In recognition of Sarawak Day on July 22, David Bowden recalls many memorable journeys travelling in the wilds of Sarawak
From a young age, mystical Borneo has fascinated me and numerous other adventurers who have over the years documented wondrous tales of intrigue and discovery.
These stories continue to amaze a new generation of travellers wishing to venture into the wilds of the world's third largest island (only Greenland and New Guinea are bigger).
At 748,168 sq km, Borneo is home to Brunei, Indonesian Kalimantan and Sarawak and Sabah. My travels have taken me to many parts of Borneo but the more I travel here, the more I realise just how big it is and just how much of it I don't know.
I'm a great believer that people travel to admire different natural and cultural elements of foreign lands, such as the variety that Sarawak offers.
Apart from Kuching and Miri, much of the state is undeveloped although conversion of forests to agriculture has made an impact.
Large expanses of national parks have been established and it's these parts that especially appeal to me. These include remote parks like Batang Ai National Park (which adjoins national parks in Kalimantan) to accessible reserves like Semenggoh.
The protection that national parks offer is not only beneficial to conservation, but it also provides the cornerstone for a strong and sustainable tourism industry for many generations to come.
BAKO NATIONAL PARK
Bako National Park is located along the coastline fronting the South China Sea about one hour's drive and boat journey from Kuching. Compared with most national parks in Sarawak, Bako is small at just 2,742ha.
However, the park has fascinated naturalists and botanists because of its ecological diversity.
Botanists note that almost all major plant communities that occur on Borneo are found here. These include heath, mangrove, peat swamp and mixed dipterocarp forests. Sandstone cliffs and rocky outcrops guard the beach at Teluk Assam where park headquarters are located.
I travelled to Bako as I wanted to see the Proboscis Monkey, which thrives among mangroves located along the river mouths near Telok Paku, Telok Delima and Ulu Assam. Bako is one of the few places in the world that this type of monkey can be seen and I wasn't disappointed as my boat could be manoeuvred very close to a troop of them.
Once in the park, I had a choice of 16 well-signposted trails to walk. The beach is suitable for swimming and there is accommodation and a canteen for visitors who want to stay overnight. Wildlife is easy to locate with monkeys, wild boar and numerous bird species while dolphins are commonly sighted in the waters off the park.
BATANG AI NATIONAL PARK
Headhunting is a thing of the past in Sarawak but older villagers are happy to regale chilling tales of a bygone era. Sarawak's tribal customs have been nurtured over generations by those living in remote parts, including near Batang Ai National Park that extends over 27,000ha.
The only way to reach the remotest communities is by longboat along jungle-shrouded rivers. Batang Ai, in one of the remotest parts of Sarawak, is centred on a constructed lake with water now covering what was once rainforest.
There are several accommodation options here with some visitors choosing the Aiman Batang Ai Resort while more intrepid travellers stay in Iban longhouses further upstream. Longhouses that accommodate tourists have been slightly modified to cater to the needs of global travellers.
In the heat of the day, most activities are suspended while the villagers take shelter in the confines of the cooler interior. Some venture outside in the afternoon to tend to their crops while elders relax, weave and repair tools and agricultural equipment.
Along the expansive communal verandah, women weave the intricate pua kumbu cotton cloth that they then offer for sale to visitors. Iban hospitality is best experienced at mealtime when families dine in their individual kitchens.
GUNUNG MULU NATIONAL PARK
The list of superlatives is as big as the caves in this Unesco World Heritage Site. While the park protects numerous caves, there are four main ones — Deer, Lang, Clearwater and Wind. Deer Cave is the world's largest passage and Sarawak Chamber is the largest chamber.
At dusk, millions of bats start streaming from these caves to forage in the surrounding forests. This is one of nature's most astonishing sights; it's as if squadrons of bats are pulled out on a long piece of string for over two hours.
Interestingly, while it's the caves that appeal to tourists, the park is named after Gunung Mulu (2,376m). The serrated limestone peaks of adjoining Gunung Api, which is famously called "The Pinnacles", are just some of the challenges that mountain climbers encounter.
Covering an area of 550 sq km, this park is one of Sarawak's largest. In addition to the caves, its forests, rivers and remote communities warrant a stay of at least three days.
Adventure, yes, but it doesn't involve hardship as Mulu Marriott Resort, located just outside the park, provides luxurious facilities, including deluxe accommodation, spa, restaurant, shop and pool. Park facilities are comprehensive with accommodation, gift shop, restaurant and interpretation displays.
LAMBIR HILLS NATIONAL PARK
Lambir Hills National Park of 70 sq km is located south of Miri and has several well-defined trails and waterfalls to explore. Scientists are fascinated with its coastal forest, considered to be one of Sarawak's most valuable because of its tree diversity. This diversity is only exceeded by one other place on Earth — Parque Nacional Yasuni in Amazonian Ecuador.
In a 52ha patch of Lambir Hills' rainforest, botanists have identified 470,000 total tree numbers representing 1,200 plant species (this is equivalent to the area covered by the Vatican, the world's smallest country). Perhaps what's even more fascinating is that some species haven't been identified and who knows what cures and potions are to be found here.
This is something to ponder while traversing one of 14 sign-posted trails. The longest is a four-hour trek to Bukit Lambir summit. While tough going, it's rewarded with extensive views.
There are several waterfalls, including the largest, Latak, where it's possible to swim in the cool waters. From Latak Waterfall, the trail heads to Bukit Pantu some 90 minutes away.
Park accommodation is basic but Lambir Hills is ideal for day visitors from Miri. A shop provides beverages, snacks and simple meals.
SEMENGGOH NATURE RESERVE
Orangutan are native to the islands of Borneo and Sumatra and several rehabilitation centres on both make it easy for visitors to observe them. These centres have been established to rehabilitate orphaned primates or those rescued from captivity. They are taught how to survive before being released into the wild. Feeding sessions are the best time to view Orangutan in the reserve's natural surroundings.
Semenggoh, 20km south of Kuching, is one of the more accessible centres on Borneo. While nothing beats the excitement of observing an animal in the wild, the park is sufficiently wild to make it closely approximate the real deal.
While sightings aren't guaranteed, the best times to visit are feeding times (9am to 10am and 3pm to 4pm). There's an interpretation centre, entrance fee and sign-posted trails. This is a great reserve for photographing Orangutan.
TALANG SATANG NATIONAL
PARK AND TANJUNG DATU NATIONAL PARK
These two parks are best visited together and ideally done with a tour operator as a boat is required for access to both remote locations near Sarawak's western maritime border with Indonesia.
My journey to both with a park-approved travel operator commenced in Kuching for the 100km drive to coastal Sematan. Here, we stocked up on supplies as the only facilities in both parks are basic with limited accommodation.
Tanjung Datu appeals for its remoteness, long deserted beaches, some trails and the opportunity to be boated to a lighthouse lookout on the border with Indonesia.
Nearby, life on Satang Besar Island is measured by the speed of turtles. Three islands in this maritime park are a haven for small groups of ecotourists who are keen to move into the slow lane in order to get close to the turtles that visit the island to lay their eggs.
The conservation programme conducted by the parkʼs staff protects the eggs until they hatch and then the hatchlings are released to the sea. Facilities are limited with basic accommodation for just a handful of fortunate ecotourists.
FAST FACTS
Sarawak Tourism Board
TEL 082-423-600
WEBSITE www.sarawaktourism.com
Sarawak National Parks
TEL 082-319-102
WEBSITE www.forestry.sarawak.gov.my