A former tin-mining settlement in Pahang offers many attractions and produce, writes Ewe Paik Leong
FOUR huge mud figures lumber menacingly along the banks of the pool. My eyes open wider and I almost gape. Have I unwittingly stumbled into the realm of the Mud-Thing, the hideous mud monster in Marvel Comics?
A splash of water makes me flick my gaze to a spot near the edge of the pool. A scrawny white-haired man is scooping mud from the bottom of the pool and plastering his body with the glorious gooey stuff. Then he goes to a shady spot under some trees to allow the mud to dry.
Welcome to Bentong Hot Springs! Located 16km south of Bentong, it consists of two pools. A portion of one pool has been taken by a resort for commercial use and a mural-covered brick wall separates the public and private sections.
Some people pay an arm or a leg to visit exclusive mud spas like Turkey’s Sultaniye Hot Spring, California’s Calistoga Hot Spring and New Zealand’s Hell Gate. Here in Bentong Hot Spring, it’s free! As the Malay saying goes, tunggu apa lagi?
I am about to search for changing rooms when I realise that I’ve forgotten my swimming trunks. Drats! I had to content myself with dipping my feet in the hot spring pool before proceeding to Bentong.
HOW DID BENTONG GET ITS NAME?
Flashback to the late 1880s when the first British Resident was appointed in Pahang: This scene probably took place in an old rest house between two Englishmen.
“By golly, why’re you building more bunds near the confluence of the Repas and Perting rivers?” asked one Englishman as he stroked his handlebar moustache.
The second Englishman lifted a glass of setengah to take a sip. “The bunds are to create more tin-mining ponds.” He put the glass down. “Old chap, the price of tin in London is hitting the sky.”
At that moment, a Chinese waiter brought two plates of Hainanese chicken chops for the two men, overheard the conversation and, as “profitable” is not in his English vocabulary, asked the second Englishman, “Sir, your bund untung?”
“Yes, my bund untung.” Keen to show off he had learnt a Malay word or two, he cast a gaze at his friend and pointed in the direction of a small tin-mining settlement. “There! Bund untung!”
Thus the term of reference “Bund-untung” was born. Through repeated use, the tin-mining settlement gradually became known as Bentong.
MEET MR CROCODILE
My first stop is Mr Crocodile Corner, the town’s most famous restaurant in Jalan Tras. A stuffed crocodile with massive jaws opened greets customers at the entrance. This no-frills restaurant is fan-ventilated and furnished with plastic chairs. A row of red lanterns hanging over the entrance constitute the only decor.
Madam Lee Ah Ying, the operator of Mr Crocodile Corner, says, “We are licensed to sell crocodile meat as our supply comes from a commercial farm in Sarawak. Crocodile soup offers many healthy benefits as it nourishes the lungs, builds up resistance to coughs and improves asthma condition.”
If crocodile meat is not for you, there are fish, chicken and vegetable dishes.
My first dish is crocodile soup which has been double-boiled. The crocodile meat tastes like chicken in texture and the soup delivers a refreshing herbal aroma. Next, stir-fried crocodile tongue is served.
Chewing a piece of the reptilian tongue conjures up images of me French-kissing a crocodile! Yucks! I banish the thought away before I can bring myself to swallow the crunchy stuff. Earlier, I asked for crocodile tail but Madam Lee said it was sold out.
The curtain-closer to my meal is catfish steamed with ginger, scallion and soya sauce. Wow! The fish is super-fresh, possibly just landed from the nearby Bentong River, and the premier quality of the ginger that the town is famous for delivers zesty lemony-and-earthy notes.
For dessert, I go to Kow Po, a famous ice-cream parlour at Bentong Height on the edge of town. White tiles on the restaurant walls reach to waist height and the floor is paved with mosaic tiles. Metal chairs and tables convey an eat-and-scram ambiance and fans on the walls turn in arcs furiously to keep the mercury down. A wall menu displays more than a dozen types of desserts and ice cream of different flavours such as banana, pandan, chocolate, sweet corn, coffee, vanilla, strawberry, durian and coconut. I dig into both cendol and ais kacang, served with ice cream. The home-made ice cream cannot compare to those of KL’s ice cream parlours. Kow Po enjoys brisk business simply because it is the only ice cream shop in town.
GOING AROUND TOWN
Now, for a walkabout in town. In Jalan Chui Yin, the Sunday market is in full swing and stalls line both sides of the road. Except for several stalls selling ginger, it’s like any typical pasar malam. Then I see a sign Bentong Walk and, upon enquiry, a female hawker tells me that this cultural night market operates from 5.30pm to 11pm only on Saturdays.
“You should have come yesterday,” she says. “It’s more exciting than Sunday morning market; there’s singing and dancing on stage, also got cultural products and interesting food stalls.”
As I continue to stroll, the colonial-style Chinese Town Hall catches my attention. Built in 1914, it features an elaborate ram-head pediment at its roofline.
Arabesque motifs painted in gold decorate its first-floor facade walls and three round arches on the ground floor lead to its main entrance. Then at Jalan Ah Peng, another building has the motif 1938 emblazoned on its pediment, and is occupied by an electrical store.
Further ahead, I chance upon a side road with murals. The paintings depict Chamang Waterfall, ginger farmers and durian farmers, among others. As several people are taking turns to pose for photographs, I pass over the opportunity for a selfie and head back to my car.
I drive to Kampung Perting which is cluttered with shabby wooden houses and narrow roads. This old settlement is one of the New Villages established during the 1960s to counter the Communist insurgency. With nothing much to see, I proceed to Kwong Fook Temple in Jalan Loke Yew. This red structure dates back to 1890 and is the oldest building in Bentong.
Onward to Chamang Waterfall via Kampung Chamang. After parking my car, I cross a suspension bridge over Sungei Perting and follow a trail that loops around two camping sites. Dipterocarp forest surrounds me as I trek over undulating grounds and although, I hear chirping, twittering and hoots, I fail to spot any birds or monkeys.
The trail leads back to the suspension bridge and I stroll with tired, trembling legs to the waterfall which tumbles down a series of ponds. The frightening roar of the gushing waters indicates this is not a tame waterfall. The bottom-most pond sees bathers and swimmers but a particular pond in its upper reaches is very deep, which can catch bathers by surprise. This danger spot is indicated by a warning board.
Next, in Kg Ketari in the outskirts of Bentong, I stumble upon the wonderful Masjid Tengku Sulaiman. A main dome and a smaller dome crown this structure and eight minarets project from the surrounding walls. However, only one minaret is fitted with loudspeakers. About 10 spires, each topped with a crescent moon, aesthetically complement the minarets.
Finally, no trip to Bentong is complete without buying durians. Though several makeshift stalls are located in the town, they don’t inspire confidence in me so I go to Bentong Durian House in Jalan Tras, which I found earlier through its Facebook account. This shop not only sells durian but also exports the frozen fruit overseas.
Another excellent buy is lemang from To’ Ki on the same road as Mr Crocodile Corner. This restaurant serves lemang, rendang, satay, Thai dishes and Western fare.