Ewe Paik Leong takes a drive to the third largest town in Perak and visits its various attractions
IN the distance, several fishing boats bob on the surface of Sungai Perak, mangroves line the mudflats and kingfishers soar in the sky. I am standing on the banks of the River Front in Teluk Intan, Perak.
More than just a park with swings and see-saws, this spot also houses the office of the Malay Fishing Association of Lower Perak. Moored at the jetty are fishing boats belonging to the association.
I saunter to D-Tepian Sungei Restaurant, a thatch-roofed structure, but it only opens at 4pm. Across the road, facing the restaurant is the back of the former Court House, built in 1880 in the Neo-Classical style. Today, it has been converted into a military facility.
From the Water Front, Ipass the Memorial Rock at Jalan Mahkamah, which is a huge boulder sitting on a pedestal. It is dedicated to the fallen heroes of World War I and II. The inscription on the pedestal reads: ‘At the going down of the sun and in the morning, we will remember them.’ My jaw drops when my eyes lay on the old police station located near the end of the road. Its front compound is overgrown with grass and even the roof of its front porch is covered with unkempt foliage. Shouldn’t this building be preserved as a historical attraction?
Making a loop, I end up on the other side of Jalan Mahkamah and turn to Jalan Sekolah. Proceeding down the road, I see the Masjid Daerah Sultan Idris II on my right. Boasting a single golden dome and a single minaret, it has a flat roof and a front porch. The rooflines of the main building and porch feature parapets. I am pleasantly surprised that St.Luke’s Church, built in 1912, is located some 100 metres from the mosque, while Kuil Sri Vinayagar and Shri Gurdwara Sahibare further ahead eastward. Thus, Jalan Sekolah deserves the moniker ‘Teluk Intan’s Street of Religious Harmony’.
The town’s most famous landmark, the Leaning Clock Tower, stands at Jalan Bandar. A plaque beside its staircase entrance explains its history: ‘Built in 1885 by contractor Leong Choon Chong. Originally housed the water tank that supplied water to the town and reserve during drought and fire. It was also used to report time and served as a beacon to guide ships to Teluk Anson Port.’
Inside, after passing a souvenir stall and a square wishing well with coins at the bottom, I climb up the circular staircase and down again. There’s nothing to see inside except for several old black-and-white photographs and a compound pulley system.
LUNCH TIME
It’s time for lunch. On my must eat list are chee cheong fun, Abdullah Mastan Ghany Mee Rebus and nasi kandar at M. Ghulam Rasul. Though Liew Kee at Jalan Hill, Off Jalan Pasir Berdamar, is famous for its chee cheong fun, it only opens at 5.30pm.
So, I head for Jalan Maharani Hawker Centre instead to search for this fare. I’m too late as the stalls lining the road have already closed. Never mind, I drive to Glutton Square where parking is a breeze.
Opposite the Square is Masjid India’s religious school with an eye-catching archway. I snag a table near a stall selling chee cheong fun. Since they’re closing up, my chee cheong fun is served in a styrofoam box.
The fillings comprising turnips, shrimps and shallots enter my mouth roaring with umami and sweet smokiness. Their firm texture contrasts pleasantly with the soft, silky steamed rice noodles enveloping them.
Fifteen minutes later, I’m sitting in Abdullah Mastan Ghany Mee Rebus, which is located opposite The Store at Jalan Ah Cheong. My mee rebus contains all the standard ingredients. The noodles are firm, and the gravy thrills and comforts at the same time.
The corn-starch-thickened mixture brimming with the earthy notes of potato hugs my tongue tenderly yet there are citrusy hits from galangal, and bean sprouts deliver fresh lively notes. I finish off with ais kacang. Its ingredients are in the right proportions, giving a balanced contrast of sweetness and textures.
Earlier this morning, my first stop was the East Sea Dragon King Temple at Jalan Maharajalela. Facing the Perak River, this temple is dedicated to the dragon deity, depicted as a dragon with a human body. The pillars and roofs of the temple are embellished with dragon carvings. Nearby are two floating restaurants, offering Chinese and Western fare separately.
My next stop was Kimkraft Marine, a builder of boats, located a short distance from Anson Bay Medical Centre. Two wooden boats areunder construction. They represent thousands of chisel cuts and mallet knocks as everything is made by hand. There are stacks of chengal wood nearby, used as materials for the boats.
SECOND LEG
Now, I am set for the second part of the tour. At Jalan Bandar stands Nagarathaar Sri Thendayuthapani Temple, built in 1899 by the Chettiar community. There is no gopuram at its gate but two stone elephants acting as guardians and an archway packed with a row of colorful figurines. A side gate is embellished with two giant replicas of the vel (spear), which is associated with Lord Murugan.
Next stop is the Madrasah Al-Ihsaniah, just behind Public Bank at Jalan Pasar. A two-storey structure, it was built in 1901, and is painted green and yellow. Under its side porch is a kolah ( a square water tank made of cement).
Opposite the madrasah stands the Hock Soon Temple, which was constructed by the Hokkien community in 1883. Its side wall is covered with murals and a giant statue of the pot-bellied Laughing Buddha dominates the side compound. Further east at Jalan Sekolah is St. Anthony’s Church, opposite St. Anthony’s School. It was built in 1910 by Father Donat Perissoid, and showcases a porch tower painted with a mural with religious significance.
Finally, it’s time for some good buys before my good-bye. Jin Joo Heong Confectionary and Kedai Biskut GL, located next to each other at Jalan Mak Intan are noted for their biscuits.
I park my car at the roadside outside the stores and a nearby sign at a slip-road attracts my attention: ‘Makam Sultan Muhammad Shah’. I saunter down the narrow slip-road and come to the grave of the 22nd sultan of Perak. It is sheltered by a white pavilion crowned with a tiled roof. My jaw drops a second time! Clothes are being hung to dry on the criss-cross wire perimeter fence of the grave! This is an act of disrespect.
At Jin Joo Heong Confectionary, I load packets of tambun biscuits, tau sar biscuits and heong peah into my shopping basket, and they eventually end in my car boot.
ONE FOR THE ROAD
I head towards M. Ghulam Rasul Restaurant at the outskirt for its nasi kandar. The airy place is massive and a lengthy menu hangs from one wall showing the prices of the food items.
They include ayam kicap, ayam merah, ayam kurma, daging rendang, daging cincang, kari ayam, telur dadar, telur mata, ayam puyuh, pedegil, pajeri nenas, and a list of fruit juices, soft drinks and tongkat ali.
A variety of mee goreng, tosai, naan and roti canai complete the picture. With tongs, I place a fried chicken onto my plate and add pajeri nenas and turmeric cabbage before paying at the counter. The well-marinated chicken exhibits the classic crispy-outside moist-inside texture, and there are hints of funk from curry powder.
Squishy and mushy, the pineapple pieces deliver eye widening bursts of acid. The cabbage pieces totter on the edge of crunchy blandness on first bite but turmeric brings a zingy wallop to them.