A pre-World War II building fuses contemporary charm with the glory of yesteryear, writes Kerry-Ann Augustin
OLD Malaya is impossible to miss. The colonial building which sits like a grand old dame along the narrow roads of Jalan Raja Chulan has a fresh coat of paint, making it look as majestic as it was when the building was first constructed in 1919. The open area in the building’s compound offers a completely different feel — chic wooden high tables and chairs match the raw industrial build of the bar, where young executives mingle and mix.
But the fuse of nostalgic and contemporary is an insight to the heart of the building, a newly restored complex which houses six established, fine-dining restaurants.
TRACES OF HISTORY
It’s hard to imagine that just years ago, the building was one of Kuala Lumpur’s many abandoned colonial structures left to rot while the rest of the city continued to blossom. In the years that it was left vacant, layers of dead leaves blanketed the grounds and vines from the nearby trees crept in between the cracks of the decaying walls. Mould swallowed big areas of what was left of the ceiling and the roof was reduced to rubble.
“Even in its dilapidated form, the first thought that went through the minds of Old Malaya’s founder Kana Theva and co-founder Datuk Syed Mustaffa Shahab when they saw the building, was how it was such a shame that it had been left to rot,” confides Nanthini Theva, the director of corporate communications at Pampas Group of Restaurants. The group, a household name in the Malaysian F&B industry, started renting the building in December 2014. “The building was in such a prime location but was in a way ‘hidden’ from KLites,” she says.
For 15 years, both Kana and Syed Mustaffa never stopped thinking about the abandoned building. “I’ve passed by the building many a time over the last decade and always thought to myself, just imagine what can be done with this building. For Kana and Syed Mustaffa, they always had a dream of turning it into a F&B heaven,” adds Nanthini.
Previously known as Weld Road, the space which Old Malaya now occupies was an enclave for the Eurasian community in KL. The area adjacent to it, Nanthini points out, was known as Serani Row, and the building comprised shophouses and living quarters. “Going through history to find what the old Malayan days were like was enlightening. The conversations Malayans shared within these walls and the lives they led made the restoration process such an exciting time for us,” she shares.
BUILDING A HERITAGE
“Seeing that the client valued the significance of reviving this building made us want to not only preserve the physical aspect of the building but also to inject life that takes patrons back in time and evokes memories of old KL. A glimpse into the past, if you will!” says Zaini Zainul of ZDR, the architecture firm tasked with the building’s design and restoration.
The restoration period, which Nanthini considers to be the most challenging aspect of the entire operation, took two years to complete. It was equally difficult for Azmi Abdullah and Syakir Mahadzir of Spacefighters, an architecture and interior design company that worked with Zaini on this project. During the clearing process of the place, Zaini, Syakir and Azmi found that the structural integrity of the place had been severely compromised due to it being abandoned. They took the advice of engineers, strengthening the first floors and load bearing walls. They even rebuilt the end of the lot. “It’d be nice if we could restore the building in its entirety but safety comes first,” shares Zaini, adding that his team had to make the sacrifice of using new, lighter material for the roof, as opposed to the original.
As demanding as the tasks were, both architect and interior designers enjoyed the challenge. “We were excited to be able to restore a part of Kuala Lumpur and its history,” says Zaini gleefully. For him, the building’s unique “L” shape gives it that extra edge. “The ‘L’ shape building and its junction, creates a rather unique building facade, its identity. The two balconies overlook this generous open area where social events can be held,” he observes, noting that the spectacular view of the KL Tower is one of the building’s best features.
Ganesh Shan, who leads Pampas Group’s Events & Entertainment and spearheads the newly-opened Pier 12 , is more than excited to reveal some other unique decor features in the Old Malaya complex. “Look at this,” he says pointing to the floor of the open area, his smile wide. “These are real old wooden train tracks.”
Like the outside, the decor in the restaurants in the building evoke a sense of nostalgia. “When we envisioned Old Malaya, we wanted its external surrounding to reflect the image and timeline when the building was first erected,” says Zaini. The railway sleepers, he explains, were a cost-effective way of bringing that idea to life.
For Nanthini, having to fuse the feel of a bygone era while catering to the contemporary diner, especially at the Pampas outlet, was nothing short of fascinating. “Thankfully, the main concept was done in a matter of weeks as the client and ourselves were on the same page from day one,” Zaini shares.
TASTE OF LIFE
This new food haven has already been creating waves among diners who appreciate exceptional food in equally great atmosphere.
“Malaysians will always love casual dining, but there’s definitely a market for Malaysians who want to dress up, and enjoy good food and ambience with family and friends,” Nanthini observes.
Old Malaya now consists of steakhouse Pampas, Malaysian fusion outlet Manja, celebrity chef Isadora Chai’s Antara, Chettiar Tiffin Cafe, Italian diner Luce and the newly-opened seafood tavern Pier 12. It also houses two bars under Pampas — Bar 1919 and Kapitan Bar.
“The restaurants had influenced the design concept and in some way, the design also somewhat influenced the restaurants as well,” Zaini says, adding that ambience was a vital element to set in each restaurant.
But at the heart of the food, interior and the restored building is the principle of bringing people together. “Syed Mustaffa chose the name Old Malaya because he felt Malaysians need to be reminded of what we were before we became Malaysia,” Nanthini says, referring to the unity and tolerance among Malayans of the time.
The romanticism of this old Malayan spirit of being a unit, as she explains, is shared by everyone behind the Old Malaya project, including the landlords, architects, designers and restaurateurs. Zaini sums up those sentiments perfectly when he concludes: “We have such a rich and unique history, and we wanted to add to it in hopes that it will be a catalyst for others to follow.”