JONATHAN Liang understands the perception behind homegrown label Bonia -- it's viewed as a brand for mature women.
Founded in 1974, Bonia reached its golden age in the 1980s. Its Italian inspiration marketing campaigns filled up glossies and billboards, and its bags were on the shoulders of young women then. My mother was one of its fans.
"My mum used Bonia too," Liang, who's the brand creative director says, with a sense of pride in his voice.
But when other brands, in 2022, would pivot towards a "younger market", specifically Gen-Z, Liang says there's nothing wrong with being the brand of choice for mature women.
"We want them to feel represented but what the brand is doing now, is building a universe in which everyone, from every generation, can find enjoyment in," he says.
"There are many brands that everyone from Gen-Z to baby boomers gravitate towards. Look at Louis Vuitton and Prada. There's a relatability in their products for all generations."
SOMETHING DIFFERENT
The fashion designer has been with the brand since 2020, first as a consultant creative director before assuming the position last year. Since then, he had begun to transform Bonia into something it was not known for.
Take its carriers, for example. Once upon a time, when a popular brand had a bag shape that's exceedingly popular, Bonia would have one too, adapted to the brand.
"Bonia came from a time when fashion was trend-focused. But things have since changed. Fashion and fashion consumers have evolved," he says.
Since 2020, Bonia's carriers have become increasingly original in conception and architectural in design. Last year, the brand rolled out the cool Ixora Tiffin Bag, a leather crossbody bag shaped after the traditional tiffin carrier. It was cute and visually arresting.
In mirror-shine finish, the Venice satchel is a fancy, futuristic bag that's great for evening.
Liang says that's the road the brand is taking.
"Thanks to the Internet, everyone is educated about style and culture. People no longer carry a bag because it looks beautiful. They carry a bag because that bag matches their personality and philosophy.
"We want to lead a trend, to create signature styles and be an incubator of great design culture so we can look at an item differently and give an out-of-the-box interpretation," he says.
Liang says the Ixora Tiffin Bag and the Gianna Bag (a small, moon-shaped shoulder bag) are examples that carriers, like other things, should be designed for a reason.
"There's a bit of culture in the Ixora Tiffin Bag and for Gianna, it's small, compact and comfortable to carry," he says.
THE THING ABOUT BRANDING
Aside from rolling out products, branding, Liang says, takes a lot of time. "We're probably halfway there and I'm proud with what the brand has achieved."
Last year, it had its first collaboration with local star Scha Alyahya, with a series of bags, shoes and shawls, co-designed by Scha and the Bonia design team. "We had our own metaverse with the B Airport Digital World and this year, our Suria KLCC store was launched with a new concept, by an interior architect," he says.
London-based firm Oskar Kohnen Studio was appointed to design the space. "We wanted someone who understood our brand's vision, and who could blend art and fashion in an experiential space that was progressive and inquisitive, which Oskar does perfectly," Liang says.
"The store challenges the way people view Bonia as a lifestyle, luxury brand," he says, adding that the space resembles a museum or a gallery, where items are displayed in an artistic manner.
GLOBAL BRAND
Liang says in the age where global consumers appreciate items that come from small provinces or countries, building a name for Bonia overseas comes with a different strategy.
"The fact that the products are made in Malaysia is already a good branding for Bonia. Malaysia being a small Southeast Asian country with strong heritage and artisanal products."
He says exclusive items are made in Malaysia and that will help launch the brand overseas.
"I guess for Malaysians, it's re-educating them about what Bonia was and what it is, but for the overseas market, it's a clean slate and in a way, that's easier."
But ultimately, Liang says, he wants Bonia to be generation-inclusive. "And I think we're getting there."
He's right. Two months ago, I met my cousin, who's 27, and my aunt, who's 55, and both were carrying Bonia's leather water bottle holder, one in monogram, the other in black.
And the surprise was that, it was my young cousin who introduced it to my aunt.
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