Royal interest in the Tenun Pahang has elevated its status in the crafts and heritage sphere. Hanna Hussein takes a trip to Pekan to observe the making of this fine fabric
SIMPLE yet elegant, Tenun Pahang Diraja is the fashion choice of our Raja Permaisuri Agong Tunku Azizah Aminah Maimunah Iskandariah.
This delicate fabric is very exclusive — a samping of less than three metres can cost more than RM300 a piece. In fact, prices could go up to thousands of ringgit!
Intrigued, I travel to Pekan to visit Pulau Keladi Cultural Complex, which houses the Pahang Royal Weaving Skills Institute (IKTPD). There, I see for myself the complicated art of silk weaving, and what makes it so extravagant.
ROYAL TENUN
Pulau Keladi is not your typical beach island with a long sandy shoreline; in fact, it is not really an island. Instead, it is just a small village located on the banks of the Pahang River, just a 10-minute drive from the Royal Town of Pekan.
Here, we meet with Norakama Zakaria, the product manager of Perniagaan Sutera Pulau Keladi which is under the auspices of Tenun Pahang Diraja. She will be taking us on a tour to see a part of the four-acre land which consists of a few facilities of IKTPD as well as other attractions.
Our tour starts from the weaving centre where we see the complex process of Tenun Pahang. But before we do that, Norakama briefs us on the history of this exclusive fabric’s origins.
Originally from Riau or Sulawesi, the fabric was brought into the peninsula in the 16th century by the Makasar community which settled in Kampung Mengkasar, Pekan. The Tok Tuan or Keraing Aji was the person responsible for improving the technique of silk weaving, which later came to be known as Tenun Pahang.
Tunku Azizah’s involvement in the development of Tenun Pahang began in 2005. A year later, Yang di-Pertuan Agong Al-Sultan Abdullah Ri’ayatuddin Al-Mustafa Billah Shah, who was then the Tengku Mahkota of Pahang, accorded the title “royal” and renamed it “Tenun Pahang Diraja”. Its development is closely monitored by the queen herself, and because of her deep interest, she also founded IKTPD in 2010 to train young people in particular, by offering a two-year weaving craft certificate programme.
There are different motifs and patterns found in Tenun Pahang, and unlike other hand-woven designs such as songket (which is more intricately patterned with gold or silver threads), Tenun Pahang is more basic and finely crafted with soft colours.
More often, Pahang woven fabrics use basic patterns, either elongated, or with horizontal lines, or checkered. One way to recognise Tenun Pahang is by the small floral dotted ornament known as colek scattered on the fabric which usually uses metallic threads, customarily with little tails.
According to Norakama, the process of making Tenun Pahang is very tedious and needs a lot of patience.
One weaver will concentrate on only doing one design — which takes days — and he or she will do everything from the beginning to the end.
The first step is to separate the yarns which is called melikas. Traditionally, weavers separate the raw yarns into small bundles which is known as hanks. It will be separated into around 30 threads and then soaked overnight in a solution made of the ashes of burnt coconut palm fronds, the skin of durian, or in an alum solution. This is because silk in its raw state is harsh and yellowish in colour and the process will result in soft and silky threads ready for the next step — dyeing.
Natural dyes using vegetables and minerals such as safflower, tumeric, tropical almond, and many more are usually used to create beautiful colours. The hanks of yarns are soaked first in water and then dipped until the desired colour is achieved. The colour intensity depends on the length of time the yarns remain in the dye bath. Few other steps follow but before they can be woven, the dyed yarns must be strained and then hung on a horizontal bamboo pole which will be rotated regularly to allow them to dry in the shade. However, today many prefer to use synthetic dyes to get colour consistency.
After the yarns are completely dried, they will undergo a few other steps starting with menerau (spooling of the thread); mengani, which is to prepare the textiles’ warp threads using a warping frame, menyusuk or threading; menggulung, in which yarns that have been threaded are wound to a kayu gulung or roller beam so that each thread is evenly tensioned and not twisted or crossed over another thread; mengubung, which is to connect the wrapped yarns to the karap or Handle Eyes; meneguh, which is to firm and ensure that the threads are not broken or worn so that no imperfections appear in the final weave; and menenun, which is when the weaving process begins!
