WITH their vibrant bouquets of hornbill feathers, the Kayan hornbill dancers glide across the stage, their movements so graceful they seem to soar through the air alongside the mythical and majestic hornbills.
As they dance, they transport the audience on a captivating journey, weaving a tapestry of rich heritage and vivid tradition. The dancers' mesmerising presence not only honours their proud cultural legacy, but also envelops the audience in an immersive and transformative experience into their Kayan heritage and traditions.
KAYAN CULTURAL FESTIVAL
I was recently invited to attend the inaugural Kayan Cultural Festival in Miri. It was declared open by YB Datuk Dennis Ngau, the affable president of the Kayan association of Sarawak and chairman of the Sarawak Tourism Board. The guests were treated to a wide variety of programmes, showcasing a rich tapestry of Kayan cultural and traditional delights.
During the gala dinner, the organising chairman Tommy Raymond Jok enthused: "We're aiming to promote our culture and heritage... to elevate our community and to encourage our youngsters to develop their talents and confidence".
There were 500 guests that night at Meritz Hotel in Miri. It was an eye-opening experience as the different tribes came in their colourful traditional costumes complete with their headgear of hornbill feathers.
The highlight was the impromptu final item where all the guests swayed spontaneously to the Poco-Poco dance music on the floor. Judging by the smiles and hugs, it was apparent that everyone was enjoying themselves, cementing the Kayan Cultural Festival as a permanent landmark in Sarawak's social and cultural calendar.
BARAM REGATTA
The peace and harmony that now prevail among the diverse tribes of Sarawak are hard-earned and should never be taken for granted. In the past, inter-tribal warfare was common, as tribes fought fiercely over land and resources, with the victors claiming the heads of their enemies as trophies.
It wasn't until 1898, however, that Charles Hose, a British Resident under the Rajah Brooke government, successfully brought an end to this cycle of violence. He organised the Baram Peace Ceremony, a groundbreaking event designed to replace bloodshed with celebration. Tribes, dressed in their war regalia of leopard-skin feather coats, gathered for a spirited paddle boat race on the Baram River, creating an atmosphere of camaraderie and friendly competition.
At the close of this inaugural ceremony, the tribal chiefs made a historic agreement: "If a man breaks his peace, he shall lose his head." This agreement marked the beginning of what's now the Baram Regatta — an event that takes place bi-annually and continues to embody the enduring values of peace and unity in multitribal Sarawak and multiethnic Malaysia.
IMPROVEMENT IN LIFE
The Kayan community has reasons to be proud today as they have enjoyed a substantial improvement in their life and livelihood, thanks to a spate of projects and initiatives. They're blessed with dedicated leaders such as YB Datuk Dennis Ngau, a three-term state assembly representative of Telang Usan.
Serving his people runs deep in his vein, as he recalled during the gala dinner: "As a boy, I used to follow my father, a deputy ketua kampung (village head), in his charity and community work... I find it very meaningful".
Despite the smiles and high spirit at the dinner, there's an undercurrent of concerns facing the leaders of the Kayan community. As Ngau lamented: "The progress and developments have also brought with them some unexpected concerns and undesirable consequences."
During the same dinner, Nawan Luhat, a respected Pemancha leader of the Kayan tribe from Long Atip village, voiced his concerns: "Our young people are migrating to urban centres, reducing the population and vitality in their kampongs... weakening the traditional spirit and bond in our community".
The issue of urban migration is a common trend affecting many villages of the Kayans and neighbouring Kenyah tribe as they fall prey to the rapid pace of modernisation and commercialism in Sarawak.
Headman Lucia Paya Kalang, a respected female Kenyah leader and close relative of Kayan Pemancha Luhat, echoed similar concerns during our dinner: "We're trying hard to reverse this trend by initiating more agricultural and other projects to create jobs and inject vitality in the villages".
KAYANS AND KENYAHS
Living nearby together in the upper Baram region, the Kayan and Kenyah tribes are closely related, sharing blood and cultural ties through the centuries. Although the Kayan and Kenyah are minority tribes in Sarawak, they've produced many capable leaders for the state over the centuries. One such outstanding leader was Paramount Chief Temenggong Lawai Jau.
Born on Feb 18, 1894 to Kenyah Penghulu Jau Lawai and Paya Lah, an aristocrat of the Kayan Uma Pu origin, Lawai Jau's star shone brightly since birth. He was the only child among his siblings to have survived smallpox. During this darkest period of Sarawak history, thousands of his Kayan and Kenyah tribesmen and women succumbed to this terrible scourge.
Given his aristocratic background and upbringing, Lawai Jau was destined for greatness. His family's legacy of bravery and leadership inspired him to reach for greater heights since young. By age 20, Lawai Jau had already travelled with his headman-father around the whole Baram region as a representative, trader and a rhinoceros hunter, a task demanding great skill and immense courage.
