Mexico's smallest and safest state is a bastion of simple, old-world charm. The hideaway boasts haciendas, secluded countryside and exotic delicacies, writes Angela Goh
TLAXCALA is a sanctuary for languid leisure. Quiet, quaint, unhurried. It ticks all the boxes for respite and relaxation. Not to mention sustainability and low-impact tourism.
Less than two hour's drive from the raucous Mexico City, the unassuming state and capital of the same name embody the quintessential Mexican country life. Picture cornfields, rolling meadows, ranches and cowboys on horses.
This understated character lures those who seek solitude and privacy such as Mexican billionaire and the world's second richest man, Carlos Slim, who owns a ranch here.
SPA-LIKE QUALITIES
The compact city of Tlaxcala (pronounced tla-sh-ka-la) rekindles the joy of simple living with its traditional town-like personality. Neat low-rise buildings awash in earthy tones of mustard, tangerine and green, lead up to the adobe-coloured San Jose church topped with cobalt blue-tiled domes.
This city of 15,000 "is the epitome of traditional Mexico," says Irad Santacruz Arciniega, a Tlaxcala native and chef. "It is peaceful, safe and offers a very original experience. What goes on here is not made just for tourists," he affirms, as we walk towards the highlight of the week, the farmers' market.
Even at the busy weekly market, where farmers and villagers gather to trade, the crowd is not at all overwhelming. It feels more like a sensory therapy, browsing through farm fresh produce and livestock which reconnect your senses to natural sights, smells and sounds.
Among a number of curious traders who ask Arciniega where I come from, one points excitedly to the label on her jacket, exclaiming animatedly "Made in Malaysia", with her thumb up and a gleeful look of approval. Globalisation connects in amazing ways.
Soaking in the take-it-easy life, we saunter to the cosy public plaza, Constitution Square, seat ourselves on a bench, taking pride in doing nothing.
Reluctantly though, we extract ourselves from moments of profound reflection and wander to the imposing Government Palace. Inside, the walls are bedecked with vivid murals depicting the city's history and indigenous roots.
For some excitement, watch a living art form, bullfighting. It is a major event here and Tlaxcala has one of the oldest, most attractive bullrings in the country, the Jorge "El Ranchero" Aguilar ring, named after Mexico's great matador.
On hearing a bullfight is on, we join eager spectators as they clamber up a hillock to an ancient church ground overlooking the bullring for free viewing. Many early birds have perched themselves at the antiquated bell tower.
"It is a beautiful small jewel of a city. It is refreshing and appealing that there is still an innocence and openness in Tlaxcala, especially in the small towns," says Sharon Sanchez, who, with her husband Jaime, runs Quinta Amada Bed and Breakfast.
"Many from smaller cities and towns travel to Tlaxcala on religious pilgrimages, especially to the historic Basilica de Ocotlan and the sacred spring.
"Here, old traditions are still upheld and for Mexicans, this is where they can still eat foods their grandmothers cooked," explains Sharon, an expat from California.
HACIENDAS AND WORLD'S LARGEST PYRAMID
Feeling rejuvenated and ready to explore the countryside, there are languorous and active pursuits for day trips.
Visit, dine or stay at the haciendas. These relics of the gilded age used to number over a thousand in the state. These enormous country estates normally contain the owner's mansion, together with stables, workers' quarters and other buildings. Today, many lie decayed and crumbled while some are re-fashioned into hotels and restaurants.
Hacienda Santa Barbara is a rustic boutique hotel, retaining its aged and faded appearance. Guestrooms reference the rugged character of the bygone era, whitewashed walls, sparse furnishings with repurposed items. The raw appeal may be too radical for the soft adventurer set.
The hacienda houses a lovely but dilapidated chapel, where I climb a dark, narrow spiral stone staircase to a rooftop terrace. From the perch, you are treated to a mood-lifting vista of farmland stretching to the horizon, workers on horseback and horse-carts, just like scenes from a movie.
A relatively more polished but still charming option is the well-restored Hacienda Soltepec. The castle-like hotel has undergone a facelift with modern comforts such as modernised guestrooms, indoor swimming pool and gym. Dine by the courtyard and spend many lazy hours there.
For the energetic, Soltepec offers two exhilarating ways to explore the vast estate, riding on horseback and in hot air balloons. In this cowboy country, the natural choice for me is to ride on a horse through the open fields furrowed by dried out streams.
