Curiosity about former French colonies leads Shah Shamshiri to Algiers
WHILE furthering my studies in France, I learnt of the many countries colonised by the French, particularly those in Africa. The ones that caught my interest were the nations of North Africa, often referred to as the “pays maghrebin”, meaning “countries of the Maghreb”. They comprise Morocco, Tunisia and Algeria, whose people are also among the largest group of immigrants in present-day France.
My curiosity led me to ask questions of my campus mates hailing from these nations about their respective home countries. Two years ago I had the opportunity to visit a few cities in Morocco. And recently, when I found a cheap air ticket to North Africa, I just could not miss the chance to further satisfy my curiosity.
ALGIERS
This burning curiosity took me to Algiers, the capital of Algeria, the largest African country on that continent. While many tend to associate Africans as dark-skinned people, Algerians, on the other hand, are mostly fair in complexion.
The people and the country have a rich history and civilisation. But unlike its neighbours Tunisia and Morocco, Algeria is not known for designating tourism as one of its sources of income. Despite this, the country and its people ooze charm; my tour of the city (thanks to assistance from the Algerian Ministry of Culture) was proof of this.
Upon arriving in the city, I couldn’t help but notice the similarities that Algiers shares with Paris, from the signboards (with French translations) right up to the road system and architecture. Like most former European colonies, the old buildings in the capital represent the impact left by the French many years ago. And like Paris and other French cities, Algiers too has a Metro line; an underground train system which I used to get to the different parts of the city.
TAKING IN THE CITY
Algiers is situated on the west side of a bay of the Mediterranean Sea. The modern part of the city is built on level ground, by the seashore while the older parts — the ancient city of the deys (deys refer to the title given to commanders or governors of the Janissaries of Algiers) — is up the steep hill behind the modern town and is crowned by the casbah or citadel, standing at 122 metres above sea level.
Steeped in history, Algiers has quite a tale to tell and the best place to learn its past would be from the many museums found in the city. Among them is the Bardo National Museum. Formerly a Moorish villa, it was later turned into a museum andopenedin1927.It gives insight into the origins and cultural background of Algeria and its people.
Since all museums were within the city’s reach, I visited the Palais des Rais also known as Bastion 23. Originally, it consisted of three palaces and six houses and you’ll find it a great place to enjoy the view of the ocean from the waterfront area of Algiers.
Another building that caught my sight was the grand post office, located right in the middle of the city centre. Another must visit site is the Jardin d’Essai also known as The Test Garden of Hamma. It is a 58-hectare botanical garden and currently houses some 1,200 species of plants from all over the world!
THE ETERNAL FLAME
I had a chance to perform Friday prayer at one of the famous mosques, the Ketchaoua Mosque.
Located at the foot of the Casbah, it was built during the Ottoman rule in the 17th century and is now a United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation (Unesco) World Heritage Site. During French rule, it was converted into the Cathedral of St Philippe and remained so until 1962.
The mosque retains its original grandeur and is one of the main attractions of Algiers.
From the quaint lanes of the Casbah’s nook and crannies, I made my way to one of Algiers’ most significant icons, the Martyrs’ Memorial Monumen, an iconic concrete monument commemorating the Algerian war for independence.
It is fashioned in the shape of three standing palm leaves that shelter the “Eternal Flame” beneath. At the edge of each palm leaf, stands a statue of a soldier, each representing a stage of Algeria’s struggle.
The grounds of the monument have become a popular spot for Algerians to spend the weekend, with parents bringing their children to enjoy rides and toys offered by the many merchants.
Algiers is a good introduction to what Algeria offers but I was advised to also visit the other cities to truly behold all the country’s treasures. I will return to explore more when time permits!