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Dining with the demon chef

I’VE watched all four seasons of MasterChef Canada and never once have I ever dreamt of sharing a space with one of the judges, the one known by the startling moniker of the Demon Chef, a.k.a Chef Alvin Leung. With that streak of blue-dyed hair and his sharp hip look, he certainly strikes a formidable figure.

It’s hardly surprising then that when I did get the chance to have an audience with this maverick chef on his recent flying visit to Kuala Lumpur, I had butterflies raging — not fluttering — in my tummy. Nervously, I start to throw some names of popular MasterChef Canada’s alumni simply to break the ice. But it’s not needed after all. In the end, Leung is more interested to turn our chat to the subject of street food culture in Malaysia — the very reason why he’s in this part of the world.

The dynamic chef had taken some time off from the on-going production of the show to fly into town from Canada just for a night to present a specially curated menu for a special event hosted by the Hong Kong Trade Development Council (HKTDC) recently.

Leung shares that the inspiration behind the menu celebrates the common links between Malaysia and Hong Kong. “The economic ties are very important and well-linked, but culturally, we also have so much in common. The use of dried seafood, spices and method of cooking are similar. Through these similarities and differences, I try to blend in the flavours and techniques into my dishes,” he begins.

SEEING IS BELIEVING

With all the hype surrounding our nasi lemak, the latest one being our national costume for the recent Miss Universe pageant, it’s no surprise to see this national favourite make an appearance in Leung’s menu. Inspired by nasi lemak, the 56-year-old chef presented a starter dish served in a 4-inch brass-patinaed canister atop a black slate.

Suffice to say, it’s exquisitely presented. One look, two sniffs, three chin-rubs, four photos and five seconds later, I empty the canister. But where’s the rice? I couldn’t help muttering. “I was inspired by the flavours of the nasi lemak and created these white coconut-milk infused ‘caviars’ that represent the rice in this signature Malaysian dish. Spiced anchovies, spring onion and pine nuts are used to garnish the dish and add textures,” explains Leung.

The surprise element — like in most of Leung’s creations — lies at the bottom of the canister. Covered by the milky white “rice pearls”, a spiced tuna tartare ties the whole dish together. The crunch from the anchovies, the subtle fragrance of coconut milk from the “caviars” and the spicy tartare akin to the mandatory sambal, come together in a burst of flavours that we Malaysians have grown to love.

“In order to create surprises, you must understand what the dish is without the surprise. Before I create the special ‘wow’ element, I have to revisit every component to make sure I get the authentic DNA right. That is the basic foundation when I want to create a new dish. Then you play around with the dressing and ‘cosmetics’ for the external aesthetics,” says Leung, emphasising on the importance of firstly, eating with our eyes.

GASTRONOMIC ENGINEER

Like the stories of many great chefs, Leung’s is also no less intriguing. In between his recollections and anecdotes, he shares: “I’ve always been interested in food but I studied engineering due to filial responsibilities. My family runs an engineering company and as the eldest son, I was expected to continue the tradition. But I’ve always enjoyed cooking.”

Eventually, the opportunity came for him to enter the culinary world. “A good friend asked me to become a partner in a restaurant and that subsequently became Bo Innovation, my three-Michelin-star flagship eatery,” he confides.

As a trained engineer, he loves to experiment with ingredients and techniques. As the mains are being served, it becomes evident that Leung’s approach emphasises on the balance between all the senses.

Inspired by a common popular dish in both Malaysia and Hong Kong, the Hainanese Chicken Rice is the main reference for his next dish. The fragrance wafts immediately around the dining table, perfuming the surrounds with a strong hint of ginger and Chinese herbs.

You’d be fairly disappointed if you’re expecting the typical flavoured rice and poached chicken. In Leung’s cooking books, nothing is ever as straightforward. At the bottom of the plate is a dollop of flavoured risotto representing the ‘rice’. Leung then prepares a crispy skin chicken cooked French style and stuffed in ballottine, which he places atop the extra fluffy rice.

And instead of the usual vinegary chilli sauce and pounded ginger condiment, he uses pickled beetroot and cauliflower to complement the dish.

Surprisingly, the slices of pickled beetroot and cauliflower add a hint of spiciness and tanginess that bring to mind the flavour of the typical chilli sauce. The acidity of the pickled vegetables also balances the creaminess of the risotto. Tying the dish together, chef drizzles a silky smooth sauce infused with earthy dong guai goodness.

Alongside the chicken rice dish which Leung has named Magical Phoenix, there’s another familiar favourite — the laksa. Calling it the Sizzling Glitz from Two Cities, the dish, his second main course option, comprises spicy rice noodles served with a laksa-inspired sauce, deep-fried shrimp dumplings and flavoured with dried shrimp oil prepared specially by the chef himself.

“I think in general Malaysia has a much more rustic cuisine. There are more spices in that special Asian mix of elements from Chinese to Indian to Malay ingredients. I love to try new foodstuff whenever I’m in a new country,” enthuses Leung, as he goes on to regale us all about a dish he once made using fermented durian and morning glory. “You can imagine how funky that was!”

SWEET ENDING

When Leung was first introduced to Malaysian cuisine, his first excursion was to Jalan Alor where he had his taste of spicy satay. Slowly he began exploring new food items such as the nasi lemak, rojak, dimsum and steamboats.

“I’ve seen Malaysian food grow on the global scene. It’s not just well known in Asia but is really coming up rapidly in Europe and Canada,” shares Leung, who later confides that one of the things he has enjoyed most during his trips to Malaysia is having breakfast on the streets of Kuala Lumpur.

“I love kaya toast!” he quips, adding that having breakfast in the traditional local kopitiam is something he’d like to do more often here.

And the kopitiam culture is not so dissimilar to the cha chaan teng (tea house) in Hong Kong. Marrying the two together, the final dish on the menu — Space Cafe — is Leung’s interpretation of the breakfast or teatime culture that’s very special to both Malaysians and Hong Kong people. For his finale piece de resistance, Leung incorporates his signature molecular gastronomy for a dramatic touch.

Enthusiastically, he explains: “Molecular gastronomy is a compromise between magic and reality. I rejuvenate the typical cha chaan teng with some molecular fun. The yin-yang (a mixture of coffee and milk tea) becomes Earl Grey meringue and chocolate flavoured with coffee. The pineapple bun is transformed into a condensed milk panna cotta with pineapple topping. And topping it off is a Malaysian blizzard of pandan and coconut.”

Taking the very best from Malaysia and Hong Kong food culture, the representation of flavours for each component of the dish takes you back to the authentic flavours of both the kopitiam and the cha chaan teng.

With a satisfied tummy — and butterflies all but disappeared — I toss a final question to the Demon Chef about his switch from engineering to cooking. His expression earnest, he replies: “It’s not always easy to follow your dreams. You have to be strategic and smart to create a path that lets you do what you want to do. There’s no secret trick but a lot of sacrifice, hard work, strong willpower and a good heart. And I never regret moving forward. The only time I look back is for inspiration.”

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