Hike the magnificent dormant La Malinche volcano, Tlaxcala's highest mountain, or picnic at the park below it. Together with two commanding snowcapped peaks, the active Popocatepetl and dormant Iztaccihuatl, volcanos rule the landscape. Villagers consider them mountains, humans and gods, conducting prayers in honour of them during the corn planting season.
You can combine long walks with exploring archaeological sites. Claim bragging rights with a visit to the world's largest pyramid, the intriguing Great Pyramid of Cholula, in the neighbouring state of Puebla. Constructed in 2BC, the abandoned complex was concealed by earth and trees, and perched on top of it is a church built by the Spanish on what they thought was only a hill.
The sight is remarkable as it is amusing. A grand looking church standing on a partially excavated hill and below it are exposed parts of the pyramid walls.
Archaeological sites within Tlaxcala include Cacaxtla, containing impressive pre-Hispanic era murals (blending characteristics of Teotihuacan and Classic Maya civilisations) and close by is the unusual spiral pyramid of Xochitecatl, dating back to 800BC.
The small city of Huamantla, 45km from Tlaxcala, is known for flower carpets which line roads on festive occasions, delicious lamb and running of the bulls in August. Similar to Spain's Pamplona with the only difference in that individual streets are blocked off and bulls are released in each, rather than run along one long route.
If you miss some urban buzz, visit colourful Puebla city, a larger and busier tourist magnet than Tlaxcala 40km away. The state capital of the same name is famous for painted ceramic tiles which embellish many buildings in the historic quarter, as well as the large chilli pepper, chocolate mole sauce and colourful candies.
Despite enjoying Puebla, I look forward to returning to blissful Tlaxcala at the end of the day.
EXOTIC SPECIALTIES
The quality of food in Tlaxcala is notches above Mexico City, even for the humble corn tortilla, usually hand made in a home kitchen here. The softer and smoother texture is attributed to natural ingredients and traditional skill. "The corn in Tlaxcala is native, original and purely organic," assures the affable and fervent Arciniega, who also heads the state's Slow Food movement, a grassroots organisation to preserve traditional food culture.
Tlaxcala cuisine incorporates eye-catching ingredients ranging from the attractive bright yellow squash blossoms and grey-black corn fungus, to nasty looking worms and ants. Hardly for the squeamish but these are very nutritious.
The fungus or Mexican truffle is both an exquisite delicacy and a welcome disease (farmers often hope for the disease to infect their crop). Despite the unsavoury association, it tastes divine, similar to straw mushroom with a trace of mild fruity aftertaste.
The lowly caterpillar worm is an expensive delicacy. The chewy and wriggly delicacy is eaten alive or cooked. Fortunate for me, young chef Fernando Del Razo who runs Tlalli restaurant, serves them cooked, in salsa dip and in a tamal.
CHIC EATS
The city is not all old and outmoded. The dining scene is lively and refreshing with chic cafes and funky bars. Among them is El Piloncillo by top chef Marco Mellado, whose contemporary dishes are imaginative and generous.
He peppers inventive humour around, such as my order of bruschetta, served on a roof tile instead of a plate. Simple kitchen utensils are repurposed into clocks, light holders and other statement making gadgets. Metzli rooftop restaurant offers superb culinary renditions and elevated views. Armando Vazquez, who heads this friendly family-run establishment, introduces me to the "Aztec drink of the gods", pulque. First made over a thousand years ago in these central highlands, the milky, viscous drink is older than the better known mescal and tequila.
Made from the fermented sap of the agave plant without any chemical additive, the mild alcoholic drink (often below four per cent alcohol) is gaining renewed popularity, particularly among the young who are increasingly thirsting for things natural and definitively Mexican.
"The people of Tlaxcala also know how to party and that's why celebrations are very big here," grins biologist Cristobal Sanchez (no relation to Sharon), who together with Arciniega, is working to protect the biodiversity of local produce. As he speaks, Tlaxcala's annual parade gets underway, transforming the sedate atmosphere boisterous.
Why Tlaxcala is not better known is beyond me. Perhaps that is what keeps this hideaway truly original and I hope it stays that way.
HOW TO GET THERE
From Mexico City, Atah buses leave from TAPO terminal (MX$136; about RM30, two hours). Alternatively, Quinta Amada B&B offers its guests private transfers from Mexico City and Mexico City airport. Details at en.visitatlaxcala.mx