UP in the highlands, time moves differently. The whispering trees and cool air, alive with the sweet sounds of birdsong, seem to follow you wherever you wander. At night, the skies are clear, revealing countless stars that hang like brilliant orbs in the darkness. The winding roads guide you to a familiar place, nestled like a forgotten gem on the eastern slopes of the Titiwangsa range.
The sense of familiarity feels almost surreal, yet that's the magic of Fraser's Hill. Whether you're visiting for the first time or returning, captivated by its understated charm, this hillside retreat calls to you and welcomes you like an old friend.
The iconic clock tower, standing proudly at the heart of the tiny town, keeps time as it always has, but you hardly notice the minutes slipping by. As I said, time moves differently here.
Some of my fondest memories live here, in this town where the colonial era still lingers in the air, and little has changed over the years. History feels tangible, yet nature has quietly reclaimed the space, casting it into a green-woven bubble where memories seem forever frozen in time.
At Bishop's Trail, I still recall my terrified shrieks echoing through the forest (and scaring off the wildlife!) when I discovered leeches clinging to my leg. Yet, in the same place, I was equally mesmerised by the vibrant birds flitting among the lush trees as I walked along Telekom's Loop (Jalan Girdle), clutching my binoculars and bird guide, completely absorbed in nature's splendour.
For a city girl like me, nature at Fraser's Hill didn't seem so daunting. You didn't have to tackle challenging treks to spot beautiful birds — just walk along the road and be patient. Of course, for those seeking more adventure, there are seven main nature trails to explore.
There's something oddly familiar about this place, a sense of nostalgia that feels almost out of place. Despite its quaint charm and the subtle mustiness that often accompanies age-old settings, Fraser's Hill manages to evoke a feeling of home, as though it has been waiting just for you.
For 48-year-old Jamie Solomon, returning to this holiday haven has become a cherished ritual. After making a total of 30 trips over the past decade, she has crafted a tribute to Fraser's Hill titled When Our Lives Intersect: Celebrating 10 years in Fraser's Hill.
"This book is a love story," writes Jamie in her prologue. "It unfolds my narrative — a chapter in my life story, woven with adventures and explorations in Fraser's Hill, enriched by discoveries made in the Hill. It's an ode to the magical Hill that I've fallen in love with."
The 328-page book contains a collection of those cherished memories, along with photos and beautiful artwork created by Jamie herself. It serves as a rich compilation of journal entries, poetry and art that captures the essence of her experiences and reflections over a decade of visits to Fraser's Hill. Each page weaves together personal anecdotes and creative expressions, offering a vivid and heartfelt tribute to this beloved retreat.
INTERESTING HISTORY
Of all Malaysia's hill stations, Fraser's Hill (Bukit Fraser) or "the Hill" retains the most authentic colonial charm. Perched at a cool 1,524 metres above sea level and spread across seven densely forested hills, it's not the easiest place to reach without your own transport. This remoteness is a key reason why the Hill remains quiet and relatively undeveloped, drawing only a fraction of the crowds that flock to Genting or Cameron Highlands.
The area was named after Louis James Fraser, a tin-ore trader and mule-train operator who occasionally resided here in the 1880s. Rumour has it that Fraser operated gambling and opium dens, but by 1910, both he and his illicit ventures mysteriously vanished.
It wasn't until Anglican Bishop C.J. Ferguson-Davie of Singapore, who came searching for Fraser in 1917, that Fraser's Hill was rediscovered. While the bishop and his colleague failed to find any trace of the enigmatic Fraser, they saw the potential of this misty highland as a hill station, a recommendation the British government eagerly embraced.
Bishop Ferguson-Davie himself was granted a piece of land where he built a charming cottage, aptly named "The Retreat". From this base, he opened a trail leading to neighbouring bungalows, Muar and Cicely, which would later become the famed Bishop's Trail that visitors explore today. The mystery of Louis James Fraser may have faded into legend, but his name lives on, intertwined with this tranquil haven nestled in the highlands.
Though there's little to do here besides enjoying the cool air, taking forest strolls, or indulging in birdwatching, Fraser's Hill is perfect for a tranquil getaway. For those with a car or who can charter a taxi, it's even possible to explore this serene retreat as a (long) day trip from Kuala Lumpur.
MEMORIES OF FRASER'S HILL
The gamine woman with an easy smile tells me that she'd just returned from the Hill over the weekend. "I met Durai there!" she recounts with a cheerful laugh. Ah yes, K.S. Durai is a prominent figure in Malaysia's birdwatching community.
Known as the Birdman of Fraser's Hill, the 66-year-old is a larger-than-life character whose reputation is as expansive as the hills he loves. "He's amazing," she enthuses again.
We bond over shared memories and familiar faces in this charming mountain resort. Located just 65 kilometres north of Kuala Lumpur, Fraser's Hill is intimate enough for us to have common experiences and recognise the same people.
"I vaguely recall my first trip there at the age of 18," she confides, adding: "Honestly, I don't remember much from that time except for the shooting stars and how the night sky was absolutely filled with stars. That's all that stands out in my memory."
Years later, she'd return to Fraser's Hill, this time with her husband and children in tow. This visit marked the start of a decade-long relationship with a place that would come to hold a special place in her heart.
