Standing at the Tip of Borneo where two seas meet has Putri Zanina spellbound by its rugged beauty
THE road to Kudat was bumpy. The six of us in the eight-seater van were tired after three hours of travelling on Sabah’s inland road from Kota Kinabalu.
My bottom was bruised from all the bumping. I was so relieved when we reached our destination — the very tip of Borneo, the third largest island in the world, after Greenland and New Guinea. Its northern-most tip is the meeting point of two big seas, the South China Sea and the Sulu Sea.
My heart pounded hard as I walked the tiled road on a small shrubby hill fronting the coast. The wind whipped past as I reached the top and touched a bronze globe that had a map telling me exactly where I was. The spot where I planted my feet was Tanjung Simpang Mengayau, famously known as The Tip Of Borneo.
Standing next to the globe was a tall pole bearing the Malaysian flag. It fluttered in the wind, reaching for the blue sky.
I gingerly made my way to the edge of the headland, rising from the sea like a rocky loaf. Below, the waves pounded mercilessly. The churning waters and the strong winds over the ages had left natural patterns on the slope of the cliff face. The patterns looked like sea waves, tinted with pastel shades of light brown and off-white against the rugged greyish-black rocky headland.
The Tip of Borneo is one of the most stunning spots I have ever come across in our country. And being there felt as awesome as being at the southernmost tip of mainland Asia at Tanjung Piai in south-west Johor. Standing at both tips made me feel like a tiny pinhead on the world map. But I must say that the view at Tanjung Simpang Mengayau is far more spell-binding than at marshy Tanjung Piai.
The coastline in this part of Sabah is treacherous. Ships had sunk in the area. A lighthouse on Pulau Kalampunian, visible from the headland, is a reminder of past shipwrecks. The cape was also a battleground in the old days. It was originally called Tanjung (cape) Sampang (junction) Mangazou (battle) in the language of the Rungus, the natives of Kudat. Their forefathers had fought fierce battles to defend Rungus territory against invading enemies, including the Moro pirates who terrorised the Sulu Sea.
Spanish sailor and navigator Juan Sebastian del Cano, who set sail with Portuguese explorer Ferdinand Magellan in a gruelling expedition to circumnavigate the Earth in the 16th century had also stopped at Tanjung Simpang Mengayau for 42 days to have his ships repaired and fresh supplies stocked up.
According to Abdul Latip Talib, author of Enrique Melaka, del Cano and a Portuguese navigator, Joao De Lopes Carvalho, proceeded with the expedition after Magellan was killed earlier at Mactan Island near Cebu in The Philippines. Magellan’s right hand man and interpreter, Enrique Melaka a.k.a. Panglima Awang disappeared in Cebu after Magellan’s death. He was hailed as the first Malay to have taken part in the circumnavigation of the Earth.
Meanwhile, the sailors who stopped at Tanjung Simpang Mengayau were at first welcomed by the Rungus, who were happy to trade with the foreigners. However, over time, the sailors started to steal the locals’ livestock and vegetables, and harassed Rungus girls, which angered the locals. A battle broke out that forced the foreign invaders to leave the cape. The victorious Rungus hailed this as the battle of all battles, and named the cape Tanjung Sampang Mangazou.
Historic significance adds to the lure of the place, now one of the major tourist attractions in Kudat. But there are other hidden gems here. For one, the rugged coast with its long and secluded fine sandy beaches. These are tranquil havens away from it all. Not only are the seas a vivid blue and the sand sparkling white, the wetlands, the forests and the rivers also add to its lush natural beauty.
To discover some of these hidden spots, stay in the village of the Rungus. One of the more authentic homestays here is the Misompuru Homestay which also offers the option to stay in a typical Rungus longhouse at one of the secluded beaches near Tanjung Simpang Mengayau. You can also venture into the wetlands, sample Rungus food, see cultural performances and craft-making demonstrations. Rungus women are well-known for their fine beadwork while the men still make the traditional brass gongs, a musical instrument. Kampung Sumangkap near the Tip of Borneo has a gong-making workshop.
A good time to visit is the Sunset Music Fest at Tip of Borneo, Sabah’s biggest open air concert, held annually in the middle of the year. Just imagine: music permeating the air as the sun is setting and the waves crashing against the dramatic cliff where the two seas meet.
For Putri Zanina, the joy and depth of life come from encounters with experiences in both old and new places. Reach her at traveltimes@nst.com.my