KUALA LUMPUR: MILLIONS of Malaysians driving the more than RM2 billion a year, small-medium scale cosmetics industry are unknowingly putting themselves at huge risk with beauty products that can kill.
These products, many whose origins are suspect — brought in from China, Thailand and the Philippines, plus many more manufactured locally — are packed with harmful substances to meet the growing demand for cosmetics and skincare products, which promise to turn legions of fans into flawless beauties — or at least make them a couple of shades lighter.
The New Straits Times Special Probes team had, over the past several months, studied the demand and trends in this fast-growing but poorly-regulated industry to unearth the many loopholes that allowed manufacturers and retailers to put their customers’ health at great risk — with practically no legal consequences.
Experts concerned over the existential threat to public health posed by these cosmetics want the authorities to revisit the “Asean harmonising system”, implemented through the Asean Cosmetic Directive (ACD) in 2008, which technically regulates the industry based on the “honesty” of cosmetics sellers.
They are just required to declare their product ingredients through a “notification process” before being allowed into the market. No lab tests or registration are required.
Ironically, the spirit of the ACD lists its No. 1 objective as “To enhance cooperation amongst member countries in ensuring the safety, quality and claimed benefits of all cosmetic products marketed in Asean”.
The Special Probes Team has come across a litany of complications suffered by users of some popular brands, which prompted this investigation.
The team was spoilt for choice when it began sourcing for these cosmetics. We bought some samples from kiosks operating in renowned shopping malls, pasar malam, bazaars and businesses running on social media platforms.
Cosmetics and skincare products across a broad spectrum of counterfeit and home-grown brands sourced from sellers were sent to science laboratories run by reputable universities, as well as private facilities, to help identify hazardous compounds contained within.
The results were shocking. The products sent in, many being the current flavour among users, were found to contain harmful substances, including hydroquinone and mercury — a neurotoxin that these manufacturers use as a skin-whitening agent.
The products also contained huge amounts of other dangerous substances, like cadmium (to erase pigmentation), chromium (as a colourant), lead (for lasting shiny effect) and arsenic (to improve complexion) — all of which have been banned in cosmetics regulated under the ACD.
For the record, none of the products that we sampled, which was found to contain these poisons, have been banned by the Health Ministry or picked up by its “post-market surveillance” mechanism.
The demand for these items is apparent, especially at kiosks and stands, with consumers flocking and jostling for position, grabbing the products with little or no convincing by those manning the stalls.
Most of the products, including face mask, whitening night cream, whitening moisturiser and sunblock, lipstick, mascara, eye shadow, compact powder and foundation, only listed safe and permissible ingredients on their labels.
The team also scoured a number of pages on social media selling cosmetic products. One of the beauty injection products that our laboratory analysis confirmed had heavy metals was sourced online.
Promising its users will have white, “pinkish” soft smooth skin, the “imported” product, which retailed at RM210, also come with a list of doctors and clinics that are willing to help inject the substance directly into the users’ bloodstream.
Health and medical experts the team spoke to warned that these cheap cosmetics, some believed to be counterfeit products that supposedly offer miraculous results almost overnight, can contribute to a spike in chronic illnesses, including cancer, acute kidney failure or even death within a few years of usage.
Unhappy users who experience complications, including severe swelling, redness and thinning of the skin from using these products, have gone on social media to register their frustration.
Some also suffer from Ochronosis — a condition which leaves a permanent blue hue on their faces.
However, these complaints will often be quickly erased by the website administrators.
Unsuspecting users also face the risk of dermatitis, severe kidney damage, and in many cases, anxiety, depression, psychosis and peripheral neuropathy.