Langkawi boasts wild and adventurous activities for the whole family, writes Nooraini Mydin
I HAVE to stifle a giggle as the Sea Osprey’s captain, Izham Marzuki helps me put on the harness, the way you dress up a toddler — I am being prepared for my first parasail. Next, we take off and thanks to Izham and Shukeri Daud, even my parasail partner Tunku Sheri loses some of her jitters as we soar to 245m and the boat shrinks to a dot on the sea.
Parasailing is not without risks so the choice of operator is very important. Naam Cruise has an unblemished record and their equipment and the well-trained crew give me confidence. Since 2011, Naam Cruise has added another dimension to Langkawi’s repertoire — sea sports. It isn’t hard to choose them for my maiden flight as a casual glance on Trip Advisor reveals glowing reviews.
Seeing Langkawi from a height has whet my appetite for more and I head for the cable car up Gunung Matchinchang. At 650m above sea level, covering a distance of 1700 metres, it is purported to be the steepest in the world. You have panoramic views of the island and beyond from the sky bridge, which, at 125m long is among the world’s longest curved suspension bridge. Although it is closed for repairs the bridge is a sight to behold.
To complement my nature holiday, I have chosen two hotels — The Datai, within the Matchinchang Geoforest Park, and Tanjung Rhu Resort within the Kilim Karst Forest Geopark. And I am not disappointed.
THE DATAI
I was warned before going to The Datai that “it’s in the jungle, in the middle of nowhere and there are no shops.” Perfect for a nature lover.
Arriving at my villa in the early evening I am serenaded by a cacophony of sounds — the ringing cicadas, chirping crickets and a gushing stream, sounding like raindrops on leaves.
In the morning I am able to really take in the beauty of the hotel grounds. The foyer, with its waterlily pond gives me endless pleasure, as I take pictures of the colourful tree frogs basking on the lilipads. Looking out from the lobby lounge I get the feeling of encountering a lost civilisation, only the swimming pool gives the game away.
Exploring the grounds from the safety of a boardwalk, I am able to enjoy the richness of the rainforest without the fear of leeches. At every step I am met with a refreshing blanket of green in every imaginable shade. I stumble upon a cute little dusky leaf monkey with white rings around its eyes and a pink mouth, giving it a bewildered look, huge spiders hanging upside down, millipedes and colourful butterflies accompanied by a symphony of the rainforest — birdsong, the ringing cicadas, monkey calls and a bubbling brook.
But to really enjoy the wildlife in this rainforest you need the help of an expert.
For that, I put myself in the hands of The Datai’s resident naturalist, Irshad Mobarak, also known as the Jungle Walla. Clad in a ranger’s shorts, shirt and sandals, this cross between Tarzan, David Bellamy and David Attenborough addresses his audience like a professor imparting knowledge while his ears are peeled to every rustle in the leaves, every flutter in the trees. He points towards the skies to different mammals and birds, from the dusky leaf monkey (Trachypithecus obscurus) to the dollar bird, (Eurystomus orientalis), large green pigeon, (Treron capellei), Oriental pied hornbill (Anthracoceros albirostris) and delivers a short discourse on each of them.
Do you know there are 2,000 types of cicadas in the world and Malaysia has 150 species and 22 of them are in Langkawi?
As I tuck into my breakfast afterwards, I am reassured to know that Irshad and his fellow naturalists are keeping a watchful eye on developments on the island and their eco-tours will ensure man and nature continue to co-exist in a symbiotic relationship. With good food from three great restaurants, I am happy to pretend to be Robinson Crusoe marooned on this heavenly forest hideaway.
The Gulai House is a truly magical experience. Tucked away in the rainforest, you’d need a buggy to get there. I feel like Cinderella being whisked away to the ball. Indian and Malay dishes await me but what blows me away is the menu — written on a huge dried leaf picked off the forest floor and my name on a smaller one, indicating my seat. As I dab my forehead from the heat of the curry, I am comforted by a symphony of frog calls.
Just when you think you couldn’t eat anymore, the chef offers a more tantalising treat, finishing off with a wonderful, creamy sago pudding — how did he know it was my favourite? And before the clock strikes 12, I am deposited in my villa and in the morning I wonder if it was just a dream.
The Pavillion, near the swimming pool, nestling on the edge of the forest serves authentic Thai cuisine while you watch the wildlife antics like flying squirrels and dusky leaf monkeys.
You can learn to prepare these wonderful dishes. The beach club offers fine dining on the beachfront but the chef can also rustle up a decent char koay teow, which is just what you need when you’re staring at the sunny white beach while the gentle breeze blows in from the sea.
The Datai bay is a picture postcard sandy beach with fluffy white clouds, blue sky and turquoise sea, its tranquillity guaranteed by the absence of motorised water sports. But you can still have fun with a catamaran or kayak trip to secluded islands for snorkelling. But for me, lazing on a lounger under a tree, watching the crabs making sandball is activity enough.
TANJUNG RHU
If at The Datai I found a rainforest paradise, at Tanjung Rhu Resort, I find an oasis of tranquillity. A charming young lady checks me in while I sip a fruit cocktail she has prepared while I freshen up. Then I am whisked away to my room, which seems to be a glory in wood.
The 445ha grounds are beautifully broken up with water features from ponds to pools to suit all tastes, be it the family, a seasoned swimmer doing laps or a romantic couple looking for a quiet moment together. All this and a white beach that stretches for 2.5 kilometres interspersed with patches of casuarina trees.
Stone, wood, greenery and water complement each other to give guests peace and tranquillity. Non-motorised water sports, from hydrobike, catamaran, kayaking and wind surfing ensure guests can still have fun without disrupting the tranquillity of the bay and the mangrove swamp.
Restaurants provide cuisine from local to international fine dining and beach food. Saffron restaurant, with its stunning view of the sea, is ideal for a romantic dinner while you watch the spectacular sunset. Sands restaurant is by the pool.
Breakfast is lavish and so beautifully laid out you feel guilty messing up the display — beautiful selections of sushi, dainty Danish pastries, imaginative combinations of mixed fruit juices, local delights like roti canai made to order and a quality service that makes you feel like royalty.
Tanjung Rhu Resort is within the Kilim Karst Geoforest, with dramatic limestone structures and caves, not to mention a mangrove forest, which supports an abundance of wildlife. With the expert guide and sharp eyes of resident naturalist, Zoher Mustan, I spot the brahminy kite (Haliastur indus), white bellied eagle (Haliaeetus leucogaster), a viper and a colony of macaques. I also learn about the propagation of mangrove spears and am pleased to have planted one myself.
As I reluctantly leave Tanjung Rhu Resort it is not the number of stars to its name or its numerous Trip Advisor excellent votes that is in implanted my mind but the peace and tranquillity it represents and above all, the abundance of genuine, sincere smiles from its staff, which no number of stars can guarantee.