Motivated by her passion to preserve culture, Vrenda Joaan Deftenneay Taji Paul has always harboured a dream to walk on the Unduk Ngadau Kaamatan pageant stage with a title to her name.
It was a dream come true for the 21-year-old when she was crowned Unduk Ngadau Borderless for Beluran district recently.
With the annual Kaamatan festival going online this year due to the Covid-19 pandemic, Vrenda has vowed to promote the uniqueness of the Dusun Labuk culture, especially its traditional costume, Baju Labuk, on a virtual stage.
The Dusun (or Kadazan) Labuk community is found largely in the districts of Beluran and Telupid in Sabah.
Dusun Labuk and Baju Labuk got their names from Sungai Labuk, which runs through the two districts and is a lifeline for the people.
Baju Labuk, which originated from Kampung Kuala Sapi, Beluran, is not just a traditional attire, but also a symbol of Dusun Labuk culture, history and tradition.
"The most distinctive feature of Baju Labuk is the floral embroidery in pink, green, blue and yellow to depict the diversity and unity of the Dusun Labuk.
"The flower motif, called gosing, is embroidered by hand against a black background," she said, explaining that gosing, or Melastoma malabathricum, is a flower popular in Dusun Labuk culture for its myriad uses and abundant in the forests of Beluran and Telupid.
For example, it can be used to clean and prepare tajau, the jar to store kinomol, a traditional beverage made of fermented cassava, as the plant is believed to be able to enhance the flavour of the alcoholic drink.
Baju Labuk is an outfit that is simple yet elegant and modest in design.
"The tight-fitting, long-sleeved blouse and sarong follow the style of daily wear for women in Labuk in the olden days called Baju Impit, which is traditionally black," she told the New Straits Times.
The cutting of Baju Impit is similar to the kebaya. The embroidery design, including the choice of colours, has its own meaning.
For instance, the curved V shape embroidery from the waist up to the shoulder on the central opening of the blouse dress symbolises kopiiso ginavo, which means perfect agreement and true harmony for the Dusun Labuk people over opinions, signifying bridges to a successful community.
To the Dusun Labuk, blue and green are both called otomou.
"The colour symbolises the people in Labuk who share cultural similarities, especially language and traditional music, despite coming from different sub-ethnic groups," she said, giving credit to researchers for providing well-rounded documentation on the authenticity of Baju Labuk as a reference for the younger generation to ensure that this priceless heritage would not disappear with time.
Baju Labuk is usually matched with traditional accessories like kambot (money belt made of British silver coins), korunsang (multiple coins brooch), simbong (earings), kalung (necklace) and golong (bangles).
Vrenda said possessing accessories was also an indication of one's economic status because they are made of gold, silver or bronze, making them valuable items and the preferred choice for wedding gifts.
However, she said, the costume and accessories should not compete with each other and should not overshadow the beauty of the magnificent embroidery.
"I hope to use this opportunity to showcase Baju Labuk to a global audience. I believe the Unduk Ngadau empowers women, giving us confidence and pride to keep our culture alive," said Vrenda, who is vying for the state-level Unduk Ngadau title.
Colin Kar, coordinator for the Beluran Unduk Ngadau Kaamatan, said one of the best ways to preserve traditional costumes was through the Unduk Ngadau pageant.
"We are not denying fashion evolution, but we must preserve the authenticity of our traditional costumes because Baju Labuk represents our identity as Labuk people," he said, encouraging everyone to wear Baju Labuk with respect and understanding of the Dusun Labuk culture.
Last year's Kaamatan was scrapped due to the rise in the number of Covid-19 cases across the nation. It is back this year with the theme Borderless Kaamatan for Reconciliation and Peace.
Unduk Ngadau is one of the highlights of Kaamatan, which celebrates Huminodun, a maiden who was sacrificed by her father, Kinoingan, to save the people from famine and to ensure a bountiful harvest.