IN Sabah, the traditional practices of brewing tapai and lihing are integral parts of the local culture, symbolising unity and resilience among the communities.
These traditional rice wines are not only beverages but also a link connecting generations through their rich history and cultural significance.
CULTURAL AND HISTORICAL SIGNIFICANCE
Tapai is often considered a cornerstone of Sabahan heritage, with a history that stretches back centuries.
It has played a symbolic role in historical events such as the Murut resistance against British taxation in the early 20th century.
According to Dr. Callistus Fernandez's research, tapai is central to various cultural ceremonies and social rituals in Sabah, from birth celebrations to weddings and harvest festivals, playing a vital role in strengthening community ties.
BREWING AND CULTURAL PRACTICES
The preparation of tapai involves fermenting rice, tapioca, or pineapple, resulting in a range of flavours from bittersweet to sour-sweet, reflecting the diverse tastes of Sabah's ethnic groups.
The alcohol content in tapai can vary significantly, emphasising its role in social celebrations and gatherings where it fosters social bonds.
LIHING: A REFINED TRADITIONAL BREW
Lihing, another traditional Sabahan brew, is known for its refined quality. It is made from glutinous rice and undergoes a longer fermentation process, which gives it a translucent amber colour and a smoother taste compared to tapai.
Lihing is not only consumed as a beverage but is also used in various local dishes, such as Lihing Chicken and Drunken Crabs, showcasing the adaptability of Sabah's indigenous flavours in culinary practices.
ADAPTING TRADITIONS IN MODERN TIMES
As Sabah progresses, the traditions of tapai and lihing exemplify the persistence of cultural practices amidst modernisation. Despite the changes brought by technological advancements and new social dynamics, the communal essence of sharing tapai at gatherings, known locally as tiiman, remains a cherished cultural practice.
These traditions continue to foster the core Sabahan values of respect, camaraderie, and hospitality, ensuring that tapai and lihing remain symbols of Sabah's cultural identity.