THE tree-lined avenue leading up to Windsor Castle was recently awash with crowds of royal enthusiasts who had gathered from all over the world to get their first view of newlyweds, Prince Henry Charles Albert David or Harry, as he’s better known, and Rachel Meghan Markle as they embarked on their first journey as a married couple in the ceremonial carriage.
The historic date of May 19, 2018 was made extra special when it was announced that Queen Elizabeth II had conferred upon her grandson a Dukedom. Prince Harry and Markle from then on would be addressed as His and Her Royal Highness The Duke and Duchess of Sussex.
Photographs of the lavish nuptial held at St George’s Chapel immediately call to mind Malaya’s own royal wedding, held some 62 years ago between the-then Raja Muda of Kedah, Tunku Abdul Halim and the Negri Sembilan princess, Tunku Bahiyah.
The week-long wedding festivities were held starting from March 9, 1956 at Istana Seri Menanti, the birth place of Tunku Bahiyah, eldest daughter of Tuanku Abdul Rahman ibni Almarhum Tuanku Muhammad and Tunku Kurshiah binti Almarhum Tunku Besar Burhanuddin, the Yang di-Pertuan Besar and the Tunku Ampuan Besar of Negri Sembilan.
To the common people, this was definitely a significant occasion to celebrate, especially when Malaya was about to gain full Independence from the British in just a little more than a year’s time. The list of spectacular events lined up for the entire week helped put at ease a nation still wrapped up in the complexities of political advancements, future status of the nine Malay rulers, racial integration with regards to Malayanisation and incessant demands for wage increases by the labour unions.
A JOYOUS EVENT
The unification of two of the most important royal houses for the first time in their history, and the fact that the bridegroom, eldest son of Kedah monarch Sultan Badlishah ibni Almarhum Sultan Abdul Hamid Halim Shah, was an heir apparent further underlined the nuptial’s importance in terms of national interest.
Students of Malayan history today are indeed fortunate for the famous Straits Times journalist Harry Miller was one of the few members from the media who was invited to cover this joyous event. His eye for detail resulted in interesting and detailed reports about the events that took place in the Negri Sembilan royal town at that time.
The start of the long list of ceremonies was marked by an eight-gun salute which echoed from the green-clad hills girdling Seri Menanti. At that time, according to Miller, Tunku Bahiyah waited within the spacious confines of Istana Besar while her husband prepared himself some half kilometre away in the picturesque Istana Lama, the grand wooden building where the princess’ ancestors lived and reigned.
In her room surrounded by her loyal ladies-in-waiting, Tunku Bahiyah received glad tidings. Her bridegroom had passed the religious ceremony of marriage the previous night with flying colours. Recollecting that particular event which was steeped in royal protocol, customs and local belief, Miller reported that Tunku Abdul Halim sat cross-legged opposite the Mufti in Istana Lama’s prayer room. The Mufti began with a solemn atonement in Arabic before leaning forward to hear the Kedah heir reply ‘in one breath’: ‘I accept in marriage Tunku Bahiyah with a dowry of $1,001.’
An hour earlier, the bridegroom’s appointed representatives had, with the due formality befitting royalty, presented the dowry to Tunku Bahiyah’s parents. Miller noted that in Negri Sembilan, royal dowries were fixed by ancient adat (custom).
Under Muslim law, the presentation of a dowry is a form of contract usually signified by the bestowal of a gift. Tunku Bahiyah’s dowry came, among other things, in the form of Malayan 10 dollar notes. The scores of red legal tender were placed on silver trays, each meticulously fashioned into the shape of birds, butterflies and flowers.
These same motifs were followed in the presentation of silver receptacles containing the customary sireh leaves, nutmeg and lime. These traditional gifts were Kedah’s gesture of kinship through marriage.
Two days after the religious ceremony and in accordance with Malay marriage traditions, the royal bridal couple were dressed in their best and sat solemnly before their family members, rulers and high ranking officials on a richly-decorated throne in the balairong seri (audience hall). Around them were Kedah and Negri Sembilan regalia bearers while two maidens with fans stood nearby to keep the newlyweds cool.
RESPLENDENT TRADITION
During this bersanding ceremony, which is the formal public demonstration and acceptance in a Malay marriage, the British High Commissioner Sir Donald Charles MacGillivray and invited Sultans joined the other well-wishers in taking turns to anoint the couple with scented water and rice.
Just like the worldwide preoccupation with Markel’s Givenchy wedding gown, Miller was equally fascinated with Tunku Bahiyah’s gorgeous strawberry and gold-embroidered costume. He described it in great lengths, enthusing about the countless diamonds that sparkled on her head, neck and wrists.
Meanwhile, Tunku Abdul Halim wore a gold leaf-wrought-and-diamond-inlaid head dress which weighed nearly three kilogrammes. The groom also wore gold leaf-shaped armlets with the Kedah royal crest embossed on each.
