David Bowden returns to Halong Bay and witnesses a vast difference to this northern part of Vietnam which he first visited in the early 1990s after watching the French movie Indochine
AFTER arriving at Hanoi’s Noi Boi Airport late in the evening and then with a 2 ½ hour limousine transfer to Halong Bay in northern Vietnam, I can only say that my room at the Vinpearl Resort is a most welcomed sight when I finally arrive at 2am.
I find that hotel impressions are formed in the first few minutes of arrival and I must say Vinpearl in Halong Bay passes the test with flying colours.
Firstly, the effortless pick-up arrangement at the airport, the phone call from the resort soon after enquiring if I need a meal upon arrival and then a short transition from check-in to my comfortable bed, provides a lasting impression. While this is not my first trip to Halong Bay, it is the one done with the most style.
In the early 1990s, I travelled there when Vietnam was just opening up after the war years and services at best were rudimentary.
Then, my day-long journey to the capital of Quang Ninh Province began with a train trip from Hanoi to the port of Haiphong, a scurry across town to the port to catch a ride on a ferry across Halong Bay to the then scruffy coal port that was the departure point to the islands.
The 1992 Oscar-winning French movie Indochine (which, by the way, was mostly filmed in Malaysia) introduced me and many others to the magnificent beauty of the islands scattered across Halong Bay.
On the big screen, it all looked magnificent and romantic but the port I arrived at then was far from either. There was no accommodation to speak of and I stayed in a room in somebody’s house and then spent a few days on the water, far from the coal dumps while marvelling at the beautiful islands.
WORLD RECOGNITION
In 1994, the area became a Unesco World Heritage Site to offer protection for some 2,000 islands scattered over 1,553 square kilometres of a mostly tranquil bay.
The tourists started arriving and they have not stopped. Most travel here to enjoy a cruise around a few of the islands while some small cruise ships offer accommodation and the opportunity to travel to remote islands and bays far away from the day-trippers.
The dramatic limestone topography is described by geologists as karst and is typified by a myriad of sculptured, forest-covered islands with steep limestone outcrops and caves.
These picturesque outcrops provide the backdrop for cruises lasting from just a few hours to several days. Overnight cruise ships offer trips starting from two-day, one-night and some even incorporate a seaplane flight from Hanoi to Halong Bay.
Kayaking around the shallows is about as strenuous as things get on most cruises although there are other opportunities for exploring caves both on the land and via narrow passages known as hongs.
Smaller cruise boats operate half-day or day trips and it is best to do some homework to compare what the various operators offer and to match these with your requirements.
Most boats depart from Bai Chay (Halong City), where there is a ticket office and orderly arrangements for hiring a boat.
Individual travellers or small groups may see benefit in joining other small groups as the boats are quite large and there is plenty of room for passengers to relax.
Meals may need to be negotiated separately and on budget cruises, it is best to be self-sufficient and bring your own food and drinks.
Day cruises tend to follow a set sailing pattern which involves visiting a floating school, being paddled through caves (for an extra fee), exploring caves such as Thien Cung on Dau Go Island, visiting lookouts and swimming close to shore on near-deserted beaches.
Vietnam is now a country on the move; keep an eye on it. Halong Bay is well and truly on the global tourism stage with a golf course (FLC Halong Bay), international hotels, cable car rides and even a rollercoaster theme park.
Shoppers can drop by Vincom Mall, Marine Plaza or Big C as well as visit local Halong and Vuon Dao Markets. Some local products to seek out include apricot wine, Ba Kich Wine, honey, betel nut oil, coal sculptures and rattan baskets.
Close by, the pagodas of Yen Tu sacred mountains offer a montane escape from the bay.
Now is a good time to take in the amazing beauty of Halong Bay before it becomes crowded with cruise line passengers expected to reach five million per annum by 2030.
ISLAND RESORT
My hotel of choice is the Vinpearl Resort and Spa Ha Long, the only island-located resort.
I am grateful for this as it offers a tranquil setting far from the madding crowd that Halong Bay has now become.
While just located offshore, I wake every morning to sea views and the magical islands on the horizon. It is comforting to know that, had I wanted all the town action, it is just a short ferry ride away.
The 384-room resort extends over eight floors of a building of classic European design. Rooms are stylish and with every modern convenience including WiFi throughout the property.
Interestingly, guests can opt for rates that just cover bed and breakfast or full-board of breakfast, lunch and dinner. I enjoy breakfast in Bayview Restaurant and dinner in Ayoka, a specialty Vietnamese and Asian restaurant, where a local specialty dish called cha muc or deep-fried squid cake is served.
Recreational facilities in the hotel include beaches, Kids’ Centre, expansive outdoor pool, watersports, gym, tennis, indoor heated pool, jacuzzi, sauna and steam room.
HOW TO GET THERE
There are direct flights on Vietnam Airlines (www.vietnamairlines.com) between Kuala Lumpur and Hanoi with flights taking 3.5 hours.
GETTING AROUND
From the airport, Halong Bay is 2.5 hour’s drive (220km) north along mostly freeway conditions. Van Don Airport (50km from Halong Bay) opened late last year and direct flights in from Malaysia could be a possibility in the near future.
A new 60km-long, four-lane highway, new airport and just built cruise terminal have made Halong Bay and the Quang Ninh Province more accessible for
travellers.
VISA
Malaysians don’t require a visa to visit Vietnam but many other nationalities do.
Confirm this with the Embassy of Vietnam in Kuala Lumpur or obtain a visa online (www.vietnam-evisa.org).
Where to Stay Vinpearl Resort and Spa Ha Long (www.vinpearl.com).
WHEN TO VISIT
Summer is from May to October and winter from November to April (it can get quite cold).
Typhoons from April to October may mean that boats will not take to sea if there is an imminent typhoon threat.
Contacts www.halongtourism.
com.vn
PICTURES BY DAVID BOWDEN
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