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The baung of Gaung: Renowned 'ikan baung tempoyak' of Kampung Gaung draws 'schools' of visitors

KUALA BERANG: A trip to Kuala Berang, a small town in the district of Hulu Terengganu, is not complete without visiting nearby Kampung Gaung and savouring its famed culinary speciality - ikan baung (a type of catfish) cooked in tempoyak (fermented durian) gravy.

It is this delicacy which has drawn travellers and foodies from near and far to this otherwise sleepy town.

While the riverine species is commonly found in the countryside, the ikan baung served here is sourced from an aqua-culture farm in Sungai Como near Tasik Kenyir, and the meat is especially soft and tender.

Most of the fish are harvested when they weigh between one to 1.2kg, as any weight outside this range will only compromise the tenderness of the flesh.

Nurusuhada Mohd Nor, 27, operates one of the area’s foodstalls, which is considered a pioneer in the beloved dish. A pro at its preparation, Nurusuhada inherited her recipe from her mother, Rokiah Ibrahim, 47.

"We prepare about 15 ikan baung daily. During school holidays, the number could be double that,” she said.

Diners have the choice of the head, tail, or body of the fish, although it is the head which is the most highly sought-after (and more pricey).

Nurusuhada, who is assisted by her four siblings, said the dish is usually served with an assortment of ulam as well as budu (fermented fish juice).

“Sometimes, we will fry the fish if there are special requests," she said.

When it comes to the ‘ikan baung tempoyak’ of Kuala Berang, the gastronomic experience is always ‘special’.

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