Around his neck dropped three heavy gold necklaces while his waist was decorated with a wide belt fitted with a large gold buckle. An ancient gold-sheathed Kedah keris with shimmering diamonds and rubies on the hilt completed the prince’s costume.
The royal wedding ceremony ended the next day on a delightful note of informal abandon. The bridal pair had, for the third morning in a row, been drawn on the takhta renchana (ceremonial carriage), completely yellow in paint and decora¬tion, to the pancha persada, a seven tiered pyramidal pavilion for the final purification ceremony.
Miller noted that this symbolic act, which involved the couple dipping their fingers in a mixture of scented holy oil and water, actually descended from the ancient days when purification was literally a com¬plete bath in the sacred concoction.
As the Negri Sembilan adat ordained entertainment after the end of each puri¬fication exercise, bersilat (traditional Malay art of self-defence) demonstrations were held on the first and second mornings.
On the penultimate third morning, the princes and princesses of the royal household were allowed to set aside protocol and indulge in a free-for-all water battle. They used receptacles of every description to douse each other with scented coloured water.
The gathering crowd watched in amusement as the rivalling factions made for the water in the dainty fountain in front of the pancha persada. The pool of blue-coloured water served as an ammunition dump for them to reload old bottles, cigarette tins, spray guns, water pistols and even well-worn hats before heading off to look for their next victim!
Even the royal couple wasn’t spared. Gallons of water were flung in their direction while on the way to the carriage for the return procession. Luckily, the royal umbrella bearers were nimble enough to save the newlyweds from severe splashing. It was indeed the perfect ending to, what was considered at that time, the biggest royal wedding ceremony in post-war Malaya.
A SUMPTUOUS AFFAIR
I’d always thought that the Negri Sembilan ceremonies described by Miller marked the end of this historic wedding until a recent discovery of a booklet published to welcome home the royal couple as well as celebrate their marriage in Kedah’s capital proved otherwise.
Acquired together with a large stack of documents, photographs and receipts, this special commemorative publication was given to a well-known Alor Star Chinese community leader who went by the name of Loh Cheng Hoe. The royal Kedah household, at that time, must have taken great effort in the booklet’s preparation for each invitee’s name was individually printed in green letters at the top of the booklet cover.
Inside the booklet is a cream-coloured invitation card written entirely in Jawi script. The royal Kedah crest is given pride of place in the centre, near the top margin. On the right hand side are a slew of Chinese characters, written neatly in blue ink. I suspect that Loh couldn’t read Jawi and must have asked someone to translate the document for him.
With the advent of better printing techniques, Prince Harry and Markel’s invitations were certainly more sophisticated in comparison. Made by Barnard Westwood and following years of royal tradition, the cards were gilded around the edge and printed in gold and black. Each piece had been individually burnished to bring out the shine.
Inside the ageing booklet, I discover a piece of cyclostyled paper showing the guest seating arrangements during the State Banquet held on March 21, 1956 at Alor Star’s iconic Balai Besar. An unmistakable red crayon mark indicates Loh’s place among the 200 guests at seat No. 33 on Table B. Also inside is the list of dishes that Loh and the other invitees enjoyed dur¬ing the dinner. These included grapefruit cocktail, consomme soup, baked Langkawi crab and roast stuffed Kedah turkey served with roast potatoes, creamed cauliflower and green peas.
These sumptuous Kedah delicacies were definitely comparable to those served at the lunchtime reception hosted by Queen Elizabeth II for the newly-married Duke and Duchess of Sussex. The 600 guests at St George’s Hall feasted on Scottish langoustines, grilled asparagus and rhubarb crumble tartlets. The wedding cake included elderflower syrup, made at the Queen’s residence in Sandringham from the estate’s own trees, with an Amalfi lemon curd filling and elderflower buttercream.
While Sir Elton John performed at the lunchtime reception in recognition of the close connection he has with Prince Harry and his family, the dinner guests at Kedah’s Balai Besar were entertained by the band from the Royal Malay Regiment.
Judging by the list provided on the booklet’s back cover, the band played a total of 12 scores during that memorable evening. Among the tunes that filled the air around the Kedah Ceremonial Hall were Johann Strauss’ Czech Polka, Vivian Ellis’ Bless The Bride and Franz Von Blon’s Sizilietta.
Tunku Abdul Halim ascended the Kedah throne just two years later, following the sudden demise of his father, Sultan Badlishah, on July 13, 1958. Together with his consort, Sultanah Bahiyah, Sultan Abdul Halim ruled the state wisely and justly for many years. During his 59-year-rule, the monarch made history by becoming the only Malay Sultan to become Malaysia’s supreme ruler twice. His two five-year terms were from 1970 to 1975 and 2011 to 2016.
Sultanah Bahiyah passed away on Aug 26, 2003 while Sultan Abdul Halim died on Sept 11, 2017. His brother, Sultan Sallehuddin ibni Almarhum Sultan Badlishah, is the current ruling monarch of Kedah.