Gem down south

The quiet Nusajaya landscape of the 1990s has metamorphosised into modern Iskandar Puteri, Johor's new state administrative centre. On a brief visit, Alan Teh Leam Seng is captivated by its many wonders

"JOHOR has developed by leaps and bounds since you left two decades ago," my friend quips as he pulls out of the driveway of his Mount Austin house.

As the wedding reception we attended had ended earlier than expected, he suggests that we take a quick detour to Iskandar Puteri before heading to Senai Airport for my flight home.

During the half-hour drive, he provides an overview of events that led to the establishment of Johor's new administrative centre.

He also tells me to be prepared for a pleasant surprise when we reach our destination.

"The quiet and deserted Nusajaya landscape seen during your daily commute to Singapore for work in the late 1990s is all but gone. In its place are glistening towers, well-designed promenades and grand government buildings that make up Malaysia's 14th city," he gushes, a clear hint of pride in his voice.

WHAT IT WAS THEN

My knowledgeable friend says the name change from Nusajaya to Iskandar Puteri happened in January 2016.

The current name was picked as it was what Johor Baru was known as back in 1855.

At that time, Temenggong Daeng Ibrahim chose the name to honour Sultan Ali Iskandar, Johor's ruling monarch, who had ceded sovereignty rights to most parts of the state to him in exchange for a monthly allowance and formal recognition as the Sultan of Johor by the British.

The name remained for about 11 years until Temenggong Daeng Ibrahim's son and the first sultan of modern Johor, Sultan Abu Bakar, decided to call it Johor Baru during his coronation in 1866 to distinguish his reign from the old Johor Sultanate. The monarch's decision has remained unchanged until today.

Growth in the state was moderate between the two World Wars and things only picked up when industries sprouted in the outskirts of Johor Baru in the 1970s.

Expansion spread to areas like Tebrau and Tampoi and that led to the establishment of Senai Airport in 1974.

The late 1980s to early 1990s were good years for the state as the influx of investments led to massive population growth. Johor was at the cusp of prosperity and well on its way to rival its larger cousins, namely, Kuala Lumpur, Penang and Ipoh.

By the time Johor Baru was made a city in 1994, development had expanded to places further away like Skudai, Kulai and Pasir Gudang.

"Some 14 years later, the new township of Nusajaya was opened. The first ones to call the place home were members of the Johor civil service who relocated from their Bukit Timbalan offices in downtown Johor Baru. Since then, there has been no looking back for this place," he adds, just as the tops of several imposing buildings come into view in the distance.

Within minutes, we arrive in the vicinity of Iskandar Puteri. Compared to a few decades ago, this place has definitely made rapid progress. True to my friend's forewarning, the landscape is hardly recognisable.

The row of popular food stalls frequented by those heading to work in Singapore during the wee hours of the morning in the past is gone. In their place are several towering residential blocks.

Even my favourite late-night nasi paprik kiosk operated by an affable mother-and-son team in the late 1990s failed to withstand the tide of development and has since given way to a row of modern shoplots.

A BEACON OF AUTHORITY

Exploration on foot begins after our car pulls to a halt at a spacious parking area. Almost immediately, six towering minarets catch our attention.

Strategically located just after the imposing Kota Iskandar archway, Masjid Kota Iskandar is truly an awe-inspiring visual introduction to the new state administrative centre.

Officially declared open in June 2015, Masjid Kota Iskandar serves as the second state mosque after Masjid Sultan Abu Bakar in Johor Baru.

Accorded pride of place at the highest vantage point in the surrounding landscape, this religious place of prayer is both a beacon of authority as well as focal point for congregation every Friday.

Careful exploration of the interior results in various interesting discoveries. Intricate carvings of Quranic verses as well as eye-catching Islamic motifs decorate the walls and window grilles.

The rooftop section is home to a lush garden where visitors can temporarily rest their weary feet and enjoy scenic views of the surrounding areas.

A short walk along a shady tree-lined footpath leads to an adjacent building that is nothing short of an architectural wonder.

Bangunan Dato' Jaafar Muhammad serves as home to, among others, the Johor State Legislative Assembly, State Treasury as well as offices of the Menteri Besar, State Secretary and Legal Adviser.

Named after Johor's first and longest-serving Menteri Besar, this sprawling complex is designed to mirror the famed Court of the Lions in the heart of Alhambra, the Moorish citadel consisting of a network of palaces, gardens and forts in Granada, Spain.

