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One of only two Msians ever to descend Kinabalu's 'devil's cauldron' tells his story

RANAU: During Sabah Parks' Appreciation Night earlier this year, Martin Moguring was among the retirees honoured for 42 years of dedicated service.

However, many people might not know about Martin's extraordinary story in his line of duty.

The honorary park warden is only one of two Malaysians who have ever completed the first full descent into the treacherous and awe-inspiring Low's Gully 26 years ago.

The 1,800m-deep gully beside Mount Kinabalu was described by its namesake, British explorer Sir Hugh Low as "a horrible abyss, a devil's cauldron of unimaginable depth."

This natural chasm, known locally as "Miniangkap," is a daunting gorge flanked by towering cliffs, reaching depths comparable to the height of Mount Everest and shrouded in mystery for much of the 20th century.

For nearly 150 years, its secrets remained undiscovered.

In 1994, a British Army team of 10 attempted to navigate Low's Gully.

While five emerged successfully, the other five went missing for 30 days, narrowly surviving.

This costly rescue led the Malaysian government to ban further explorations and inspired the 1997 television film "The Place of the Dead."

Martin explained that despite the grim outcome of the 1994 mission, the sketches and notes from that expedition were invaluable to his own journey.

Having started as a porter at age of 12 and becoming a ranger at 19, Martin said limited knowledge of the gully made many people to consider their exploration "a suicide quest."

In 1997, the British government requested another expedition, and Martin, along with fellow park ranger John Sangkig from Kota Marudu, volunteered.

As the then chief of Kinabalu Park's enforcement team and head of the mountain rescue squad, Martin, a father of three, felt it was his duty to participate.

"If we didn't do it, no one would know what lies in the gully, which is essential knowledge for conservation. Why could others do it, but we couldn't? So, I took on the challenge.

"For me, death can happen any time and anywhere, perhaps even the moment you step out of your house. My family did not object, knowing it was my duty," said Martin.

In November 1997, Martin and John underwent rigorous training in the Yorkshire Great Cave Systems in northern England, completing a four-day intensive course in technical climbing, abseiling, and rock climbing.

In March 1998, they joined the Low's Gully '98 Joint Malaysian-British expedition, led by Pat Gunson. The team started at Timpohon Gate on Mount Kinabalu and reached their exit point at Kampung Melangkap Kapa in Kota Belud after approximately two weeks.

Martin, deeply connected to Kadazandusun traditions, described the "Monolob" ritual performed by a bobolian (spiritual healer) at Panalaban to seek protection and permission for the team's journey.

"During the expedition, four members (Chips Rafferty, Kenneth Taylor, Mick Lomas, and Steve Long) descended through the Commando Cauldron, while John and I abseiled through Easy Valley.

"Once we reached the gully floor, we split into groups. John joined the support team while I stayed with the advance team (Latimer, Long and Anthony Gileer).

"Our responsibility was to secure safe routes by setting anchors and ropes," he said.

A walkie-talkie provided by Sabah Parks proved essential for Martin, especially when the British team's satellite phone unexpectedly failed.

Experts in caving and mountaineering described the expedition's dangers, highlighting the continuous rockfalls ranging from several centimetres to metres in size, capable of causing fatal injuries.

Only Taylor sustained a hand injury that forced him to withdraw.

Another major risk was the threat of sudden heavy rainfall that could transform the narrow gorge into a raging torrent.

Despite the dangers, Martin fondly remembers the gully's beauty.

"At Commando Cauldron, sunlight illuminated the gully's remarkable biodiversity. There were waterfalls and rock pools with exquisitely sculpted stones shaped by years of erosion."

"I had only seven cups of rice and salted fish from home, and I showed Simon Latimer how to eat wild yam, or 'Dukaruk' in Dusun, for sustenance."

"It's a memory that will likely remain my first and last," said Martin who was 35 and John 36 at that year, expressing regret that they did not have recording devices at the time.

The expedition, which officially ran from March 4 to March 16, was documented by the international filmmaker "Cicada Film".

Martin's jungle survival skills, especially his knowledge of edible plants and fire-making, earned praise from team members, particularly Latimer. 

Today, Martin continues advising adventurers interested in Low's Gully and encourages the younger generation to explore fearlessly. He even expressed a willingness to join another expedition if the opportunity arises.

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