Alan Teh Leam Seng visits Prime Minister Tun Dr Mahathir Mohamad’s hometown for a glimpse of his childhood
Something seems a miss when I park my motorcycle at Rumah Kelahiran Mahathir’s designated parking lot along Jalan Kilang Ais.
The birthplace of our beloved Prime Minister Tun Dr Mahathir Mohamad, which is usually full of vehicles, is completely deserted. Passing the anomaly off as the effect of a mid-week working day in the Kedah state capital, I head towards my intended destination.
Stopping momentarily to admire a pair of golden orioles near the walking path, I am totally oblivious to the looming disappointment that lies ahead. A few metres ahead, the large “CLOSED” sign stops me dead in my tracks.
An accompanying notice put up by the National Archives explains that renovations and upgrading work are in progress. Left with nothing but despair, my next best option is to look for the elusive house through the gaps in the gate.
The simple and unassuming birthplace of our country’s leader slowly comes into view.
Separated by mere metres, I start to rue the missed opportunity.
Then, just a sIam preparing to go home disappointed, aman walks out into the open armed with a broom, dustpan and a huge black garbage bag. He walks forward after noticing my presence and starts explaining the closure.
LITTLE HOUSE
Grabbing the opportunity to gather more information, I quickly strike up a conversation and soon learn that the house was built at the turn of the 20th century.
When Dr Mahathir’s father, Mohamad Iskandar, bought over the house for his growing family, it only had a solitary bedroom and did not have any electrical supply.
Standing on stilts, the elevated flooring consisted of thick wooden planks while up above, large pieces of white cloth under the attap roof formed the ceiling.
It is not difficult to imagine the situation in the house on the day Dr Mahathir was born.
The air in the bedroom must have been a crid with the thick smell of incense which was commonly used by midwives at that time to relieve labour pains.
The cries heralding Dr Mahathir’s birth on July 10, 1925 must have brought joy and relief to his father, siblings and everyone else in the house.
As a child, Dr Mahathir and his eight siblings grew up under the watchful eye of their mother, Wan Tempawan Wan Hanafi, who came from a long line of Kedah royal household courtiers. Being the youngest in the family, Dr Mahathir was given the affectionate nickname, Cek Det.
According to my new friend, the National Archives did a wonderful job when they restored and gazetted the house as a historical building back in 1992.
The simple but yet comfortable furnishings were properly refurbished and arranged to give visitors a once-in-a-lifetime peek into the early life of Dr Mahathir and his family.
The house is an important repository where implements from DrMahathir’s childhood are preserved for the benefit of future generations. Souvenirs and important memorabilia related to our revered leader’s days as a student are also on display in the living room cupboard.
Noticing my insatiable appetite for things related to Dr Mahathir, the caretaker quickly rattles off a list of places around Alor Star that I should visit. His effortless endeavour makes me believe that this is definitely not his first attempt.
The caretaker’s last piece of advice is for me to start by tracing the origins of Dr Mahathir’s alma mater, Alor Star’s Government English School and then slowly work my way to the other recommended places.
BACK TO SCHOOL
The school’s original site is located right in the middle of town but the tiny wooden building that once accommodated up to 50 students is long gone. In its place is a well-kept lawn spanning the distance between the Balai Nobat and Sultan Abdul Halim Gallery (former State Supreme Court).
Standing by the grassy edge, it takes little imagination to picture the school’s first headmaster, Dr Mahathir’s father, throwing open the doors on opening day to welcome his students on Dec 8, 1908.
Just like the newly refurbished Dataran Merdeka in front of the nearby Balai Besar this place is now popular with local residents taking leisure walks in the evenings.
Due to its strategic location directly opposite the 106-year-old Masjid Zahir, this entire area becomes a hive of activity during Ramadan where people of all races come together to partake in a daily mass iftar potluck.
Retracing Persiaran Sultan Abdul Hamid, I head towards Jalan Penjara Lama. According to records, Ku Baharuddin’s house on this road became home to the Government English School when its former building near Dataran Merdeka exceeded capacity in 1911.
More than a century has passed and no one today can tell the exact location of Ku Baharuddin’s home. One thing for sure, this place has recently experienced a revival of sorts and is now home to a bevy of hipster cafes and upmarket restaurants.
Owing to a marked increase in enrolment over the next four years, the Jalan Penjara Lama site soon ran out of space. In 1915, a 30-acre (about 12 hectares) plot on the school’s current site along Jalan Langgar was earmarked for development. Lessons formally began on Jan 1, 1917.