At the age of 29, his parents arranged for him to marry Tijan Anyie, the beautiful daughter of a Kayan headman. It was a fitting match as his wife hailed from an aristocratic family who owned several birds' nest caves.
OPERATION SEMUT
The Japanese invasion of December 1941 brought immense upheaval and suffering to the people of Sarawak. In March 1945, an Allied mission led by Tom Harrison and seven commandos parachuted into Bario with a critical objective: to gather intelligence and sabotage Japanese facilities. This operation, known as Operation Semut, played a pivotal role in turning the tide of war against the Japanese in Sarawak during the final stages of World War 2.
Upon meeting Tom Harrison, Penghulu Lawai Jau rallied 700 native warriors to join the fight. With unwavering courage, he led his men in daring attacks, destroying Japanese boats and taking down soldiers despite facing a far superior enemy. His heroic efforts earned him the Member of the British Empire (MBE) award, a recognition of his indomitable bravery.
Lawai Jau's leadership and resolve were again tested in 1962, when he led his tribesmen to quell a group of rebels during the Brunei rebellion. For his swift and courageous actions, he was awarded the Queen's Medal for Chiefs (QMC) by the British government, further cementing his legacy as a fearless leader and protector of his people.
INCORRUPTIBLE LEADER
In 1950, Lawai's formidable leadership and capable management earned him a promotion to be Temenggong for the Baram region. It was a heavy responsibility as he now had to take charge of a greater region involving many other different tribes such as the Berawans, Kelabits, Lun Bawangs, Penans and others. However, he was more than equal to the task, expertly handling all the demands and complexities that came with it.
For centuries, the practice of owning slaves and engaging in drinking orgies was deeply embedded in the culture of many tribes. Tempted by bribes and material wealth, even Temenggong Lawai Jau faced the allure of these age-old customs.
Yet, with unwavering integrity and an unyielding spirit, he resolutely opposed these harmful practices. Despite facing significant resistance, Lawai Jau used his persuasive influence and strong character to put an end to these traditions, transforming his community with his vision.
Always mindful of his people's well-being, he led by example, introducing a range of initiatives in the Baram region. As Sarawak underwent rapid and profound changes in the post-war era, he urged his people to embrace more progressive and productive practices, steering them towards a brighter, more prosperous future.
MALAYSIA INDEPENDENCE
During the visit by the Cobbold Commission in April 1962, Temenggong Lawai Jau supported the merger to form Malaysia, but also earnestly voiced his concerns for his people's welfare. Convinced of the benefits, he travelled extensively throughout the Baram region to explain and persuade his people to accept the merger.
He also travelled overseas to learn new ideas and programmes to benefit his people. During his visit to Australia, Prime Minister Sir Robert Menzies aptly described him as the "Churchill of Sarawak".
Being a visionary leader, Temenggong Lawai Jau tirelessly campaigned to change the habits and mindset of his people by championing education as the key to successful reforms and future prosperity. As a result, a school was named in his honour in his home village of Long San in upper Baram.
As a vote of his authority and popularity, Temenggong Lawai Jau was appointed as the first chairman of the Baram council and senator by the Dewan Rakyat (House of Representatives). For his tireless contributions and achievements, he was awarded the Pingat Negara Bintang Sarawak in 1965, which carries the title of Datuk Seri.
LAWAI'S FINAL DAYS
When Temenggong Lawai Jau was diagnosed with cancer in his late 70s, he knew his end was near. But he remained calm and poised. As far as he was concerned, he wasn't about to die but to return to his ancestors.
Although he was feeling weak, he'd bravely force himself to receive visitors at his verandah. Grand-daughter Julianna Usun Kalang remembered: "Tun Jugah flew in his helicopter with some Pesaka leaders to see my grandfather". Another grand-daughter Theresa Ubong Nawan added: "Tun Jugah and my grandfather sobbed and hugged each other...it would be their last meeting".
With his lasting legacy of careful guidance and visionary leadership, Temenggong Lawai Jau had touched the lives of everyone in the Baram region and beyond. Befittingly, his friend Malcolm Macdonald, British commissioner-general for Southeast Asia, described him as: "A man of character, courage and vision... natural gifts of insight and wisdom ...a statesman."
With the strong foundation and positive mindset inspired by Temenggong Lawai Jau, the Kayan and Kenyah community can look forward to further progress and development in the future under capable leaders such as Datuk Anyi Ngau, Dennis Ngau, Gerawat Gala and Nawan Luhat.
The writer wishes to acknowledge and thank Amery Wang and Julianna Usun Kalang for their photos and James Ritchie for some references to his book 'The Legacy'.
Gary Lit Ying Loong is a retired academic from Nanyang Technological University (NTU) Singapore. He's presently a visiting professor to some universities in Asia and Europe. Reach him at garylit33@gmail.com.