With more outdoor space allocated to lush gardens and fountains than interior offices, it is a pleasure to explore the external features of Bangunan Dato' Jaafar Muhammad and appreciate the adaptation of the interesting Islamic Nasrid styles first conceived by Sultan Muhammad V of the Granada Emirate back in the 14th century.

The many eye-catching water features successfully capture the imagination of early Islamic horticulture. Fringed by rows of flourishing date palms and various flowering shrubs, these picturesque sections conjure the illusion of a bountiful and tranquil oasis in the middle of an arid desert.

A RESPECTFUL NOD

Next to Bangunan Dato' Jaafar Muhammad is Dataran Mahkota and Bangunan Sultan Ismail.

At a glance, the latter immediately calls to mind the majestic Bangunan Sultan Ibrahim, the former State Secretariat building at Bukit Timbalan.

This close resemblance is definitely a respectful nod to the continuity of governance as the seat of administration has since moved from Johor Baru to Iskandar Puteri.

Just like Bangunan Dato' Jaafar Muhammad, the Moorish-Andalusian architecture of Bangunan Sultan Ismail showcases the clever interplay of useable space, quiet ambience and natural light.

Its five office blocks are surrounded by three environmentally-friendly courtyards that echo Johor's diverse ecological heritage.

Atrium Johor adopts an indoor garden concept filled with various indigenous Johor flora while the popular Laman Kasturi consists of a fragrant musk lime garden located between the west and south wings of the main building.

Best among the trio, however, must be the aromatic and colourful Laman Bunga Rampai. Designed as a potpourri garden, this strategically-located courtyard delightfully results in a multitude of fragrant essential oils permeating throughout the building complex.

The refreshing scents in the air definitely beat those from atomised air fresheners.

Exploring the interior further reveals intricate details that echo reminders of cash crops that helped to boost the state's coffers in the distant past.

The architects have proven their mettle by interweaving modern interpretations of the pineapple and pepper plants with spectacular Islamic patterns.

This same concept is echoed in the main building where the Pineapple Skylight allows natural light to illuminate the principal hall while the shimmering jewel-shaped skylight above the Jauhar Atrium lobby reminds all present that the moniker in Arabic means precious stone from which the name Johor originates.

SHIMMERING WATERS

Stepping back into the sun, we leave Bangunan Sultan Ismail and head over to Dataran Mahkota which is conceived in the manner of a traditional town square.

Among the interesting features here are the welcoming mounds, ceremonial grounds, central water plaza, heritage wall and amphitheatre.

By this time, we have ventured far enough to catch a view of the the shimmering waters of Selat Tebrau and the northern Singapore coastline in the distance.

Keen to have a closer look, we double back to the car and quickly make our way to Puteri Harbour which is considered by many as the Pearl of Johor for its many prestigious waterfront developments.

Ideally located along the southern Johor coast at the closest point to neighbouring Singapore, Puteri Harbour's award-winning layout has transformed it into a popular dining, entertainment and holiday destination.

Most of the activities here are focused along the harbour-side promenade which is home to several world-class hotels and convention centres including Hotel Jen, a four-star accommodation by Shangri-La Hotels & Resorts, and Somerset Puteri Harbour, a brand under The Ascott Group, offering spacious service apartments.

Soon after visiting Puteri Harbour Marina, which is the first of its kind in Malaysia to receive the 5 Gold Anchor Award by the Yacht Harbour Association in United Kingdom, my friend signals that it is time to take our leave.

REASONS TO RETURN

"The other interesting places like Taman Botani Iskandar, Kiblat Monument, Johor Interpretive Gallery and Bangunan Abdul Rahman Andak will have to wait for another day," says my friend, noticing my rather obvious yearning to stay on a little longer.

"As it is, we have covered quite a lot of ground. Usually, a full day is needed to appreciate the many interesting tourist attractions in Iskandar Puteri and its surrounding areas," he continues.

During the brief drive to Senai Airport, I cannot help but reflect upon the enormous potential of Iskandar Puteri.

Boosted by the coastal highway, its high-impact economic activities as well as outstanding social appeal can only grow from strength to strength with the support of successful supplementary projects like the Mall of Medini, EduCity and Pinewood Iskandar Malaysia Studios.

In the years to come, Iskandar Puteri will surely be the new economic engine of growth in Malaysia and a major tourist attraction in this region.

Without a doubt, this well-managed and strategically-located place will be in a class of its own and give other successful and well-known world cities like Dubai, Doha, Tokyo, Seoul, London and Sydney a run for their money.