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Traditional nian gao goes modern with Koh

KOTA KINABALU: Making nian gao or rice cake, which is a must-have dish during Chinese New Year, has always been a dream to pursue for Koh Kok Cheng during his younger days.

Nian gao, which symbolises progress, advancement and growth, is a popular gift when visiting family and friends during the Lunar festivities.

Inspired by his grandmother's nian gao, Koh from Luyang has prepared a modernised version of the delicacy.

"The nian gao I make is not sticky. It can be cut and eaten immediately.

"I use the oven to prepare the nian gao. Traditionally, a steamer is used, making the nian gao sticky and difficult to cut," said Koh who is the director of Tok Kelapa, a manufacturer of coconut food-based products.

"My grandmother, Tan Chin Mei but popularly known as O-Tiam-So to her customers, would make traditional Chinese cakes including nian gao and sold it in the town's market in Papar.

"I got serious about making nian gao after a customer approached me for authentic Sabah-made souvenirs," said Koh.

He said the basic ingredients he used were similar to others in the market — glutinous rice, flour, sugar and water.

"What sets my nian gao apart is that I add coconut milk. It also comes with an eye-catching package complete with a packet of oolong tea, glove and knife (to cut the nian gao)," said Koh.

He said a lot of effort had gone into designing the package box and the stylish "mini handbag", as he aspires to create a product that represents Sabah's identity.

"We came up with the orang utan logo which is synonymous to Sabah and the headgear he is wearing represents the Rungus community in Kudat, who is the first indigenous people to plant coconut in Sabah," said Koh.

Koh dedicated his venture into making nian gao to his grandmother.

"It took me countless times to get the formula right, and my grandmother would be the tester.

"I always admired my grandmother's sheer determination. She would always strive to learn more about the culinary world. When she was in her 70s, my grandmother learnt how to make yu char kway (long golden-brown deep-fried strip of dough of Chinese origin).

"Spiritually, she is always here to guide me," said Koh, whose beloved grandmother died at the age of 103 a while back.

Since the nian gao is only produced during the Chinese New Year, Koh said he was looking for ways to innovate the dish so that it would be available all year round.

"In doing so, we can create job opportunities for the locals and income for the suppliers in Kudat."

Ends.

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