DrMahathir began his primary education at the Seberang Perak Malay Boys School in 1930. Owing to his superior command of the English language and competence in other subjects, he gained admission into the Government English School in 1933.
On Oct 25, 1935 Dr Mahathir and his peers had the once-in-a lifetime opportunity of witnessing his school’s name changed to Sultan Abdul Hamid College, in honour of the state’s ruling monarch at that time.
Arriving at the school just after noon, I soon discover that it is not a good idea to visit on a school day. My request for a casual walkabout was flatly refused but fortunately, I am granted permission to have a quick look at the school’s new Sultan Abdul Halim Centennial Hall which is just behind the guard house.
While advising me to return during the weekend for another visit, the guards also point me in the direction of another school directly behind Sultan Abdul Hamid College.
Accessible via Jalan Tanjong Bendahara, Sekolah Kebangsaan Iskandar came into existence in 1957 when the large number of students at Sultan Abdul Hamid College warranted a separation between the primary and secondary levels. This primary school was named in recognition of Dr Mahathir’s father’s contributions to the development of Alor Star’s early education.
LARGER THAN LIFE
After a quick banana leaf curry lunch at Annama Stall in Jalan Limbong Kapal, I quickly head off towards Lorong Setar to catch a glimpse of Dr Mahathir’s larger than-life mural. Despite being completed more than three years ago, this 30-metre tall artwork still manages to attract legions of selfie and wefie seekers daily.
Portrayed in a traditional Malay dress and black songkok against the backdrop of a two-storey pre-war shop house, Dr Mahathir’s mural appears to single handedly bring this otherwise quiet street to life.
Moving away from the crowd, I walk a short distance to reach Persiaran Sultan Abdul Hamid. To the locals, this entire area is known as Pekan Melayu. Prior to the turn of the 21st century, the shops here used to enjoy brisk business. Today, however, this place is only a shadow of its past.
Nevertheless, people still visit shop bearing the number 12 as it is the place where Dr Mahathir started the first Malay private clinic in Alor Star.
Opened in1957, Maha Clinic became the place where Dr Mahathir worked tirelessly to give back to society. At times, he not only provided free consultations but also paid for the return fare for his underprivileged patients.
On the way back to Lorong Setar to get my motorcycle, I drop by the old General Post Office to settle my outstanding utility bills. My interest is piqued after noticing several people purchasing the recently released stamps issued in conjunction with Dr Mahathir’s 93rd birthday celebrations.
Priced to reflect Dr Mahathir’s age, these stamps were sold out within days of their release as they are considered precious keepsakes. Luckily the post office here has some left over stock.
With RM5 from each purchase donated to Tabung Harapan Malaysia, I quickly take the opportunity to buy a set and at the same time show my patriotism by contributing to a worthy cause.
Leaving the post office, I ride towards the nearby Pekan Rabu in Jalan Tunku Ibrahim.
Recently opened after a three-year reconstruction period, this was the place where Dr Mahathir spent his time selling snacks during the Japanese Occupation.
One of the most sought items at Pekan Rabu today is the Songkok Style Tun.
Located on the ground floor of the building near the east entrance, Style Tun Songkok Malaysia opens daily from 9am to 7pm.
Owner Sardi Sahar says he uses a thick velvet fabric from South Korea that allows the songkok to be folded easily without compromising its shape. Apart from that,
Songkok Style Tun is also lighter and more comfortable to wear over long periods of time.
My final destination for the day takes me to Dr Mahathir’s personal home which is located in the quiet Alor Star suburb of Titi Gajah. Unsure about its exact location, I decide to stop at a restaurant located directly opposite the junction leading towards the Sultan Abdul Halim Airport.
Restaurant Citarasa TT Gajah owner, Abu Bakar Sidqi bin Zainal Abidin, happily tells me that Dr Mahathir’s house is just three doors away and adds that it is the only one with a police post by the main entrance.
I spend the rest of the afternoon chatting with Abu Bakar Sidqi, learning that Dr Mahathir only moved to Titi Gajah after his marriage to Tun Dr Siti Hasmah Mohamad Ali on Aug 5, 1956. Owing to the deep affection for his mother who still lived at the Lorong Kilang Ais house at that time, the couple always made it a point to commute from Titi Gajah to visit her.
Before leaving, I reveal to Abu Bakar Sidqi the nature of my visit and he immediately beams with pride. Like many Malaysians, he is indeed grateful to Dr Mahathir for coming out of retirement for the beloved nation. Terima kasih, Dr Mahathir.