"HERITAGE buildings shouldn’t be left abandoned. They’re prominent features of the local history and should be cherished so that their stories can be told long after they’ve outlived their initial use," begins Ooi Chun Keat when quizzed about the reason behind his decision to turn the former Alor Setar railway station into the Kedah capital's latest and most happening food and beverage outlet, the Railway Tavern.
Ooi's passion for conservation and preservation is difficult to miss as we make our way along the corridors of the former single-platform station which celebrated its centenary four years ago in 2015. Stepping into a cavernous room that has since been tastefully renovated into the restaurant's main dining area, he elaborates: "This used to be the parcel office. The railway played a crucial role in the distribution of packages long before courier services came into existence.”
Keen to share his deep interest in local railway history, Ooi adds: “Initial plans to introduce rail services in Kedah were put in place after the Anglo-Siamese Treaty was signed in 1909. After that, things progressed fairly rapidly. By late 1911, surveys for potential rail routes between Bukit Mertajam and Alor Setar were completed."
Construction began by late 1912 and three years later, the railway line linking Penang and Kedah was officially declared open on October 1915. The momentous event had far reaching effects on Alor Setar and its hinterland. Trains were considered cutting-edge technology in those days and their presence in the Kedah plains heralded an era of rapid expansion for the state.
CONSERVATION TO THE FORE
While pointing out several key features that serve as poignant reminders of the glory days of rail transportation, Ooi reveals future plans to set up information boards and interactive screens to help highlight important events that happened in Kedah's illustrious history as well as emphasise upon the key development role played by the railway during those early days.
"My plan is to expose the younger generation to the inner workings of this former station like the track switching mechanisms as well as the complex signalling system to ensure safety during the days when there was only a single railway line. Locomotives in the past may not be as fast or comfortable as the KTM Komuter trains that we enjoy today but their key role in the development of Kedah as well as all of Malaya must never be forgotten," explains the 29-year-old passionately.
Asked about the condition of the building when he took over in late 2017, Ooi pauses momentarily before recalling: “This place was abandoned when the new KTM station was opened on June 12, 2014 upon completion of the Ipoh-Padang Besar electrification and double-tracking project. During the three-year interval, trespassers broke in and made a mess of everything. It took my staff and me more than a fortnight to tidy things up before the renovators could come in and work."
The arrival of a sizeable group of diners serves as a cue for us to head for the door and move on to the other parts of the building. We stop by at the coffee lounge which used to house the ticketing office as well as the station master's room. Voicing his dissatisfaction that the area looks rather sparse and unexciting, Ooi reveals plans to convert it into a sports-themed lounge soon.
FUTURE PLANS
"Within the next six months, patrons of the Railway Tavern can look forward to an exciting new addition. This section will be filled with widescreen monitors showing both live and recorded English Premier League and Champions League matches. Apart from the occasional sports trivia quiz, we’ll also introduce pool tables, shuffleboards as well as darts to make things interesting. To help create a conducive atmosphere, the walls will be filled with various sports-related memorabilia," shares Ooi.
Our brief walkabout comes to an end at the Railway Tavern's entertainment room that’s equipped with the latest state-of-the-art audio visual equipment. He invites me to take a breather and enjoy his outlet's signature ice blended latte. With Ed Sheeran's Perfect playing in the background, Ooi goes on to share that much still needs to be done in terms of promotion to improve outlet visibility.
"Our location in Alor Setar's Jalan Station is a bit out of the way and there are people who are still unaware of our existence. Just the other day, a couple dropped by with the intention of buying train tickets. They had a good laugh when told that the station had already moved years ago!" says Ooi, chuckling.
Our conversation halts when a member of the staff approaches Ooi for consultation. Leaving the duo to their discussion pertaining to the evening's meal preparations, I shift my attention to my notes. After a few minutes, I’m overwhelmed by a strange feeling that the person talking to Ooi sounds very familiar.
UNEXPECTED MEETING
Taking a second look, I realise it’s none other than multiple award-winning chef, Robert Cheah Kar Pah. Our paths last crossed about three years ago when he was still the Executive Chef of Holiday Villa City Centre Alor Setar.
"Robert! How are you? Remember me?" I exclaim just as Cheah prepares to leave after his discussion with Ooi comes to an end. Turning at the sound of my voice, he does a double take and then grins widely.
Realising that Cheah and I are friends, Ooi promptly gives us the opportunity to catch up by taking the discussion notes from his employee's hands. "Let me handle this while you guys catch up on things," he quips before leaving.
As soon as Ooi is out of earshot, Cheah explains his presence here at the Railway Tavern. "I resigned from Holiday Villa sometime in early February 2018 after news of its impending closure was confirmed. After working for two decades and making binding ties with close friends that are enough to last a lifetime, I can honestly attest that the decision to leave was easier said than done," confides Cheah before adding that Ooi, who was looking for a chef at that time, made contact at around Chinese New Year that same year.