Not only must weavers have patience, he or she must also have the passion to really master the skills of Tenun Pahang. It’s an interesting sight to see the works of IKTPD’s current as well as former students. To date, there are more than 21 students who have successfully completed their training.
Here at Pulau Keladi Cultural Complex, we also get to see Malaysia’s second prime minister Tun Abdul Razak Hussein’s birth place. We get to see the house he was born in, restored to its glorious state. Inside are some items belonging to the family.
Besides that, you can also view a unique Malay Traditional House of Pahang which was owned by Mohamad Dahian, the village headman of Kampung Raja Songsang in Temerloh. The house is made of hardwood and built using the mortise and peg joint method.
SIGHTS OF PEKAN
Aside from Pulau Keladi, Pekan is also famous as the royal town. I get to go on a drive-through for a glimpse of this beautiful town.
Pekan, which name is derived from a plant called Bunga Pekan which used to grow wild on the banks of Pahang River, is a very laid back town with not many vehicles. It’s so relaxing just to go on a joyride around the area.
First, we drive to Kampung Padang Manggis where the royal palace, the Abu Bakar Palace, is located. Surprisingly, the palace is surrounded by simple kampung houses and I feel like I have been transported to the past. We don’t get to go inside the palace but its main entrance makes a good background for a photo opportunity.
Not too far from the royal palace is one of Malaysia’s historic polo clubs, the famous Royal Pahang Polo Club. Formerly known as Sultan Abu Bakar Iskandar Polo Club, it was founded by Sultan Iskandar of Perak in 1923 and had its name changed in 1926.
If you have the time, do visit another iconic landmark in Pekan, which is the Sultan Abu Bakar Museum, a stunning white building constructed in the1920s during the British Malaya era. It was the official residence of a British resident during colonial times, then an army barrack under the invading Japanese army during World War II, and then the official palace of Sultan Abu Bakar before being converted into a museum in1976. Here, you will learn about the royal history of Pahang, as it showcases a well-documented history of the state and its royal house.
But if you are not into museums and historical sites and just want a relaxing time with the family, you can drive to the nearest beach, Pantai Air Leleh, which is less than 20 minutes drive from the town.
STAY WITH FAMILY
While in Pekan, my family and I book a stay at what is probably the only four-star resort hotel in the area, the Ancasa Royale Pekan.
Honestly, I didn’t have high hopes when I made the booking. However, when we arrive at the resort, which is located by the banks of the Pahang River, it amazes us with the view from the pool area.
The lobby is grand and impressive, and the staff are friendly and attentive. It does not take us long to check in.
We had booked two deluxe premier rooms connected to each other, ideal for a family of four. It is a spacious room with large windows overlooking the river and each room has a bathroom complete with a bathtub!
The deco is modern and minimal and incorporates some tenun designs to give it a feel of Pahang. I am totally impressed by the spaciousness of the room, considering that the hotel is in a small town.
The hotel mainly targets business travellers but it is also ideal for families looking for a quiet holiday in a laidback town. Many well-known people have stayed at the hotel, including Datuk Seri Najib Razak and his family.
The hotel boasts one food and beverage outlet called the Saffron Brasserie. It serves both local and international cuisines. The restaurant opens daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner from 6.30am to 10.30pm.
My family and I also try out some of the famous local favourites prepared by the Chef. To be honest, I’m not really a fan of patin and tempoyak — two of Pahang’s must-try food, but since I am here, I order Pais Patin, a well-known delicacy. The tempoyak is mild, and the patin is fresh and soft. We also order two other famous dishes, which are the Opor Daging and Pudding Raja.
RELAXING AFFAIR
Before I head back to Kuala Lumpur, I decide to experience the new AnCasa Cemara Puri Spa. I have booked a slot in the morning and upon my arrival at the spa, I am given a treatment menu to choose from.
