Sunday Vibes

Since the Covid-19 pandemic, getting "culture" going again is proving to be rather challenging

IN the global competition to get culture going again, Malaysia is a definite contender. A number of museums have already reopened, including the one that consistently tops the Tripadvisor list of local cultural attractions.

The Islamic Arts Museum Malaysia has been open since June — and all that's missing is the vast number of foreign tourists who usually visit every year. This is the quietest you are ever going to see it, so now is the time to head over to Lake Gardens. It has always been Malaysia's most serene museum, and now it's positively celestial. Those elegant displays and the seamless space have never seemed better.

A few Malaysian museums have not reopened at all, yet. Another favourite of mine, the Bank Negara Malaysia Museum and Art Gallery, remains closed "until further notice". It's an expression that's used a lot at the moment.

Those willing to cross the Causeway in search of visual culture will find it is pretty much business as usual over there — apart from the face masks and temperature readings, of course. As with so many places around the world, you can forget guided tours and children's activities. At the National Museum of Singapore, I was saddened to find that the enticingly named "Quiet Mornings" have been suspended due to Covid-19.

Perhaps every morning is now quiet? One closure that can't be blamed on the coronavirus is at the National Gallery Singapore; the car park is out of action for most of this month due to preparations for Singapore's national day parade.

Malaysian residents looking further afield than our southern neighbour's hospitality may have to think about flying. The world's major holiday season is upon us although the number of flights heading out to international destinations is still negligible. Tourism is the lifeblood of the airline business, and what is there to do in the world's favourite Western cities if there are no museums to visit, and the only shops that are open are grocery stores?

The preferred destination is usually London. There are so many museums to choose from and most have free admission. This used to be the case in some cities, but New York came off my freebie list two years ago when the Metropolitan Museum of Art started charging — unless you're a resident of New York State, which not many of us are.

The price went from zero to US$25, but it hasn't reopened anyway so you'll have to make a remote donation if you want to support America's grandest museum. It's still very open for political correctness, with its principal mission being "Committing to anti-racism through systemic improvements to our policies, practices, and priorities."

SLOW BUSINESS

Just down the road at New York's other big-ticket destination on Fifth Avenue, there are no tickets for sale yet. The Guggenheim also charges US$25 and like the Met, it's not revealing when visitors will be allowed again.

Over in Washington DC, it's the same story with the various museums of the Smithsonian Institution. These are among the few with free admission, not that this will affect Washington's most famous resident as he only visits places of culture when there's a fundraiser happening.

London's other main competitor in the cultural arena is Paris. There is some good news for travellers who feel like seeing the Louvre without the crowds. The world's most visited museum is open again. Even the Mona Lisa can be seen properly now, if you're one of the lucky few to secure pre-booked entry tickets.

Unfortunately, a third of the galleries are still closed and I can't work out whether that includes my favourite — the imaginatively-designed Islamic-art gallery. If you can't get the slot you want at the Louvre, try the Musee d'Orsay. Business seems to be less vigorous at the place without the Mona Lisa, but it has a lot of other desirable materials, including plenty from Van Gogh.

The news is not so good at some of Paris' smaller museums without government support.

The Musee Rodin has resorted to churning out replicas of Rodin's most celebrated sculptures. "The Thinker" is their top seller, with prices starting at US$50,000, rising to more than a million dollars.

BIG BOYS OF BRITAIN

In London, things are different. There is very little such commercial acumen and a lot of hand-wringing instead. Surprisingly, the government has just promised almost RM8 billion, so the arts sector is sitting back and thinking how to spend this haul.

Small museums are unlikely to be the beneficiaries, and many will never reopen. Those with a special affection for Charles Dickens, for example, may not be able to see his chamber pot or the world's first Christmas card. The museum's slogan may prove false in the end: "The pain of parting is nothing to the joy of meeting again." (Charles Dickens, Nicholas Nickleby).

The big boys of Britain are in a much better position. The first to reopen was the National Gallery last week, followed by the Royal Academy — just too late for the world's greatest show of submitted art works, the Summer Exhibition.

More will be opening in London soon, although most museums are reticent about exactly when. Even the British Museum, that guiding light of solid dependability and long queues for free admission, is not giving a firm date.

We will all have to get used to more than just wearing masks and seeing museum staff equipped with visors. One-way systems seem to be the way ahead: another denial of personal liberty but probably good for disease control. How they are going to control groups of 50 feral kids will be the real test of post-Covid cultural institutions.

Follow Lucien de Guise on Instagram @ crossxcultural.

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