Recalls Cheah: "He told me about his aspirations for the Railway Tavern. I agreed after realising that the offer was an opportunity to try something outside of my comfort zone. After being in the hotel industry for nearly 26 years, the chance to help Ooi build up a fledgling restaurant housed in a historic former railway station was too good to pass up on."
ACCIDENTAL CHEF
"You’ve been in the hotel industry for more than a quarter of a century? How did it all start?" I ask in disbelief. Despite knowing Cheah for some time, I never knew much about the early part of his career and now seems as good a time as any to find out more.
Describing himself as an accidental chef, the father of two teenage children turns back the hands of time to 1990. "I hated lessons and when Form 4 finally came to an end, I made the life-changing decision of not going back to school any more. Fortunately, my father was very understanding and he didn’t object," recalls Cheah.
A few weeks later, his father took him to Alor Setar’s Hotel Samila after hearing news that Resorts World Genting executives were conducting a recruitment drive there. "I agreed with his suggestion and was willing to go anywhere as long as it wasn’t school," says Cheah with a chuckle.
During the interview, Cheah's application to work as a croupier was rejected when his weak command of the English language was exposed. Left with no other alternative, Cheah then settled for a busboy's position which he held for nearly two years.
Asked why he settled for second best, Cheah merely chuckles and replies: "Everyone working in the kitchen, including busboys, had free access to food. Unbeknown to me then, the desire to sample good food at no charge became the pivotal element that helped launch my career in culinary arts."
Despite having ample opportunities to try good food, Cheah eventually fell out of love with the highlands. "I was bored to tears. Apart from work, there was not much else to do," confides Cheah, who then went on work for The Datai Langkawi in 1992 as a kitchen helper.
The affable chef only began to like his job when he was offered the commis chef post at Berjaya Langkawi Resort three months later. He explains: "As a junior member of staff working under an expatriate chef de partie, I began learning the ins and outs of my specific station. It gave me great satisfaction to see guests enjoying the fruits of my labour. That spurred me to continue improving."
WORKING ABROAD
Sometime in 1994, Cheah's big break to work abroad came in the form of a phone call from his brother in Singapore, telling of a vacancy at the Westin Stamford Hotel's new Mexican restaurant in the island republic's upmarket City Hall area.
"The American sous chef there genuinely encouraged participation of all staff members. On the first day, he told all of us several Mexican folktales and asked us for our favourite as that would be used as the restaurant's name. In the end, we agreed on Pancho Villa, a revolutionary leader who was considered by many as the Robin Hood of Mexico," shares Cheah, before revealing that his weakness in English was once again exposed during that particular group discussion.
Keen to help those under his wing, the American helped Cheah brush up on the language. "Thanks to his unwavering support, my fluency improved by leaps and bounds within a short period of time. I was grateful beyond words and, in return, started clocking in 12-hour shifts instead of the mandatory eight even though there was no provision for overtime allowance," he recalls.
Cheah's hard work didn’t go unnoticed. He was promoted to Commis I within nine months, a record that remained unbroken for many years even after he returned to Malaysia in 1996 to begin life as a married man.
After a brief stint as a food checker at MS Garden Hotel in Sungai Petani, Cheah began what was to become his longest unbroken stint at a single establishment. During the two-decade duration at Holiday Villa, Cheah climbed the career ladder, covering various posts like second wok, assistant Chinese chef, Chinese chef, and executive sous chef before finally reaching the pinnacle as executive chef.
FOOD TASTING SESSION
"Excuse me, Chef Robert. We’re ready for you now," a serving staff suddenly interjects. Glancing at his watch, Cheah calls time on our conversation and invites me to join him and Ooi in a food tasting session. "Try our exciting new dishes as well as the special buka puasa set dinner," he adds, leading the way down the corridor towards the main dining area.
Over the next hour or so, the three of us have a grand time enjoying the best of Railway Tavern's latest selection of culinary delights. The perfect balance between western and locally-inspired fusion dishes is definitely a trademark of Cheah's culinary genius.
Among the dishes worthy of mention are the coffee chicken and the Ramadan set. The former was created out of Cheah's love for the popular beverage. When first introduced at Holiday Villa's Szechuan Garden more than a decade ago, the dish won rave reviews from guests, including members of the Kedah royal family.
"At RM40, our Ramadan set is definitely value for money. Steamed siakap fish alone is valued at nearly RM30. The set, which is enough for four also comes with a soup, mixed vegetables and a very special egg omelette filled with petai leaves," explains Cheah.
At the end of a most satisfying dinner, I thank Ooi and Cheah for their hospitality and start making my way back to my bike. The sound of a KTM Kommuter barrelling past just as I’m about to step out immediately reminds me of Ooi's role in helping to preserve part of Alor Setar's rich heritage.
His effort to give a breath of life to this once-derelict building will surely go a long way in helping Malaysians appreciate the importance of conserving historic landmarks and helping these architectural beauties withstand the test of time.
The Railway Tavern
No. 1, Jalan Station, Alor Setar , Kedah. Tel: +604-700 1038