Located within the hotel itself, it offers holistic Malay body massages, foot reflexology, facials, body scrubs and wraps with all-natural spices and essential oil blends. Treatments available includes Balinese, Thai and Malay traditional treatments.
Ina, my therapist, suggests either the Malay Traditional Massage with its strong touch to improve blood flow or the Signature Massage which is a combination of Malay, Balinese and Thai therapy. I opt for the Malay Massage.
Her strong fingers really relax my tense muscles and stretches them. She uses aromatic essential oils which smell so good, almost floral-like. Thanks to the subdued scent of aromatherapy oils and soft instrumental music playing in the background, it’s impossible not to feel immediately relaxed!
The therapy lasts an hour and only cost RM130. A perfect way to end my short getaway!
FAST FACTS
ANCASA ROYALE PEKAN PAHANG
WHERE 2670, Jalan PekanKuantan, Kampung Peramu 26600 Pekan, Pahang
TEL 09-424 6600
FAX 09-424 6700
EMAIL ar.reservation@ancasahotels.com
WEBSITE www.ancasahotels.com.my/royale-pekan
STAY There are 133 stylish guest rooms, all with large bay windows and a comfortable bed for a good night’s sleep. Guests can opt for Deluxe Premier, Family Suite, Junior Suite, Executive Suite or Premier Suite.
EAT Saffron Brasserie is an all-day dining venue, which serves a lavish spread of local and international cuisines. Your dining experience is further heightened with the sight of the beautiful Pahang River.
DO Pamper yourself at AnCasa Cemara Puri Spa, enjoy the sun by the pool, head to the gym for a workout, or chill out at the only club in town, the S2dio Sports Cafe that features a live DJ, offering cool vibes if you’re in the mood for great music and a vibrant club scene.
GO It is situated within close proximity to the Pahang River andashort drive away from attractions such as the Sultan Abdullah Mosque Museum, Silk Weaving Gallery, Sultan Abu Bakar Museum and Pantai Air Leleh.
HIGH Spacious bedroom with a view at such an affordable price.
LOW Nothing much to do after sunset around Pekan town.
SHEER DRIVING PLEASURE
LONG-distance driving can be so exhausting, but not if you are behind the wheels of the new New BMW X3 xDrive30i Luxury line. My journey to the east coast is so enjoyable and comfortable, and most importantly, stress-free!
The premium mid-sized Sports Activity Vehicle (SAV) has a very sporty and aggresive outlook, with lots of space and practicality.
The interior has leather seats that are luxurious and comfortable for both driver and passenger. On top of that, the BMW X3 xDrive30i Luxury line offers a premium entertainment experience with a 10.25” Touchscreen Navigation System Professional, the iDrive Touch and a HiFi system with 12 speakers. Comfort is elevated with the triple-zone automatic climate control air-conditioning system!
The driving experience is another thing — no doubt it is engineered for driving. It has a quick respond with super smooth gear shift — well, whenever you want the power and control, it can perform, giving you the satisfaction and joy of driving long-distance with no pressure at all.
Transmission type: 8-speed Steptronic Sport transmission
Cylinders / Capacity (cc): In-line 4 / 1,998
Max output (kW/hp/rpm): 185 / 252 / 5,200-6,500
Top speed (km/h): 240
Max torque (Nm/rpm): 350 /1,450 — 4,800
Fuel consumption (ltr/100km): 7.6
Safety Specs:
• Airbags for driver and front passenger with seat-occupancy detection.
•Central locking system with electronic immobiliser and crash sensor with closing of the windows and folding of the exterior mirrors.
• Driving Stability Control (DSC) including ABS.
• Dynamic Traction Control (DTC), Automatic Differential Brake (ADB-X), Cornering Brake Control (CBC), Dynamic Brake Control (DBC), Start-Off Assistant and Hill Descent Control (HDC).
• Dynamic braking lights with flashing function.
• Head airbags, front and rear (curtain).
• ISOFIX child seat mounting in the rear.
• Run-flat tyres with flat tyre indicator.
• Side airbags for driver and front passenger.