Each trip deepened her connection, turning fleeting memories into a lasting bond with the serene mountain retreat. As the years passed, the Hill became more than just a destination; it became a cherished part of her family's shared experiences and a backdrop to many of their most treasured moments.
The narrative in this book begins in 2014, the year when her youngest son joined their family of five, making them a family of six. It was also the year that marked the beginning of their annual pilgrimage to Fraser's Hill, as remembered by the mother of four. The book is divided into two primary sections: Part 1, which spans from 2014 to 2018, and Part 2, covering the period from 2019 to 2023.
Her love affair with Fraser's Hill developed gradually, almost imperceptibly. In the early years of her visits, the experience felt anything but definitive. "During the first five years, I wrote that not much was happening. But perhaps it was all just an undercurrent, a subtle stirring," says Jamie.
"I was a mother first," she continues, adding: "With four young children, our trips to the Hill often felt more like labour than leisure. Packing for each journey was a logistical challenge, given the constant demands of our little ones. Our car was inevitably crammed with a crib, stroller, diapers, baby food and a mountain of children's toys, turning each trip into a major undertaking."
But as her children grew older, the dynamics gradually changed. "I began to find time to take walks on my own," she shares. "It was also in 2019 that I first found the chance to sit under a tree on a bench and start drawing. It felt like a new chapter, where I could finally immerse myself in the beauty of the Hill and capture it in my art."
LOVE FOR NATURE
"I've always loved nature," she remarks, sharing that she spent her formative years in Taiping, a once-thriving colonial town with a rich history in tin mining. Even today, Taiping is known for its lush landscapes and picturesque hills.
Jamie's upbringing was deeply intertwined with the natural world. "I was fortunate to grow up so close to nature," she says, adding: "Regular visits to the Taiping Lake Gardens were a significant part of my childhood."
She continues: "As far back as I can remember, Maxwell's Hill has also been a part of my life story, filled with cherished memories of family outings, youth camps, and Girl Guide adventures."
One of her fondest memories dates back to when she was 7, watching a bird. "I think it was probably a myna or a sparrow," she recalls. "I asked my father what kind of bird it was, and he was able to name it for me. As a child, I was so impressed that he knew the bird's name!"
Years later, she and her family were introduced to birdwatching by a passionate birder named Carrol Lawrence. "She took us to several parks and pointed out all these incredible birds. I remember thinking, wow… wait a minute… My kids weren't interested, but I was completely captivated!"
Eventually, Jamie bought herself a pair of binoculars. "Almost every time I went out for a walk in Fraser's Hill, I'd bring along a small notebook and jot down the names of all the birds I spotted!"
PASSION IN ART
Her newfound passion for birds and her deep, abiding love for nature are vividly etched throughout the pages of her book. Jamie's delicate sketches and watercolour paintings of various corners of Fraser's Hill capture the essence of the landscape with a simple yet profound beauty.
Before their year-end trip to the Hills in 2019, Jamie purchased a journal with the intention of documenting their travels in a traditional, old-fashioned way — a scrapbook-style travel journal.
Upon arriving, she took on the task of filling the blank pages. Though the empty pages seemed intimidating at first, they soon became an open canvas for whatever sparked inspiration. Embracing the challenge, she began to fill the journal with drawings.
With a degree in accounting and a Master's in economics, she admits it almost felt surreal to uncover such a creative passion. "I was always such a left-brained person," she says, adding: "But I had one guiding belief in art: if you can see it, you can draw it. That philosophy resonated deeply with me."
As Jamie observed the world around her, she brought it back to life with delicate strokes of watercolours. Trees, birds, and the serene landscapes of the Hill blossomed under her brush.
"I started journalling and capturing our family experiences during our many trips to the Hill," she shares, adding: "I've gathered so many memories that it made me realise, this is our story. This is our life from the last decade. I needed to preserve it as a keepsake for us, something tangible to remember."
Using only minimal strokes, she manages to convey the fleeting shifts in nature — the play of light through the trees, the movement of birds, and the ever-changing skies — imbuing each piece with an emotional depth that draws you in.
As you turn the pages, you're greeted by familiar sights of Fraser's Hill, all seen through Jamie's attentive and artistic eyes. Each image is paired with diary-like entries and poetry, where she reflects on her family's time spent in this serene enclave. The book feels like an intimate glimpse into a decade-long journey, not just of returning to a beloved place, but of evolving as a person whose heart is entwined with the rhythms of nature.
"This is my tribute to the Hill," she says softly, adding: "I'm not a conservationist or someone deeply involved with the environment, but I hope this book will ignite a spark in others to visit Fraser's Hill. My hope is that when people see my photos, journal entries, and artwork, they'll feel drawn to experience the Hill for themselves."
The mist-covered parks, whispering trees, clear skies, and birdsong are all woven into this diary of sorts. Here in Fraser's Hill, it's easy to let this little town grow on you while allowing the crunch of leaves underfoot slow your pace.
Like Jamie, you might find yourself returning, again and again, until you become part of the land, its memories slowly becoming part of you. And this ancient land, in turn, remembers it all.
For information about Jamie Solomon's book, When Our Lives Intersect: Celebrating 10 years in Fraser's Hill, visit her Instagram at @natureandartwithjamie.
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