitot informs me that there used to be amenitiessuchasahallandeventoiletsnear the riverbank, but these were washed away a few years ago by a strong column of water known colloquially as “kepala air”. Exploring between the boulders of the river valley, I can see remnants of fallen trees and roots, a silent reminder of Lata Kijang’s past temper.
Although grand in scale and scenic, I find there is not much to do in Lata Kijang other than take in the sights and photography. The river’s pools are much too small for an enjoyable dip, and the many boulders make camping space very limited.
Back at the park’s entrance, various amenities and buildings such as a carpark, multi-use hall, restrooms, dorms and campsite have been built for visitors, all clustered next to the Kenaboi River.
Crossing a hanging bridge, we find a suitable spot near one bend of the pristine river to setup camp for the night. The riverbank here gently slopes into the Kenaboi River, which is now wide and reasonably deep enough for a cool refreshing swim.
I join Bear in the river as he soaks in the soothing water. “Yes, this is much better than what we had planned,” says Bear, referring to our aborted plans to camp at the more remote locale of Lata Kijang. I whole-heartedly agree with him, and I can also easily imagine other visitors enjoying a relaxing family camping trip or perhaps a picnic at this particular spot.
With so many different attractions such as roughing it out near Sungai Damar, looking for critters near Gunung Besar Hantu, taking in the majestic Lata Kijang or simply relaxing beside the Kenaboi River, the State Wildlife Nature Park of Lembah Jemaloi in Jelebu, Negri Sembilan promises enjoyment to all categories of nature lovers.
FAST FACTS: TAMAN ALAM LIAR LEMBAH JEMALOI
ENCOMPASSING 380 hectares of forest, the State Wildlife Nature Park of Lembah Jemaloi is part of the tail end of the Titiwangsa Range, Peninsular Malaysia’s back bone and largest remaining continuous forest tract. A protected and important forest reserve, visitors are required to secure entry permits from the Jelebu district forestry office before entering.
Located within Jelebu district in Negri Sembilan, State Wildlife Nature Park of Lembah Jemaloi is 63 kilometres from the town of Kuala Klawang and 100km from Seremban.
For nature photographic excursions, contact Hardy Adrian A.Chin at 011-157 19691 or email hardy.backyardgeo@gmail.com
Pejabat Hutan Daerah,
Negri Sembilan Utara,
71600, Kuala Klawang Jelebu,
Negri Sembilan
TEL/FAX 06-613 6500
EMAIL ekopelancongan@ns.gov.my
WEBSITE http://forestry.ns.gov.my/index.php/my/info-jabatan/pelancongan/taman-al...