NESTLED within Kota Kinabalu's industrial heart lies Akar Garden Restaurant, a hidden gem offering more than just a meal — it's a gateway to Sabah's rich cultural tapestry and culinary heritage.
Despite the initial challenges brought on by the pandemic, the eatery has emerged as a vibrant hub, where locals and tourists alike can walk through its doors and immerse themselves in Sabah's flavours, traditions and hospitality.
Located among warehouses and office complexes in the Kolombong industrial area, Akar Garden may seem an unlikely venue for a cultural hotspot.
Yet, for Roberto Leone and the team at VARN Group Sdn Bhd, a company that owns three other food and beverage outlets in addition to Akar, this setting presented an opportunity to create something, nonetheless.
"We saw the potential when the previous tenant moved out," says Leone, the co-owner of Akar Garden, adding: "Our vision is to blend Sabahan hospitality with a vibrant dining experience that caters to families and tourists alike."
Inside the restaurant, diners are greeted by a spacious interior adorned with ethnic Sabahan paintings in warm, earthy hues. The ambiance is inviting, with dramatic lighting setting the stage for an evening of cultural immersion.
A stage stands prominently for nightly performances, where local artistes showcase the region's rich heritage through traditional dances and melodious tunes played with traditional musical instruments.
"Every evening, our cultural performances offer a glimpse into Sabah's mosaic of over 30 ethnic groups," explains the affable Leone, an Italian who has made Sabah his home for more than five years.
Adding, he elaborates: "Guests are treated to traditional dances that embody the customs and stories of our communities, followed by contemporary performances by local up-and-coming artistes like hip-hop group ISOHBAHTOS, who use hip-hop to highlight Sabah's cultural heritage."
OF FLAVOURS AND TRADITIONS
Central to Akar Garden's allure is its menu, which is based on Sabah's diverse food heritage. The menu celebrates local ingredients and traditional recipes passed down through generations.
Dishes like bambangan (pickled wild mango) and tuhau (pickled wild ginger) are among the state's unique flavours.
For adventurous diners, they can try butod or sago grub, which are palm weevil maggots harvested from the trunk of sago trees. Some say that sago grubs are creamy when eaten raw, and taste like meat when cooked with vegetables and other condiments.
"Our aim is to offer a gastronomic journey that captures the essence of Sabah," says Leone, adding: "From the tangy flavours of indigenous ingredients to robust spices in dishes like the Akar lobster laksa, every bite tells a story of our cultural heritage!"
While homage is paid to tradition, there are also other dishes on the menu that cater to less adventurous palates. The options range from local delicacies to international favourites like Hawaiian pizza and Angus steak.
Another unique feature of this restaurant is its spacious outdoor area, which has been transformed into a playground, providing a safe and enjoyable space for children to play while their parents relax and enjoy their food.
"We want families to feel welcome and cared for," shares Leone, enthusiastically gesturing towards the playground equipped with mini basketball hoops, a foosball table, a mini slide and an even a trampoline.
The restaurant also welcomes events and gatherings, offering a picturesque venue infused with Sabahan charm. More than a dining destination, Akar Garden Restaurant is truly a cultural sanctuary where locals and visitors can connect with Sabah's vibrant spirit.
AKAR GARDEN RESTAURANT
WHERE: Lot 53, Lorong Sebor, Jalan Kolombong, Off Jalan Tuaran, Kota Kinabalu, Sabah
INSTAGRAM: @akargarden.kk