"YOU'RE going to Taiwan!" "We're taking the train!"
Hold on. Taiwan? Train travel? How do these two even connect? When you think of epic train journeys, you might imagine chugging through Europe, maybe Japan, but Taiwan? Does that even qualify? Well, it should.
Picture this: you're hurtling down the island's west coast at 300kph and everything outside is a total blur. One moment you're stuck in the chaotic whirlwind of Taipei and the next, you're gliding past the laid-back shores of Kaohsiung.
And guess what? It only takes 120 minutes. Yeah, you read that right — two hours to cover the entire length of the country! How's that for convenience?
When we got the chance to explore Taiwan, especially its colourful west coast, we didn't think trains would play such a big role. But let me tell you — those Taiwanese know what they're doing. Hopping on the Taiwan High Speed Rail (THSR) was like stepping into a sci-fi movie, except with more snacks and fewer time paradoxes.
The THSR is a beast. Stretching 350km along the west coast, this engineering marvel can reach speeds up to 300kph. That's right, we're talking bullet train vibes. You're not just travelling — you're flying (well, almost). One minute you're in the thick of Taipei's hustle, and two hours later, you're sipping tea by the shores of Kaohsiung, wondering how life can be this good.
Travelling Taiwan by train is like unlocking a treasure chest. Every stop reveals a new gem, whether it's street food that'll knock your socks off (or in the case of stinky tofu, make you wish you'd lost your sense of smell!), or incense-filled temples that make you question all your life choices. As two non-Mandarin speaking Malaysians, we managed just fine with plenty of smiles, hand gestures, Google Translate and sheer determination.
So, if you want to explore Taiwan like the locals, just do what we did — hop on the train, grab some snacks and let the THSR show you the magic of Taiwan, one lightning-fast stop at a time.
FIRST STOP: TAIPEI!
Taiwan is a lively mix of sleek skyscrapers and serene green spaces, where you'll spot locals walking their dogs, dedicated tai chi practitioners strutting their moves, or perhaps an elderly woman soaking in the greenery. And towering above it all, neck-craning required, is Taipei 101 — shimmering in the night like a giant bamboo stalk.
You can't mention Taipei without talking about Taipei 101, the tallest building in Taiwan, the sixth tallest in Asia, and the 10th tallest in the world. It's like visiting Kuala Lumpur and skipping the Petronas Twin Towers — just not done!
As we wandered through Taipei, we noticed temples tucked into nearly every street corner. Despite Taiwan's modern concrete vibe, thousands of temples dot the island, bringing bursts of vermilion red to even the most traffic-clogged streets.
Each temple has its own fascinating stories, and Taiwan is full of them. One of the highlights? The Xia Hai City God Temple, where the star attraction is a 17-inch Love God, famed for his matchmaking skills. You'll often see hopeful romantics — and sometimes their enthusiastic parents — lighting incense in their quest for true, everlasting love!
There's plenty to explore — and we walked, and walked! Ximending's rainbow-coloured pedestrian lane welcomed us into Taiwan's oldest and longest walkway. This lively district is steeped in history, with gems like the Ximending Mazu Temple and the iconic Red House Theatre, once a bustling market. Think Kuala Lumpur's Bukit Bintang — but on steroids!
Ximending buzzes with youth, fashion, and street performances in Taiwan's largest pedestrian zone. After all that walking, we couldn't resist diving into Taipei's booming coffee scene, the perfect spot to recharge before continuing our adventure!
When the sun sets, Taipei's night markets come alive with energy. These are no ordinary pasar-malam! Expect cheek-by-jowl crowds, carnival games and stalls selling everything from socks to chopsticks. The food? Look for unique treats like stinky tofu, creamy avocado juice and even Michelin-starred bites.
We hit both Raohe and Ningxia markets, and pro tip: snag fresh mochi from Ah Chung's humble stall Mochi Baby at Raohe — it sells out faster than you can say "Michelin-recommended mochi!"
NEXT STOP: HSINCHU!
Just 86.3km from Taipei — or a quick 35-minute THSR ride — and we're in Hsinchu, home to Taiwan's "Silicon Valley" — the Hsinchu Science Park. With over 400 high-tech companies, this hub drives the island's tech industry and innovation.
A must-see here is the Industrial Technology Research Institute (ITRI), a global leader in applied technology research. Since its founding in 1973, ITRI has driven breakthroughs in Taiwan's integrated circuit development and continues to support tech startups with cutting-edge research and development. But Hsinchu isn't just about technology.
A walk through the city reveals a treasure trove of history at every turn. We stumbled upon a modest building that led us to the Hsinchu Image Museum, once the iconic Yule Theatre, Taiwan's first air-conditioned cinema. If walls could talk, they'd tell tales of its heyday, but instead, 80-year-old Guo Jun Xiong, a retired teacher and volunteer, eagerly shared the theatre's storied past. The museum, filled with decades of memories, felt like a hidden gem brought to life by those who remember its glory days.
The East Gate of Hsinchu, a relic from the past, sticks out like a historical sore thumb amid the busy roads. A sign politely suggests, "Bow before entering", so naturally, we obey — when in Hsinchu, right?
As we wander through the park and into the gate's compound, we're instantly struck by the fact that this is the last standing remnant of the city's ancient walls. Originally fortified with bamboo in 1733 and upgraded to stone in 1827, it outlasted most of its buddies, which were torn down in 1902 to make way for roads. The East Gate still stands tall with its arched walkway and double-eaved roof, a reminder of the city's enduring history.
The relentless summer sun (yes, we picked the hottest time of the year to visit Taiwan!) had us on a mission to find Hsinchu's iconic 814 Lixiang Ice Shop. Founded by a retired Air Force veteran, the shop's popsicle recipes date back to the Air Force commissary of the 1960s. Dubbed "Air Force popsicles", these icy treats come in flavours that scream Taiwan, like taro, peanut, passion fruit and red bean. And why 814? Aug 14 is Air Force Day in Taiwan — cool treats with a cool backstory!
FRONT AND CENTRE: TAICHUNG!
Travelling to Taichung from Taipei takes an hour on the THSR, covering about 160 kilometres. This second largest city in Taiwan is home to notable institutions like the National Museum of Natural Science, the National Taiwan Museum of Fine Arts and the National Taichung Theatre, alongside cultural sites, such as the historic Taichung Park and the Lin Family Gardens. Beyond these highlights, the city also offers intriguing off-the-beaten-path sites waiting to be discovered.
One of our favourite discoveries was the vibrant Rainbow Village in Taichung's Nantun District, a colourful contrast to the grey buildings around it. Created by Huang Yung Fu or "Rainbow Grandpa", the village came to life when, at 86, he painted whimsical figures on his walls to save his home from demolition. His art drew attention and local students petitioned the mayor to preserve it.
Though some of Grandpa's work has faded or been unfortunately replaced by newer art, his legacy lives on. Rainbow Village now attracts over a million visitors a year, celebrating its cultural significance and the spirit of its creator, who passed away earlier this year at the age of 100.
We couldn't leave Taichung without tasting its famous sun cakes — flaky pastry with a gooey maltose filling. At the Taiwan Sun Cake Museum, housed in the historic Quan'an Hall on Taiwan Avenue, we learnt about this iconic treat, which originated from Wei Qinghai's family bakery, passed down through three generations.
Afterward, we visited the Taichung Old Station, built in 1908, where Japanese and Western architecture meet. The Railway Museum offered a nostalgic look at Taiwan's railway history, while upscale cafes in old train carriages tempted us (if only the lines weren't so long!).
elena@nst.com.my